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JVC SP-PW100 Subwoofer Questions & Answers
JVC Subwoofer problem.
You may have a break in the wire. You can find out by slowing moving your fingers down the wire until you notice sound coming from the subwoofer. You can fix it yourself by cutting about an inch away from the break both ways. Then cuttings some of the wire off, so the copperwire is exposed. then wrap the two copperwire ends together and seal it with elections tape. or Try replacing the 60 watt subwoofer wire.
JVC SP-PWA-235 has one input
The 3 RCA type connectors (red, white,black) are all pre-amp outputs, not inputs. (Cut the girl some slack) the black is for the subwoofer. The red and white are pre-amp outputs for either up converting from a 5.1 to a 7.1 system, or for running a X.2 (2 subwoofers L &R). If you are running 2 subs, be sure on one of them to reverse the polarity.
JVC Surround Sound System
The click will be a relay to protect the main amp overloading. In many ways you are driving the amp to hard, unless there is a fault on the main amp which means it can't take the full load that it should handle. One cause of this for example would be a speaker that is either the wrong ohms, or of a lower wattage than what the amp can put out. Or in some cases a faulty speaker, or if the wiring is not good shorts when the speaker shakes when a very loud noise comes from it.
Things to check:
1 That no speaker is lower ohms than the amp.
2 That no speaker is lower in watts (RMS) than the amps total output for that channel it is on. Remember not all surround amps have the same volume on each channel.
It is of course possible to use smaller wattage speakers. But if you have an amp that can output say 200w. Connecting an 80w speaker to it would really limit the amount the volume control could be raised to.
3 Each speaker is working right. Plus all connections are neat with NO possibility of shorting.
If all of these are good then you have a fault on the main power amp. Probably one or more of the output device(s)
Which model sub woofer can replace JVC SP-PW100?
The simplest thing would be a like-for-like replacement. Ebay or Craigslist would be good sources if the sub is out of production. There's one listed on Ebay UK for 39 sterilng. Item number 171423774447 - ends 16th Sept 2014
For new replacements the answer depends partly on how you connect and then partly on where you live. I'll deal with connections first...
The JVC has both high-level -speaker cable sockets- and low-level -phono/RCA- connections. Budget subs with both sets are getting rarer in the UK.
If you are connecting from an AV receiver with the low-level phono cable then the Tannoy SFX sub would do quite nicely. It's 99 sterilng at Richersounds.
For a sub with high and low level connections then the Wharfedale Diamond sub is about the cheapest in wide distribution. 170 sterilng at Tesco, 150 sterilng as an open box special at Superfi. Personally though, if I were considering spending 150+ on a sub I'd go the extra mile and plump for the BK Gemini at 215 sterilng direct from the manufacturer. You're getting 300+ sterilng performance because they cut out the middleman.
If you live in the US then there's a bit more choice. Have a look at Bestbuy. The Pioneer SW 8mk2 isn't bad at 159 dollars. There's the Theater Solutions SUB6F at 88 dollars if you just want cheap. Respected speakers brand Polk has the PSW 108 at 199 dollars
The subwoofer SP-PWM505 won't turn on.
Make sure its not set to Auto. Also check for a fuse in the back. Unplug the amp side and with the sub plugged in touch the RCA. You should hear noise from sub. Try this last. Some may say this is not good for the sub. Im in the business and never have seen it cause a problem
Voices coming out of the subwoofer
Hi Darren,True subwoofers of actual operating design are not meant to carry signal frequency that will reach into the range required to play back human voice, in the 400-500Hz range it becomes audibly recognizable as human mediated. Down to even around 80Hz there are some fundamentals of the human voice frequency range that your system would play back, but you shouldn't be able to hear it separately when all is working properly.Since you are hearing this noise and are able to recognize what it is, I'm going to assume two things;1. It's frequency is high enough to be intelligible as human voice2. It is NOT from any source that you are trying to play through it, so it is likely coming from RFI; or radio frequency interference. Likely source of that is from police scanners and CB radios in your area.My second assumption is based solely on the fact of how in systems such as yours, bass management circuitry works. Noise from an outside source will bypass that circuitry. Intended sources such as what you have plugged into the system will run through that circuitry and you'd hear it through the satellite speakers instead of how you're hearing it right now.There are several ways solving this problem, starting with the free and simple ones first is always best.Power source. Plug it into an outlet on a different circuit. Finding an alternate circuit is easy; go to your electrical switch panel and turn off one switch at a time starting with the switch that controls the outlet power to your current connection. If it turns off but then you still have another device in the same room that has power, plug it into the same outlet for THAT device. The general idea is to get your electronics isolated from circuits that have such devices powered on it like fluorescent lighting, refrigerators, freezers, microwaves, fans, cathode ray-tube (old) TV's or anything with an electric motor in it especially.If moving it does not provide satisfaction, I recommend an AC line power conditioner with noise suppression like from Tripplite, plus a series of what is called ferrite clamps. Both of these items can be found at Radioshack. Place the ferrite clamps on the power cord of your system. Keep in mind the diameter of the cord size when choosing your clamp design; if the clamp is not tight it will not work. You can also place these clamps on any device in your home circuit that would PRODUCE the noise and introduce it back into the circuit for your system to pick up. So if for example, your ferrite clamp would fit better on the power cord of the only device in the circuit that may pick up the RFI and pass it to your JVC system, then try it out. It usually takes more than one clamp in series on a single power cord for higher powered items though.
JVC Surround Sound System HDCP error message
HDCP...high definition copyright protection.This means that one of two things have happened;1) The connection method you used for video from the player to your monitor does not support the decoding of media that is copyright protected such as the Blu-ray format, or;2) The media you are using is not a valid original recording.As of yet, the only video connection available that supports the HDCP decoded signal is HDMI. Component video is capable of even greater resolution than HDMI but manufacturers haven't made a way of implementing it's use for copyright protected digital signals. However not ALL Blu-ray or HD-DVD media are copyright protected, that is completely dependent on individual title in which case a component video connection will work.
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