20 Most Recent KLH ASW10-100 Subwoofer - Page 8 Questions & Answers

You need to specific the model, all KLH receivers do not have identical inputs.

First of all a resistor color coding of Yel-Vio-Yel is 470Kohms not 470ohms. You are probably reading some stray voltage in the circuit. Yes, both NEG terminals of the speakers are common. Usually a receiver that blows the main fuse has a power suplpy problem. Check the recifier diodes for shorts. Other than that, the output transistors may be shorted.

Check those out and post the results.

Dan

Check audio wires , and test the system using a different main socket. If the socket is not grounded properly the speaker will hum, on an home theater this may happen even when unit is in standby.


Try disconnecting speakers one at the time , also disconnect any other cable (apart power ) connected to the unit.
This will tell you if the problem is wiring related.

Try turning off devices and appliances near to the unit, also turn off mobiles and wireless devices that can cause interference.

If the problem is not located or fixed, then it is usually an internal fault. A blown capacitor on PSU, or a contact on speakers outputs can commonly cause humming noise , even when the unit is off.

You can also check the threads below on similar problems:

Loud humming noise from Sherwood Amp

Hum from power amp - earthing related?

You can address your question specific to your stylus to the manufacturer at this web page:

http://www.klhaudio.com/contact.html

Hope that helps!

Good luck!

Okay sounds like there is Fault in the power supply or the output transistor have shorted and is pumping the driver with DC....remove the driver and test with a muti-meter and using the 200 Ohm setting. put it across the terminals of the subwoofer make sure it is disconnected from the amp module....if it is a 8 ohm driver you may get somewhere from 4-8 ohm reading if its a 4 ohm somewhere from 3-6 ohms....if you are getting a 0 ohm or "short" or a really high or infinity "open" reading then the driver probably has caused damaged to the output transistors in the amplifier module. connect the muti-meter to to the red a black leads from the amp module that was going to the speaker...put the muti-meter on the highest possible DC voltage setting Mine goes to 1000VDC and power up the sub amp module now you may get a jump and power up but then it will drop to around 1.0v (or less) that is normal but if it stays high like anywhere from 30-150 VDC then you have blown output transistors (remember if you dont have this issue just skip forward!)...if this is the case pull out the amp module (remember to follow warnings and disconnect from mains power) now the DC filter caps in the module stay charged for long time after power is removed remember: test before touching!! now hopefuly all transistors are laid out infront and you wont have to dig for them the're normally are mounted flat and bolted to a external heatsink on the back. test between all junctions of the transistors B+E C+E C+B make sure there are no shorts...if there is a short replace the transistor. across from it there is its partner...replace him to! more than likely he's faulty because they work in whats called a Complimentary pair...the PNP pulls up the postive and the NPN pulls up the negative..together making a full audio signal. now after replacing all the faulty transistors test for DC on output leads. If there is none carefully connect a NEW driver of the same impendance as the old one.....but do not connect up the old one because you will blow the amp again....now power up and test for sound....all good????


Now if there is NO DC leaking on the Output leads but its still blows fuses there is a power supply fault! pull out the amp module now there is two types of power supply that this sub (or any amp for that matter) uses Switchmode Power supply (SMPS) or the normal transformer supply.im hoping for your sake it is a normal transformer supply it makes it soo much easier to fix....now be very careful you need to check the DC filter capacitors for shorting or any other issues! so undo the board from whatever it is mounted on, now remeber these capcitors can stay charged for along time so be sure to test before touching...if they are still charged and you want to dischrge them i use a 100W bulb (not an energy effiecnt bulb...but a Normal filament globe ) and connect up two leads to it...now put it across the capcitor banks...it will glow brightly and it will slowly dimm....power discharged!!
remeber to check that all caps are fully discharged!!
now test with muti-meter again on ohms mode and check for any shorts...now as you test the resistance will get greater as the caps charge up...this means all is good but if the meter stays at short then you have an issue with one of the filter caps (now if there is a short the caps will not have charge in them but still test!!) Now carefully remove each cap and test to finally locate the shorted one(s)...if there is no fault in Filter caps i would check the power transformer on the primarys so disconnect the leads from the power input socket (remembering the whole time we're doing this power is disconnected!!) and check with ohms meter there could be fault in which case you need to get a new transformer..if its not a faulty transformer.. i would be checking all mains power connections: the switch,interconnection leads,the fuse holder ect...to make sure there is no shorts...now if the power supply is a switchmode supply i would not even go there! i can repair them but it is way to hard to describe here and is not suggested for a DIY'er to attempt to repair but if its 6 years old it should be the way i have described above (normal transformer supply)......feel free to contact me if you need some more help in repairing this..E: [email protected]
Depending where you are in the world most of the parts for amps can be sourced at local electronic stores or you could ask local repair stores to order parts in for you..if you are in Australia..if you want you can send me the numbers on the parts i can arrange them for you and post them out to you! good luck and i hope this can fix it,ben

