Top 20 KLH ASW10-120 Subwoofer Questions & Answers

It's very likely that lightning has damaged the internal parts of the speaker. You may be able to get it fixed, but it may cost more than the sub is worth.

There is a small plastic plug just above the power cord. Remove it to find the fuse. http://product-images.highwire.com/4442801/6385-5.jpg

Is the vibration coming from the heatsink itself or from the fan running at high speed?I highly doubt the processor itself is vibrating; no moving parts to vibate. A more likely suspect would be one or more of the fan blades having gone out of balance and causing it to resonate at certain RPMs.What cooler are you using?Increase Engine Horsepower.

if your a good craftsman it is possiblle with a new hook upbest buy has them for like 20$

 Try here: http://www.parts-express.com/home-audio-video.cfm

I've purchased from them before and found thier products to be quality and the company is trustworthy.

 

Other than its a power board for a KLM 10" powered subwoofer board I can't really help you. I have been looking for a schematic for it for months. I am looking for were the black wire connects from the selector board to the power board. I guess a photo of it would work for me, it connects the base of q1 to the other board.

I think it wants you to raise the volume high enough on the sub so IT can hear at least 75dB. It can always adjust the sub downward if necessary. Max it out at the sub and let Audyssey deal with the adjustment.

Your crossover frequency selection would be a piont below which you want the sub to activate. It depends on the bass capabilities of your other speakers. You want some overlap so there's no droop in the crossover region where your main speakers roll off.

This can be due to either the integrated power supply system or the amplifier itself. As a tecnician I can imagine the possible faulty components and I guess that the cost isn't too big. But since I don't know your area I suggest to ask from a technician at your area to check the subwoofer.

In case of a problem or clarification or further details needed, don't hesitate to post me a reply before rejecting my answer.
If you are satisfied, rate my solution with the "thumbs" or (even better) add a testimonial.

Thanks and regards
Please kindly rate this solution
Stelios
direct fixya link: http://www.fixya.com/users/technical114

if you can look at the underside of the board with the resistor on it, take a magnifying glass and look around the pins poking through from the components. It may be that the heat as unsoldered a component (be it resistor, capacitor or otherwise). Look for gaps in the solder around each pin, and if there are any holes around the pins, try filling them in with a little solder.

http://www.docs.sony.com/release/STRDE335.PDF

I am basing hookup on my Bassbite !! manual. The procedure should be the same as on your Bassbite V

I have given you a link to your Sony Owner manual. It looks like you will connect your sub to the sub output on the rear of your reciever using the rca cable. Woofer out on the Sony to the R/Mono input on your Bassbite. If you have the front and rear speakers hook your rears into the rear speaker outputs then connect your front speakers to the front speaker outputs of your Sony. Your speaker jacks on the Bassbite will not be used for this configuration.

Now, adjust your speaker size setting for "SMALL" or "LARGE" speakers as appropriate for your setup (this is for the front and rear speakers and will not effect your Bassbite). Now set your Sony subwoofer output to "ON" You access this setting through your menu. That should be located on your remote for the Sony. You will want to refer to the manual to find the exact method to access your system menu.

If the link to your manual doesn't work for you then go to http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/model-documents.pl?mdl=STRDE335 and click on Operating instructions.

Hope this helps. Let me know okay? By the way, if this works for you you should be very pleased with the sound quality :-)

Kindly, DAVID (sean1dave)

Fuses only blow like that when a semiconductor device is acting like a piece of wire causing an overload. An ohmmeter on the ohms setting will show any transistor with this condition as a short, just like you had touched the test leads together! Follow where the fuse leads to. And look out for signs of damage too. The most obvious parts to go are the ones that do the work, in the power supply or the main amp device, often an IC.

Fundamentally the same sub - use these instructions as a guide.

http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/300-635m.pdf

The sub works but the speakers don't? Do you hook up the speakers to the subwoofer output "loop"? This is a circuit issue when it works and stops working. I have the same issue so I wound up joining the wires that go to the sub and the wires that go to the speaker together and place those connections into the sub. The sub works, the satellite speaker works and the impedance load is no issue for my system. Confused? Simply run your neg/pos wire to the sub and where it connects to the sub, run another cable to the speaker (pos to pos., neg to neg).

The only way to repair it would be to deal with component level repair. Although I have the experience, it is too petty and it works fine the way it is.

I saw this post. I have the same problem with my 10-100.
http://www.fixya.com/support/t2753393-klh_subwoofer_about_6_yrs_old_keeps

I have the same problem, a few months ago I plugged it into the wall socket, turned it on, then it just hums. Never smelled any burning until I opened it up. There are Two Large Electrolytic Capacitors on the main amplifier board that have completely leaked. There are three resistors that got so hot that the center of the board is burnt black. Next to those three resistors are a bunch of smaller electrolytic capacitors that also have scorched marks surrounding them, although there appears to be no leaking.

The last time I used the subwoofer, it worked great as it has for years. I unplugged it for a week and then when I went to use it, it started humming. I am an electronic technician by trade, I don't think its worth the time and materials to replace all of the defective parts. I suspect that the isolation transformer failed that then caused the main board to poof. The fuse on the outside is on the AC side and is fine. Which indicates that the disturbance is on the other side of the transformer. I do not have a schematic but the main board fuse (if there is one) failed to prevent a full on frying. The control board looks undamaged. If I can find on ebay a junk one that is for sale, I would replace the transformer and main amplifier board. The speaker appears to be ok, but I measured the resistance and it registers 3.2 Ohms. Which is odd, considering speakers tend to be in the even numbered categories such as 2, 4, and 8.

Hope this helps, I gotta buy a new subwoofer.

Check out this thread
http://www.fixya.com/support/t2753393-klh_subwoofer_about_6_yrs_old_keeps

This is a pretty common problem with this sub.

Here's a solution that I posted earlier this year, including schematics for the upper and lower circuit boards. Be sure to check the circuit board revisions to make sure they match my schematics.

It's unlikely that you can find a shop to repair it for less than the replacement cost ($75ish for a comparable KLH or Sony sub)

If you're up for doing your own soldering, here's a solution for the same problem with the same amp.

If this helps, please hit the "thumbs up" for me!

THE AMPLIFIER "IC" MAY BE SHORTED!
IC MAY NEED REPLACED.

If it is overheating then it is being driven too hard. You need to either reduce the volume, decrease your crossover frequency or allow the amplifier more air; i.e.; if the amplifier is covered with something like a blanket then it needs to be removed.