20 Most Recent Samson Auro D415 - 2-Way Active Speaker Speaker Enclosure Questions & Answers

Hi. I'm fixing my Speaker there are smd transistors that are faulty, I can't see number for it to replace

Ok. First, check your power supply voltages....then check IC2 for correct voltages and also check C9 ,C17 for ESR...clip signal can come from either woofer or horn circuits...lift one end of R19 in the preamp ckt....this will break the woofer signal and see if the light goes out...if it does, look for issues with the pre-amp after it seperates the hi and low signals...if not, then look for problens in the horn circutry.....and get a schematic....it will make it so much easier....good luck....

Check only one active speaker at the mixer output and report the results.
Connect only one of the audio inputs from the power amp at the mixer output (and the passive speakers at the output) and report the results.
Sometimes (in parallel connections) there are interferences from the volume controls.

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You can cut the treble gain some BUT most importantly is to send adequate signal to this speaker so volume level does not have to be set high when sending LINE LEVEL signals to it. Hissing noise is a product of the statistical noise that occurs in electronics. Running any device at high gain invariably brings up the hiss level. Managing thee signal levels is the responsibility of the sound engineer.

ALSO feed ALL interconnected equipment from the same receptacle or power source, even if it means running a power cable to a mixer alongside the snake. ALWAYS USE BALANCED audio cables whenever possible.

You can safely connect your powered monitor speaker to either the monitor output jacks or the tape output RCA jacks on your XP510. In addition, you may download the owner's manual here: https://www.manualslib.com/download/515708/Samson-Expedition-Xp510.html

Which amplifier specifically?

Here is a troubleshooting hint:

Put an incandescent lamp in series with the hot side of the power cord. This acts as a resetable fuse while troubleshooting so you don't blow fuses.

Schematics are hard to come by, but power supplies are easy to trace the circuitry.

Check filter caps and the diodes and THEN look for hot (temp) IC's and transistors.

The most likely case is that one of the main output transistors (if which there are many) is shorted. When the protect circuit senses DC on the final output, it will not allow the output relay to come on to protect the speakers from raw DC. With the power removed, you can check between each outputs Emitter and Collector and you will probably find close to zero ohms. From that point you need to unsolder each of the pins of the bad channel until you find the shorted device(s) and replace them.

'pianoforte'

BREV. N. 838420