Top 10 Hitachi 53UWX10B 53" Rear Projection Television Questions & Answers

Hitachi has created a repair kit part# X480293 for this problem. It includes: (2)STK392-150 convergence ic's,resistors RK42 = 3.3 ohms,RK46 = 1.8 ohms,RK50 = 2.7 ohms,RK54 = 1.5 ohms,RK58 = 3.9 ohms,RK62 = 2.2 ohms,all 1 watt resistors.

Try hooking it up with whatever cable it came with. We have this same t.v. and also have our Wii hooked up to it and have no problems whatsoever.

im thinking you blew the chips again, i would use sanyo chips from mcm not cheap ones
This is a list of most of the commonly used STK devices and some that Sanyo made that are rarely, if ever, used. I will add links to the data sheets that I have, but some of them are not available. Some of the chips are versions made for a particular TV manufacturer, and Sanyo does not provide data on those, typically. It is generally best to use the same chip that is found in the set. However, there have been newer versions of some of these produced that are identical in performance and superior in certain applications. I will note my recommendations and the logic behind them, but I in no way, nor does HTS, take any responsibility for the accuracy of the information with regard to substitution of parts. Any substitution is your responsibility. I can only relate what I have found to work with parts that I know to be original Sanyo parts.


STK4273 replace with STK4274 if heat sink allows
STK4274
STK4275
STK4278

STK391-110
STK391-120
STK391-220

STK392-010 replace with STK392-040
STK392-020 replace with STK392-040
***The -040 has wider bandwidth and has higher current rating than the -010 and -020. I use in ALL cases to replace the older versions.

STK392-040
STK392-560
STK392-570

STK392-110 replace with STK394-160
STK392-120 Hitachi replaces these with STK394-160, for other sets it may not be a good sub. They have been fine in the Philips sets so far.
STK392-150 replace with STK394-160
***The 394 series replaced the 392 series and is cooler running. The subs listed here are the ones that I know to work in most sets.

STK392-180
STK392-210
STK392-220

STK393-110

STK394-160 (This is my choice to replace the STK392-110, -120, & -150 in most sets and are available in the Hitachi kits in the next post)
STK394-210
STK394-250
STK392-260
STK394-510

Suffixes
-L means bent pins for horizontal mounting
-E means lead free
-HIC in Mitsubishi parts simply means that it is an IC on a heat sink and is irrelevant to buying parts.

about 450.00 or more compared to about 50 if you do the repair yourself. Which takes about an hour from start to finish. I can post a link that sells the new ICs and gives free installation instructions and on line tech support so you can easially do it yourself. If you would like the link to the site, please let me know

You didn't say how old the set was and how much it's used, but the shadows you're describing sound like a bad green picture tube.

Hope that helps...

Geno

Hello hocusfocus,

I posted this before, but it fits your problem too, so here goes:

You have a convergence amplifier problem. This is a common problem in these types of televisions. The fix for this problem is to replace the two convergence amplifiers in your tv. These amplifiers usually go bad along with the associated bias resistors. I would suggest that if you are going to do this yourself you should use only the manufacture recommended replacement parts. There are many who will tell you to upgrade the amplifiers, but my experiences have told me this is more trouble then it is worth, if you don't plan on redesigning the circuit itself. So with that being said, here is the basic procedure:

1) Get a schematic for your set (to be used in parts location and alignment instruction)

2) Using the Schematic locate the STK329-xxx or STK392-xxx series amplifiers (They are the two large six sided components attached to a large heat sink on the deflection board)

3) unplug the TV set

4) remove the deflection board from the TV set

5) using a soldering gun or iron with either a de-soldering pump or de-soldering braid remove the solder from the pins of the amplifiers and the associative biasing resistors.

6) remove the amplifiers from the heat sink and clean the heat sink off with alcohol or a solvent designed for removing the silicon paste.

7) coat the metal plate of the new amplifiers with heat sink paste and install them on to the heat sink.

8) install the associative biasing resistors

9) solder all of the components, making sure not to create solder bridges (short circuits) on the printed circuit board.

10) inspect the soldering job for bridges and cold solder joints (touching the joins up if they are cold)

11) reinstall the board to the television (reconnecting all cables removed.

12) power up the TV and perform the alignment instructions in the schematic

13) set the alignment of the TV

14) perform the magic focus setup

This should complete this task.

Now if you feel that you can not do these tasks, please consult a qualified TV technician about doing this for you.

I hope this helps

Thank you,

Shuttle83

http://www.electron-age-technologies-llc.com

Try resoldering the pins on the ICs first. If that fails to resolve the problem, change the IC responsible for RED. You should be able to determine that from the service manual. In that area you should also see either fuses or low valued resistors that feed the STKs. Check those as well.

Let me know if you need further info.

Dan

I know this set very well---you are saying convergence adjusts ok everywhere? If you understand that the blue is usually de-focused a little----there are only two ways to adjust the focus of each tube-----

1.) Behind the front speaker grill there is an inspection plate---with it removed you will see a small black plastic block with 6 controls on it; it is the MASTER SCREEN/ FOCUS BLOCK

2.) THREE of the controls left to right are Screen controls(red, green and blue) and the other 3 are FOCUS--IT IS ALL black and you need to look close to identify which is focus and which is screen---you are looking for the BLUE focus control(one of the 6)

3.) With the convergence grid on screen cover the RED and GREEN lens in the set and try to adjust the focus of the blue(I presume you know how to put the set into the Convergence mode?

4.) The only other way to adjust the Blue focus is from the back of the set---with the Red and Green lens covered up place a blanket over the top of the set that covers the whole screen--from the back of the set you will note that all three of the black focal lens have a wing nut---with the convergence grid up and only blue lines present(Green and Red lens covered with a cloth) look from behind the set at the grid---loosen the wing nut on the blue lens and slowly slide the lens left or right until the blue has the best focus possible----if it will not adjust with the focal lens or the front focus control you have a circuit problem.

I do this here for free and if this information helps you take a minute and give me a vote here. If you have any questions or need advice reply to this posting here and I will assist you.

SD TECH

If it is 53uwx10B:

RK42 2.2 OHM 1 WATT
RK46 1.5 OHM 1 WATT
RK50 2.2 OHM 1 WATT
RK54 1.5 OHM 1 WATT
RK58 2.7 OHM 1 WATT
RK62 1.8 OHM 1 WATT


Double check the numbers on the STK chips as most of these sets use STK-392-110 OR 392-150 CHIPS-----ONLY A FEW OTHER MODELS(MOST 43 INCH USE THE 120 CHIP.)


I do this here for free so if this helps you take just a minute and give me a vote here.

If you have any questions or need help reply to this posting here--I am here to help people.

REGARDS, SD TECH

my hitachi projection tv 53uwx10b screen is black with no sound or picture when the power button is on