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M-Audio Axiom 25 G2 USB MIDI Controller Questions & Answers
It works sometimes but mostly
For anyone who still has this issue including above morris_gray,I've encountered this myself with my first generation M-Audio Axiom 25 USB MIDI Controller plugged into a MacBook using GarageBand (G2 apparently has identical malfunction).It should be noted that I never installed any type of software for the device, that came with the device. I simply wanted a controller for GarageBand, and I will also note that it has worked flawlessly for about 4 years on this setup, until about a week ago...I'll provide what information I have gathered about the blank LCD screen issue as well as the controller simply not functioning correctly as listed below:The most common way people test/fix this is to "hard reset":- turn controller off (assuming you've kept the usb cable connected to your computer)- hold down both the + and - buttons directly below the lcd, and simply turn the power on. Some numbers should appear on the lcd soon after the reboot and you are okay to release said buttons...I've read testimonials, watched videos of people doing this and successfully getting their device back in action, though the reset will default anything you have saved for the device.Sadly, this did not work on mine. I've tried several different cables- in several different usb ports- on several different computers (as suggested by M-Audio on their support page. I still get a lit up but blank lcd. I've even tried to still use it but only some awful noises come out and nearly every function just makes the thing freak out and it becomes silent/unusable/useless. M-Audio suggests sending it back to them for fixing at this point.Because I've had my Axiom 25 Gen. 1 for so long and I have never installed anything what so ever that came in the box, and have little faith that M-Audio will replace mine, I will most likely try to take it apart and mess around with the electronics inside as it's just a big paperweight now. I did read that in the Gen. 1's the blank lcd could be a result of a chip gone wrong, so to speak... Gen. 2's had some type of "grounding" issue that resulted in the blank lcd and such.I hope this helps anyone, if I stumble upon a way to fix this through my own curiosity I will inform the masses...I'll be on the hunt for a new controller most likely and it probably wont be an M-Audio...not that I'm upset with the product, it lasted me quite a while and I've made a lot of solid songs/music with it, but rather I feel the need for something different and maybe a little more sturdy that can actually be a synthesizer on its own, not just a controller.- Christoffer
How do you do a
Hold down the LOAD and SAVE buttons while powering on the Axiom will do a hard reset. This will erase any presets you've set up and restore the Axiom to the factory defaults.
Hope this helps,
Stewart
M-Audio controller. How do I fix a loose sub port?
I just had the same issue. The temporary fix I used worked for 2 years. I just stuck a small paper clip or safety pin in the corner of the port, and then plug the cable in. If those are too big just use something you can use to make the plug fit tight.
It finally stopped worked a couple of weeks ago, so I just bought a new USB port at an electronic store for $1.50 and soldered it on. I had to buy flux which was $3.00.
$5 and an hour of time after squeezing 2 extra years with paper clips. Priceless.
Just make sure you have a cold beer to solder with. Sticking drinks in a freezer wrapped in a wetpaper towel for 15 minutes is like a reverse microwave for beer.
Keep losing midi connection to laptop.
If your just using as a controller don't set the output. You only need to set the input.
Make sure the channel your using is armed as well. The button below mute & solo will be red if it is.
I'm using an oxygen 49
There are several reasons why this could be happening, assuming it's Windows, not MAC.
-Check to make sure the OUT port isn't set. You only need IN for basic controller use.
- Make sure the channel your using is armed (button below Solo & Mute should be red) [this is the most likely problem]
Another problem is the USB power settings in Windows. The default is set to allow the Computer to monitor and turn off USB ports automatically to save power. But it doesn't turn them back on automatically. You'll want change these settings regardless to help reduce latency issues.
-Go to Device Manager> USB Controllers> double click & change power settings to OFF for all Root Hubs.
Here is a guide to help optimize Windows to lessen Latency, Dropouts and Clicks /Pops. It's for Studio One, but the settings are the same for Windows.
You might want to give Studio One a try. I've used everything and by far Studio One is the easiest with the least issues. The free version is better than most DAWS paid versions. It can definitely help eliminate a lot of the everyday headaches that come with using Abelton, Cubase, Protools and even FruityLoops (which is pretty gay anyway).
M-Audio is also notorious for USB hardware related issues. A lot of times I find it turns out to be a bad connection between the plug and keyboard port, which tends to wear after awhile. It can go unnoticed because it still fits tight enough to get power, but not enough to keep the board fully functional.
Hope this helps.
-
Peavey cs1000 x
The most likely case is that one of the main output transistors (if which there are many) is shorted. When the protect circuit senses DC on the final output, it will not allow the output relay to come on to protect the speakers from raw DC. With the power removed, you can check between each outputs Emitter and Collector and you will probably find close to zero ohms. From that point you need to unsolder each of the pins of the bad channel until you find the shorted device(s) and replace them.
2/7/2024 9:32:20 AM •
Music
•
Answered
on Feb 07, 2024
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