20 Most Recent GE Stainless Steel Built In Trash Compactor GCG1580RSS - Page 6 Questions & Answers

First of all, never start the unit empty! If testing the unit and you do not know if it is the food, place a microwave proof bowl with cold water in it, and test it out. Do not wait for the water to boil, because it will be too hot to handle. If it smells like burning plastic, turn the unit off and bring it in for service. There are few inexpensive parts that can break down in microwave units.

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

based on your model number, I can only assume you put a metal container in the unit, which in-turn you had a paper towel.. the metal started to spark and thus the fire. you cannot USE METAL in this type of microwave. and if the unit wont work, it now defective...

If you did not use metal, you had a magnetron failure.. maybe you unit is under warranty.

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response. We take the time to answer your question. take the time to rate us.Thanks and good luck

I have the same problem. Worked fine last night - now nothing from the stove but the top works fine.

you need a new mother board

First, if the power cord is detachable, check the terminals where it plugs to make sure they are clean.

Second, look for a safety interlock button or tab that might have been released when you took it apart for cleaning (these are rare, but it is possible), and make sure it goes back the way it's supposed to when you reassemble it.

Third, take it apart again and see if a flat spade-shaped wire terminal is pulled loose from the switch or some other part. You should be able to trace a wire from the power cord to the breaker (reset button), from there to the power switch, from the switch to the thermostat (unless it is part of the switch), then two wires, one going to the heater and the other to the indicator lamp. The other (white) wire from the power cord goes to the indicator lamp and the heater. Sometimes wires break if they are overstressed during disassembly, so keep an eye out for this while you examine the circuit.

Fourth, find out how to use an ohmmeter to measure circuit continuity, then use it to trace down the break in the circuit (or get an electronics or appliance tech to do it for you).

Have you checked the circuit breaker panel? That could be the problem. Also, with a power outage, when the power comes back on there can be a power surge which can affect appliances. The surge might burn out important components of an appliance. I would check the circuit breaker first. If it is not the problem, you could try unplugging the microwave and then plugging it into another outet. If it still doesn't work, you will probably need to take it to an appliance repair shop. If you've had it a long time, you might consider buying a new microwave.
Thank you for responding to my request for clarification. I hope one of these suggestions turns out to be the right answer for your problem. If it is, please let Fixya know by rating my solution. Good luck!

On page 22 is your wiring diagram. In it I see that you have a bake and a broil ignitor. The ignitor's silicone carbide must not only glow but the resistance in it must change to 3.5 amps to open the gas safety bi-metal.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

www.powercord-manufacturers.com/kp-GE-Electric-Griddle-Model-106733-Power-Cord-10431.html

here is an active link that may help.

If it is a DP16 cord, good luck with finding a new one, but if you still have the old one, the following might help,

Solution for fixing DP16 Cordset for GE deep fryers: To begin with, you willl need to clean the electrical contacts on both the fryer and the cordset. They will be burnt from electricity arcing between the two when the cord is plugged into an outlet before connecting to the deep fryer. I used a dremel tool attachement grinder used for sharpening chain saw chains. It is cylindrical and fits in the holes in the cordset perfectly. You could use sandpaper rolled into a small cylinder, or whatever is available that will do the job. To open the flaps that cover the holes, insert a toothpick in the center hole of the cordset while you work. Make sure that both sets of contacts are completely clean before proceeding with the next step. Next, using needle nose plyers, make two tight coils of fine or extra fine (.032") resin core solder the same size as the holes in the cordeset. Press into place in each of the holes in the cordset against the electrical contacts. Spread the coils a little so they cannot fall out when the cordset is not attached to the fryer because the flaps will likely not close properly or at all. You can work the coils down so the flaps will close if you use the .032 solder, but they will still be a little loose, so they might jam the flaps open or partially open. This definitly isn't a UL approved method, but it will fix the problem completely. Happy frying!

You need a good external thermometer to check your oil temp.
Everything fries at 350-375 degrees.
Any hotter and the oil burns.