20 Most Recent Mitsubishi WS-65511 65" Rear Projection Television - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Well, this is how that set is supposed to work. After it is plugged in the LED should blink for 70 to 90 seconds. That is normal and is the amount of time it takes for the Digital Module to boot up. During 'boot up' time the set is inoperable. Once the LED stops the set should operate normally. If the blinking never stops there is a problem with the Digital Module. If the blinking does stop but the set wont come on there are other things you can do to narrow down why the set is not working.

did you replace both of the 5 amp pico fuses F9A04 and F9A05? They will usually blow when the old IC fails

Go on line and get an original Sanyo STK 393-110. Next, restore the blue centering rings back to where they were before you moved them. Look at the paint marks on the rings for reference if you are not sure. Replace the IC and check the resistors nearby for signs of overheating and proper value. Also check the fuses that supply the 24v to the IC. The service manual will show you the fuse location and give you the resistor values in the blue horizontal and vertical circuit. Checklist: You need a de-soldering tool or a good quality Dry Wick. Have a small tube of heat sink compound to liberally apply to the new chip. The hardest part will be lining up the double rowed pins on the chip and getting them to seat at the same time. Next, go to the convergence menu and follow the instructions. Good luck! PS you might want to remove the chassis from the cabinet to make it easier. Be careful to unplug the speaker plug and untwist the wire ties from the cabinet. Be very careful, this job is not designed for beginners.

I have had my WS-65511 fail like this, first at 4 years, second 2 weeks later, then 3rd time yesterday (4/14/2009). In past, the tech replaced a thermal sensor p/n 299P313010A (but Mitsubishi says that part is not for WS-65511 and that it does not have a thermal sensor - go figure). It is a white rectangle with about 30 pins in 2 rows and is soldered onto a board in the TV. List price is about $25.

I have had my WS-65511 fail like this, first at 4 years, second 2 weeks later, then 3rd time yesterday (4/14/2009). In past, the tech replaced a thermal sensor p/n 299P313010A (but Mitsubishi says that part is not for WS-65511 and that it does not have a thermal sensor - go figure). It is a white rectangle with about 30 pins in 2 rows and is soldered onto a board in the TV. List price is about $25. Might be your problem.

I have had my WS-65511 fail like this, first at 4 years, second 2 weeks later, then 3rd time yesterday (4/14/2009). In past, the tech replaced a thermal sensor p/n 299P313010A (but Mitsubishi says that part is not for WS-65511 and that it does not have a thermal sensor - go figure). It is a white rectangle with about 30 pins in 2 rows and is soldered onto a board in the TV. List price is about $25. Might be your problem.

I had same problem and discovered one of the little buttons on the front of the TV was stuck down. Don't know why, unless the maid bumped it hard as we never use them. Anyway, I poked/wiggled a few times at each button and the problem stopped.

Hi,
Your tv requires replacement of STK393-110 as it creates convergence problem and its available Parts Store here. If you want to do the job at your own, you need to know good soldering skills or get service of nearest TV repair shop.

The steady green blinking led is due to the DM not completeing the boot Cycle. You can get the repair kit at the following link which contains the replacement Capacitors and step by step detailed instructions so you can do the repair yourself. Very inexspensive Kit
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/product_info.php/pName/v21v19-mitsubishi-dm-repair-kit/cName/repair-kits

You have convergence problem in your tv as your local repair shop told you. You need to replace convergence IC . YOu can get from the link below .

Convergence IC can be obtained from the link

You need to replace both convergence ICs .It will cost you around $30
If you can replace it by yourself . If you take to repair shop they will charge you around $200 for this job. .
The IC number is STK393-110 .
You can get some idea on how to replace convergence IC from the link below
http://www.fixya.com/support/r704766-convergence_solutions
Hope this helps .

Let me know do you see Green and Blue colors in picture or they just disappeared?
Does picture give 3D effect ( 3 pictures) If yes, its convergence failure.

I have made some posts on Fixya today, because my buddy and I fixed our rear projection tv in minutes and wanted to encourage others to do the same. Same thing happened to us and we went on line to find our it is the bulb. It wont just go at once but will radically degrade. Just go to dlp lamp replacement and they will get you a new one and walk you through it over the phone if need be.