The clicking noise is the protection circuit., sounds like you have a grounded speaker wire, but you say the speakers are not connected so the amp may be toast. Is there any smell of burnt wires? This is ussuallt noticable near the circuit board if something failed!

Get a set of wireless speakers (such as Advent AW-820 900 MHz Wireless Stereo Speaker System).  Connect the transmitter to the earphone jack of your computer.

Hi there,

It sounds like you have blown the amp that has been built into it.

As its builts into the system, you wont be able to replace it yourself.

Im affraid to say that your going to have to take this to a local repairs store, and too see if they can have a look at it for you... but i would say it would be cheaper to buy a new one.

Other than that... heres a few things you could try to check that it is the amp... Try plugging in some other external speakers into the system, if the same occurs then you know its not the speakers and it is deffo the amp.

Hope this helps

alex

Hi, you can get the fuse at Polk Audio. 800-377-7655. You can talk to technical, too.

If the display is working, you have audio. Check your amplifier. 1300Watt adaptor ... This unit draws a very low power and that is not needed.

1. Power Off: Turn off the device.
2. Jumper Configuration: Locate the jumper labeled "S16" on the device. Initially, it should be connected to pins 2 and 3.
3. Power On (Alarm+All LEDs Flashing): Turn the device back on. You'll see the alarm LED and all other LEDs flashing.
4. Power Off Again: Turn off the device once more.
5. Jumper Adjustment: Change the jumper configuration from pins 2 and 3 to pins 1 and 2.
6. Finished: Your Porpo YH-2000 is now set to the desired angular unit mode.

If you encounter any issues, you can press the reset switch on the back of the device to reinitialize it.

this model SA rather than SC seems to be a Middle East model. The SC version doesn't have DAB. https://www.google.com/search?q=panasonic+sa-pm250+instruction+manual ..

All questions need clear 'make model (what it is)' first 3 words. https://www.google.com/search?q=fmdott085+V398 ..

Question edited for clarity, typo and CAPS. Question moved from Cars and Trucks category. Claim on the warranty irrespective of how long you have had them. They charge $180 but they cost them $20 to buy from China. Package them up and send them tracked and ask them to replace the batteries. How long is the warranty on AfterShokz? While we hope you never need it, all new Shokz purchased from authorized retailers come with a two-year warranty that begins on your date of purchase. Jan 11, 2019

How To File A Warranty Claim For Your SHOKZ Headphones

https://www.google.com/search?q=Openfit+Shokz+battery+replacement ..

Are you using the charging cables that came with it? That is a type C. Are you securely attaching the charging cable? A loose connection would keep the battery from charging. If you had a low battery, you would see a red light. That you have no light at all suggests there is no charge left in the battery. I'm not sure the reset will work with no charge which is why you ought to check the cables first. But turn it off and then hold down the Multifunction button for 10 seconds to reset it. Then turn it back on and see what happens. If you can, test the charging cable on aother device. If you have another type C charging cable, try it, just to eliminate a bad cable. If these suggestions don't work, you may try the manufacturer's customer support.

The F2100 remote is not explicitly listed as compatible with the AerialBox T2100, I recommend using the remote that came with your AerialBox T2100 for optimal functionality. If you have any specific compatibility concerns, I suggest reaching out to Dish TV customer support for further assistance.

I have the same model with the 8 track player, original manual, and original receipt dated 1975.