20 Most Recent Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Setting a thermostat has nothing to do with outdoor temperature, but more to do with what is a comfortable setting for you and your utility bill.

A common misconception associated with thermostats is that a furnace works harder than normal to warm the space back to a comfortable temperature after the thermostat has been set back, resulting in little or no savings. This misconception has been dispelled by years of research and numerous studies. The fuel required to reheat a building to a comfortable temperature is roughly equal to the fuel saved as the building drops to the lower temperature. You save fuel between the time that the temperature stabilizes at the lower level and the next time heat is needed. So, the longer your house remains at the lower temperature, the more energy you save.

Another misconception is that the higher you raise a thermostat, the more heat the furnace will put out, or that the house will warm up faster if the thermostat is raised higher. Furnaces put out the same amount of heat no matter how high the thermostat is set; the variable is how long it must stay on to reach the set temperature.

In the winter, significant savings can be obtained by manually or automatically reducing your thermostat's temperature setting for as little as four hours per day. These savings can be attributed to a building's heat loss in the winter, which depends greatly on the difference between the inside and outside temperatures. For example, if you set the temperature back on your thermostat for an entire night, your energy savings will be substantial. By turning your thermostat back 10 to 15 degrees for 8 hours, you can save about 5 to 15 percent a year on your heating bill -- a savings of as much as 1 percent for each degree if the setback period is eight hours long.
Hope this helps..........

Is the inducer motor running?

remove burners and dump out rust and dust then put burners back in and restart gas preassure in burners blocking burner ports with rust and dust

water in pressure switch take rubber hose off and drain see if water in induced draft motor that hose hooks to may need a cap on roof pipe to stop water from getting into furnice c lear all water and dry out

The limit switch is a credit card size shaped switch right behind the burners which has two wires attached to it. This switch will trip if the Furnace is overheating, this can be causes by a weak blower motor, dirty air filter, dirty blower wheel....anything that restricts airflow.

Can you verify if the igniter is receiving 120 volts?

Sounds like your flame sensor is dirty or it could be bad.

Check if 24 volts is being sent from the board to the gas valve, if not the board is nad and will need to be replaced, if there is 24 volts at the gas vlave terminals then the gas valve must be replaced.

Hi go to www,valor.co.uk you and request manuals on line with the coal seting in

must have proper gauges and should be done by trained person only.

gas pres checking should be done by trained person with proper guages

The flame rollouts are located in the burner compartment and attached to the sides or top of the metal housing around the actual burners. They are small and round and have 2 wires hooked to them. They are there for safety to detect if the flame is rolling out of the heat exchanger, caused by other possible issues. However, sometimes they do go bad and have to be replaced. Also, your rollouts are ran in series with the limits and may also be that. The only way to track it down is to have a meter that measures continuity and after the unit stops working, see which device you lost current through. Bypassing these can be harmful and cause major problems so I do not recommend it. One thing you can try is to make sure all filters are clean and the air flow throughout the house is "normal". These can cause the unit to overheat and trip one of the limit switches that I mentioned earlier. I also do not recommend watching if the flame is coming out of the heat exchanger causing a rollout to trip, but if it is, you could have a blocked flue pipe or other issues. I hope this helps or at least points you in the right direction. Good luck and happy holidays!

Black- high speed Red- low speed Blue- med. high Yellow- med. low White- neutral Usually black on "cool" terminal on board, red on "heat" terminal on board, and remaining 2 on the "park" terminals on board. White goes to the neutral terminals. Hope this helps!

If you have 24v going to the leads on the control board and all connections are tight, your board is bad and will have to be replaced.

You will put the red wire from the blower on the terminal marked "heat" on the control board. Black= high speed Red= low speed Yellow/Blue = med low/ med high Hope this helps!

Hello, hot lead must be attached to the brass terminal. The neutral must be attached to the silver terminal.

Have you seen this video:
Furnace ignition 101 If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61