Top 10 JVC AV-48WP30 48" Rear Projection Television Questions & Answers

You need to replace the convergence IC's

We had the exact same problem just yesterday when we bought our Sony 46" Bravia LCD. Nobody, neither Comcast Cable or Sony seemed to really know how to get rid of the closed caption at first and we did have a Motorola box - the box is the problem, not the tv. Here is step-by-step instructions that worked for us. 1. While TV is on, power DCT (Digital Cable Terminal) off 2. Press and hold "menu" button on digital terminal (the screen below will appear) 3. Using Up/Down cursors, highlight "Close Caption" 4. Using Left/Right cursors, put - Close Caption: Disabled 5. Press "ok-select" 6. When done, press "power" to exit menu 7. Press "power" again to turn DCT on If you go through these steps slowly, you should have a caption-free screen!

Solution #2 posted on Feb 04, 2008
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Hi

I replaced the 2.2s one watt resistor. It is little beter then before but red color is still out of convergence. The convergence output ic's are back order for 2 months. Buy the way I wants to check the filter capicitor in the verticle and horizontal cct. I guess it is C 615 (25v 2200mfd) If it is not please guide me to the right capacitor. Thanks


Sam

this is the raw research for this that I have found. It seems like the most likely culprit for this is the stk chips on the convergence board (JVC didn't put nearly enough heat sink compound on should be a small layer all the way across they put on a couple dabs) I hear tale you can check this out by disconnecting the convergence board and turning on the set . only go after the convergence board from the front (behind the speaker grill is another panel, the convergence card is right behind there) there is a sneak circuit which will kick in possibly destroying at least the dvi input and mabie more if the set is powered on with the back removed and you didn't put a jumper in the right place or cover over a hole in the back of the dvi module (supposidly to keep people from hacking movies, like there arn't easier ways to do that if you really wanted to). if that doesnt fix it then I have found several other possibilities but I am now a few hundred miles from the tv that I was working on so havent had a chance to try this out:
No. The CRT driver ICs are prone to shorting and cause this symptom (I just had one with those very symptoms and the green CRT driver IC was shorted). Disconnecting the CRT board does not clear the short on the board. Often then is a small burn mark on the CRT board under the affected IC (but not always). The IC should be a TDA6111Q. Be sure to note the proper position
of the IC as it should face with the letters TOWARD the heat sink!!!!

Larry, Check the CRT driver ICs on each of the CRT boards.
Bob Waterman, CET® #RI-28
Master Technician License #9109
Service Manager / Parts Manager
Gemini Computer, TV, & Security Alarms
(508)695-7302
(508)695-7769 FAX
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Hi Guys, I don`t see many JVC`s and don`t have the print for this AV48WP30, went out this morning and as customer claimed on phone when you plug set in and turn on it makes a loud thump thump in both speakers 20-30 times then relay clicks, the thump stops, and blue idiot light on front goes dim/bright, dim/bright, have to unplug set to start this same scenario over again. Never develops HV or audio, Will order the service manual today, but would like to know if anyone has seen this before (should say "heard" this before)
I would disconnect each crt board and hv lead one at a time and try. Have seen several bad tubes on that model. The only other problem I have seen on that set is bad convergence amps, however that doesn't cause shutdown.
Perry Bower
Electric Medic
From Tech Repair CD:
JVC\AV48WP74\just went click*click*click when turned on Video drive IC (IC1101) on the red CRT module
shorted. It looked like bad solder on the B+ was the cause

Frequently Used Top Five Repair Parts by symptom code
MODEL NUMBER : AV48WP30 - TV
SYMPTOM CODE : DEAD
TOP FIVE PARTS :
2SC5552-RL
2SC5904-RL
QQH0113-002
STR-F6629B/F7
STK392-110
Above from JVC Web site, also I have seen shorted video drive IC's on the crt boards short and cause this symptom. Try unplugging the 200 volt source to the crt boards and see it the set powers up and stays on. There is a B+ relay which supplies 130 Volts to the horizontal output circuit. Is this relay energizing? I takes about five seconds after the power is turned on for it to energize. If a short is detected on the 130 volt line the blue power lamp on the front will do what you describe and the relay will pulse on and off. (David)

Symptom:
Non-functional Digital Input
Solution:
1. Power off the unit
2. Disconnect the digital input if it is connected
3. Remove the rear cover
4. On the digital input module, using a shorting pin (PC type) or a
jumper, short Pin 1 and Pin 2 of the
SB connector
5. Power on the unit
6. Unplug the unit and remove the shorting pin or the jumper
7. Re-attach the unit’s rear cover
8. Power on the unit, and input the digital source

http://www.amazon.com/JVC-AV-48WP30-Widescreen-HDTV-Ready-Rear-Projection/dp/B000066R7X

Cut and paste this link. Amazon's page has a link to the JVC manual. That'll tell you what you need to know

1. if the 1.5 ohm resistor was open, then you may have fried your new convergence ic's. Sorry
2. bettween a 1.5 - 1.9 ohm resistor will work
3. press sleep button, set to 30
hold down video status button and press display on remote
select convergence from the new menu and hit OK.
Do fix the convergence before you try to align the convergence or it will look horrible after you get the circuit fixed and will be harder to align.

The white button is there because the DCU (digital convergence unit) can be erased by holding that button and turning the set on.
I WOULD NOT RECOMEND THAT AT ALL!!!!!!!!!!!

Hope this Helps.

You will need 2 new convergence ICs STK392-110 also the 1.8 ohm resistor and the pico fuse usually burn with that model. the ICs are located on the small board located behind the speaker grille and access panel in front. Easy repair go to the following link and you can get replacement ICs and any other part you need. And they provide installation instructions as well as free on line instant meassaging for all customers when they do thier actual repair. Heres the link.
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/

I had this problem, I just fixed it myself. I'm am not a tech or a pro by any means, but I am short on funds and repairs were not in the budget. I figured I had nothing to lose so I wanted to share what I did and maybe help someone out. This is to be done at your own risk, you could shock yourself or break something else.
First off, I had the conversion circuit changed a few years back. These TVs are famous for them going out, so I knew it wasn't that.
I removed the back of the TV and the plastic part that houses' the connections (RCA jacks, S-video,etc) Behind that there is a circuit board standing vertitcally incased in a metal case. I simply wiggled it back and forth and the lines went away. That told me that something was going on there.
I removed the circuit board that had the RCA jacks to make some room( I would'nt force anything in there, take your time and be sure to unclip the circuit board) I then unscrewed the "metal case" and took it apart. I dusted everything and put it back together exactlly how I took it apart. I then cleaned the lenes.
It works great now and it only cost me a hour of my time. The picture is as good as new. I hope this helps somebody.

on the 48WP30, you get to the convergence board through the front. Around the back edge of the speaker grille are four screws. You remove these screws. Then you remove the two other screws at the top of the speaker grille near the center panel underneath the front av input door.




THen after you get the speaker grille off, you take the four screws out of the wood panel door and take it off:



Those two big black heat sinks on the front there are your SK chips...on the convergence board of course. pop it up from those four tabs, and that will let you carefully move the convergence board so that you can reach in better, and unhook the three plugs on the right side (looking at it from the heat-sink side) behind the heatsinks (one for red, green, and blue each) and then on the other side of the board, you disconnect the other two plugs, but there's one that you actually have to trace back into the inside of the TV and unplug from a vertical standing board, since the socket is not on the convergence board itself. let me draw up a little graphic real quick.



Hope that helps.

go to www.sears.com parts dept have make and model ready!
This should fix ya!