Xterra Fitness UB1.5 Upright Bike" - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I have taken bikes to Thrift Shops (Value Village, etc.), and to recycling depots when they have provisions to donate them to various charities. In my area, migrant farm workers often get them. I think this info depends on your geographic area.

If it's a quill stem, you have to loosen the bolt at the top of the stem, and then tap it (the bolt) with a hammer to release it. There will be a line on the stem portion that goes into the head tube of the bike that tells you how high the stem can safely go. You will likely get to this maximum setting before the cables are stressed. Tightening the stem back in the head tube is just aligning it and then using the wrench again. There are Park Tools videos (and others) on Youtube that show this procedure, and cable replacement, if you need it.

Follow this link: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/retroraleighs/dating.html You will need to know the serial number of the bike, and this is also explained on this website.

Ancheer support page: SUPPORT I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/donald_f2ed37026a3ac881

Go to the following link and scroll down to the "Threadless Stems" section to see your options: https://www.centurycycles.com/tips/tech-talk-how-to-raise-your-handlebars-pg1445.htm

First, some terminology - the small cogs in the back are the higher gears. They will take you farther per pedal revolution, but not necessarily faster, as it's hard to pedal the high gears as fast. As far as your problem there are multiple causes. The most common is friction in the shift cable. The rear derailleur shifts to the small cogs with spring pressure when you move the shift lever. It won't move well if the cable is binding. The second commone cause is the derailleur being bent inward from the bike falling on the right side. That will also cause the derailleur to move too far when shifting to the large cog in the rear - a very expensive problem if it goes into the spokes. The least common problem is misadjustment. ALL of the fixes must be done properly. The best option if available is to get help at a bike co-op or from a knowledgable friend. Otherwise take it to a shop for diagnosis and repair.

You might need to have your wheel replaced. If you take it to a shop they can use your old gears and tire. This well help cut the price. What is the nature of the problem?

try pressing all the buttons at the same time or one from either side at the same time. Have you removed the battery and replaced it? Look to see if it has a reset button on the back of the unit.

Impossible to tell with the info given. Serial numbers are not very useful in ID'ing a bike. If there's no 'head badge" on the front of the frame or model name on the side it's unlikely to be worth much. If you are still interested you need to post multiple pictures on a site that specializes in antique and collectible bikes, such as: https://thecabe.com/forum

Google "roadster trike" to find who sells the unit (Wallmart, Target, etc.) then, call a local store and ask them for help.

Move the shift lever while pedaling! Seriously, can't you just ask someone in person for help? See if there's a bike co-op or public workshop in your community.

Depends on what type of handlebar stem comes on your model. Just Google "raise bike handlebar" and check results for a page that helps you.

1. No idea what a Marine bike is. 2. Rarely possible to ID a bike by serial number alone 3. Rarely important what year a bike is unless it's a highly sought after collectible/antique (very unlikely) 4. It's helpful when asking for info to include what you hope to gain by it.

Just contact the manufacturer!: https://support.thule.com/hc/en-us/requests/new

First, it's very rare to be able to ID any bike by serial number. Secondly, if there is no brand or model name showing the bike is either stolen or the victim of a cheap paint job - or both. It has no value other than as something you can ride. Parts and repair procedures are pretty much universal.

Really? Just Google "sb 318 bicycle computer manual" Downloads, videos galore.

Did it occur to you to just Google "yellow jay miron hydramadic 20" trick bike"? Doing so pretty quickly shows that it is apparently a 1998 model.

It is very seldom possible to ID a bike by serial number alone, and you absolutely do not need to do so for replacement parts or repair procedures. Also, if there's no brand or model on the bike it has no significant value. Take to a bike shop or bike co-op for help.

wrench

"Type of bike" is not clear, but in any case that is not the info you need. If you only need the ball bearings the headset bearings are typically 3/16" or 5/32". Crank bearings for most bikes are 1/4", but one piece cranks need caged bearings. Many modern bikes have sealed crank bearings you replace the entire assembly. We need a brand/model and/or a pic of the crank area or the disassembled pieces. It's also important that you use the proper procedure to disassemble, reassemble and adjust the parts.