20 Most Recent Teac AG-D9100 Receiver Questions & Answers

You have to enable them and turn the volume on them up separately with the speaker config, level trim, and up/down select buttons on the remote. You can also adjust the rear speaker delay time or just hit the test tone button and adjust the volume on each speaker separately as it goes through them one at a time...

Always be that legend when the audio amplifier IC damaged

If you have the amplifier open, and you have a new ECC83, you only have to pull the tube up. Before opening a tube amp. unplug the amplifier, because these things work with high voltages. Let the tubes cool down, before touching. They become very hot. We used to gave a steel like net, we could push over a tube end then could pull it, without chance of burning our fingers. What makes you think the tube is defect or should be replaced in the first place? They can work for ages.

Check your speaker and speaker connections. Do you have normal display? If so, after checking your speaker and speaker connections and they are ok, you might have a problem with one of your output elements (Mosfet).

Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on; or it may turn on but produce no audio to the speakers. Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up. You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it. If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good. If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'nekkid'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech. Check for loose speaker connections at the speaker as another possible root cause for intermittent shutdown.

This can be related to a fault in the potentiometer as it cut off the tracking of the voltage and gets back to feed the digital circuit. You need to check, sometimes a switch cleaning oil can help.Try to wriggle the pot control many times as it can help, if not replace.

Possible that there is fault in the preamp analogue/logic control. When you touch the volume control knob the static from you partially injects the circuit to work and thereby conduct to produce the volume.The volume controller is an analogue rheostat coupled to a circuit that can be the suspect , it can even be a fault- open circuit- of the controller.You can remove the top cover after disconnecting the power supply and check behind the volume knob for the circuit. If you are able to test this circuit , it will confirm the case.

Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech. Just take it to someone who can give it the sniff test in person. No one using a crystal ball over the internet is going to nail the problem or the price for fixing it.

Yes, and if you have a cable/sat/dvr box why don't you just run ITs best TV-related audio into the receiver without watering it down through your TV?

I'm not so sure that running the TV video through anything else serves any purpose. Once TV has it where else do you need it?

Something is shorting out and tripping a safety feature that protects the amplifier from damage.

try a few simple steps to see if the problem is internal or external.

First make sure that none of the speaker terminals have any loose strands of wire that could be grounding out the terminal and that no wires from the red terminals are touching the component or the black terminals / wires.

secondly disconnect all but one speaker test it to see if t causes the amp to go into protect do so for the other speakers until one trips the protect mode. If one of the speakers is tripping the protect mode it could be a damaged / blown component.

just for fun make sure your speakers are 8 ohms this can be found on the manufacturers website or in your manual. Its rare but some speakers are 4 ohm and they can cause amplifier issues such as tripping a protect mode.

You may have to evaluate the "value" of the receiver and determine if its worth repairing. Many shops will charge a "diagnostic" fee which may be $40 to $80 and remember that parts and an hours labor may not make good financial sense especially if you are talking a unit that is 5+ years old.

Hope this helps

you can download a manual for $9.99 from User-Manuals.com....I did this today and the manual is identical to the original it seems

Stekanko http://www.stefankoav.com/