20 Most Recent Echo Gas Blower 135 MPH390 CFM Blower PB250 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Double-check your mix; it's easy to have too much oil in it which will foul the spark plug and gum up the carb. Also clean / replace the spark plug. It may have a clogged spark arrest screen... remove the exhaust cover & look for a metal mesh screen.

I'm having the same problem. My suspicion is the carborator requires gas/air mixture adustments. This requires a special carb adjustment tool - called a Long Single D Tool. I will try to have my fixed very soon - 1 week...I'll try to keep you posted.

sounds like it needs a carb kit the diaphram is dried and will cause the problems you are talking about

My research shows that a consumer gets a 5 year warranty and a commercial user gets a 2 year warranty on any Echo equipment they buy. Could you consider getting some warranty service on this unit since it is still under coverage? It sounds like a fuel delivery problem (carburetor adjustment maybe), but I also realize that some of the newer "rotary" type carburetors in use don't have the Low and High speed mixture adjusting screws like the old-style diaphragm carburetors that preceded them.

depending on how old it is and when it was last used form sitting for a long time some people make the mistake of leaving the fuel in the tank and letting it set for long periods of time. Usually when that is the case the carburetor needs a kit.

You might try to adjust the high speed mixture needle in small increments by turning left and right and returning to the same position if that does not work. Something that can cause that is carbon buildup in the exhaust port. Remove the muffler and clean out the carbon with a piece of wood or plastic so no damage is done to the piston or cylinder wall. It could be the air filter restricting air flow, so clean or replace. Hope this helps. Best regards and good luck.

Hi Billy. This is a problem with the float needle in the carb. See this link page 10 (Item 24): http://www.echo-usa.com/pdf/documentation/PB250es_P30911_070110.pdf Also item 15. Most likely there is either a hole in the diaphram or..... there is debris in the float needle seat that has to be removed. This is not a difficult repair but... it is tedious if you have to remove the float needle.

There is a repair kit for this WALBRO WTA33 carb. The part number for the kit is K10-WTA. See this link:
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/searchresults.cfm?cx=008737122150761418589%3Ac24nnqwh7co&cof=FORID%3A11&q=K10-WTA#205

Most local lawnmower shops have these kits in stock but... ordering on line can save you time and money for the parts search.

I am most certainthat if you clear the debris from the float needle seat and the diaphram is good that your leak will cease. If you clear the debris and you still have the over-night / between use leak.... the diaphram will have to be replaced. All it takes is a pin hole over time for the cylinder to fill up.

There is a Walbro carb for the WT series "Service Manual" here:
http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/WTseries.pdf

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
"Seasons Greetings"
Kelly

This site is to answer questions. We do not carry any kinds of tools. But if you tell me what city and state you are in then I can direct you to where to buy the tool.

check the carb needles ajustments may be off usually the high side is turn all the way in and turn out 1 whole turn and low side should be 3/4 turn out

WOW 14 years, I would give it a respectfull goodby. and spend $139.00 and keep going. The blower would have other "Age" related issuses even after you pulled all of the plastic off, removed carburetor,exaust and cylineder/head then you remove the flywheel and impeller then to split the crankcase and pull the crankshaft out replace the bearings. And all to reverse the steps wondering if you should have replaced the needle bearings and the wrist pin hopeing that the sealant you used on the crank case has sealed correctly, and are the piston rings really worn out or are they supposed to look like that. Then finally getting it all put back together only to find that it wont start because you dont have any spark or back firing because the coil is not adjusted correctly.

You have recieved GREAT service from that old blower. Good job. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/matt_8dbc24bf722649ac

Your description sounds like fuel restriction in the main circuit. Sometimes you need to soak the carb in carb cleaner and then blow out passageways with compressed air.

There is one "cheat" but it involves some higher throttle, and that is you remove the air filter, rev up the unit and briefly place palm over the intake. Sometimes this is enough to pull the obstruction free.

Sounds like restricted exaust. Remove the muffler and start it, see if that fixes it. If yes clean remaining carbon from exaust port. And clean spark arestor screen. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/matt_8dbc24bf722649ac

Jim, pull the muffler off and check for a blocked spark arrestor screen, or a partialy blocked exaust port. The screen is designed to catch carbon embers and gets plugged up. You can remove it, but cleaning it is a better choice. You can use solvent and scrub, or you can use a propane or mapp torch and incinerate the carbon, or you can just repalce it. On the exaust port look in after you take the muffler off and make sure it is open. You should be able to see the piston go up and down. The port is shaped as a rectangle. You will need to us a scraper ( a small screwdricer is fine), be sure to put the piston up, this will keep the carbon you scrap off from entering the cylinder. Be carfull not to scratch the piston whil cleaning. Then use carb cleaned to was the debris out BERFOE you move the piston to check your cleaining job.

The starter rope should be made of a braided nylon and not the cotton (cloths line) type. It will usually have a red or blue woven in it. A number 4 rope will work fine for your blower.

Hope this helps. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/matt_8dbc24bf722649ac

Sounds like there is something either broken,stuck or missing in the head.

Here's some sites... https://www.google.com/search?q=Echo+ES-250+leaf+blower+runs+at+half+power+but+revs+up+to+full+power+when+you+place+your+hand+over+the+end+of+the+blower+cone&newwindow=1&sxsrf=APwXEdfuUI7jrRK7a7diriTmYslXiuPC6A%3A1685666387711&source=hp&ei=Uzp5ZKLAKYLDkPIP0petsAw&iflsig=AOEireoAAAAAZHlIY9iuRmYgev7HEyg8_CovzkQGuk_0&ved=0ahUKEwjitf3RrKP_AhWCIUQIHdJLC8YQ4dUDCAo&uact=5&oq=Echo+ES-250+leaf+blower+runs+at+half+power+but+revs+up+to+full+power+when+you+place+your+hand+over+the+end+of+the+blower+cone&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EANQAFgAYABoAHAAeACAAQCIAQCSAQCYAQCgAQKgAQE&sclient=gws-wiz

Recheck the line replacement. The twin line feeds are tricky. The videos should help. https://www.google.com/search?q=echo+gas+2+line+string+trimmer+line+replacement

check your muffler screen for being plugged, this will cause it to not accelerate2StrokeJim