Mitsubishi Caps cause dim Picture faulty capacitor issue in the WD-52525 does seem to be prevalent at the 3 yr mark. At the bottom of this long-winded comment is a link to another discussion forum similar to this one where we obtained the service manual, chassis replacement manual, and encouragement to attempt the repair ourselves. My husband and I are not experts by any means, but my husband did have the tools from previous electronics projects to solder. So we took a chance on looking for bad caps. And I am here to say that I’m so glad we did because there were 2 obviously swollen caps that were easy to replace. The picture is now even better than when the problem first occurred since we dusted the mirrors and screens while we were in there. NO WINDEX. Just a dry micro-fiber cloth did the trick. We'll probably do that annually going forward.

According to descriptions from several people, the symptoms and degrading image due to capacitor failure can take various forms. In our case, we had a lamp blow out 2 wks before the TV died. And I do mean blow out, not burn out. We didn't get any lamp replacement warning. It flat out blew the 1-yr old bulb to shards of glass inside the casing. We replaced the bulb with a brand new one like good stewards of a DLP HDTV should do. A mere couple of weeks later we watched the image degrade over the course of an hour through various stages until the new lamp simply wouldn't light anymore and there was a solid black screen and solid red lamp light even though the lamp itself was fine. The trouble-shooting diagnostics (pressing MENU and DEVICE buttons on the front panel) gave the 3-4 code indicating a lamp abnormality. But ultimately the problem was solved by replacing the C9A37 & C9A38 caps (both are 10V 3300M-M 105C). We did not have to do any repairs on lamp or ballast components. The cost of 2 new capacitors from Digi-Key including shipping was about $14.50.

Some folks have stated that they were able to do the repair without removing the power supply chassis from the back of the TV. That was not the case for us. It was a bit intimidating at first. But we disassembled everything, labeling as we went, so we could freely inspect and access all boards on the power supply. There are some tiny, very hard-to-reach connections between the power supply and the ballast. For this reason, I also recommend disassembling those ballast components from the frame. They're simply too fragile to force in a very tight space when reconnecting.

Lastly, I am still pleased with this TV. The color and clarity can not be rivaled in my opinion. Even after having gone through this, compared to the problems reported in some of the other threads on issues with whatever other brand name or model you pick, this is a relatively easy repair that can be DIY. This was why we went DLP in the first place. And it is why we will probably remain DLP fans until they aren't made anymore. But next time, we’ll go with an extended warranty for sure!

I do wish Mitsubishi would at least acknowledge the issue. I don't even expect any reimbursement, replacement, refund or anything like that. I'd just like to know that THEY know there's a simple problem to resolve and that they're doing something about it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/show...=418307&page=84

Here's something that might also be useful. After you turn on the set, and get the regular red blinky lights, hold down the Device and Menu buttons together for about 5 seconds.
The Power light will start to flash in a two digit sequence.

For example, 3 flashes, then 7 flashes = 37.

Here are the error codes, and the corresponding problem:

12 = No error detected, check power supply.
32 = Lamp Cover is open.
33 = Air filter cover is open.
34 = Lamp abnormality
36 = Light Engine (DMD or Lamp Fan stopped)
37 = Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan stopped
38 = Lamp Temperature High
39 = DMD Temperature High
41 = Short is detected
44 = DVI cable between FMT and Engine disconnected

Did you ever get this problem fixed? Ours just started doing the same thing. It worked fine the night before, but today it's doing what yours is doing. The remote stopped working for the TV. The remote still works for the cable box, but volume and anything related to TV function not. The screen flashes when we try to adjust volume or anything else, but resets to previous volume. TV not responding to any commands either on the front panel or remote.
Any ideas? Thanks, Patti

Convergence amp ic bad
The STKs are common and if you have an experienced electronics tech around they can replace them for much less money but the tech must have advanced soldering and IC exchange experience.

The STK ics, two of them, can be purchased on line for around $20 to $40 each.

http://www.partstore.com/GetModel.aspx?MfgName=Toshiba&BrandName=Toshiba&ModelNu...

Partstore has two models available - one for around $40 and another for around $55.

The part number is STK392-110 and if you google you can find them for as little as $6/each but I don't recommend the cheap ones as they are not reliable.

It takes a good tech around 3 or 3 hours to take the old ones out and solder in the new ones. Also, it is likely one or two resistors are burnt and will need replacing as well.
Don not run the tv till you have it fix you will cause more damage!

my tv got blue line acroos screen and a yeloow shade on top of screen What can i do

try to do it inside the board.
there are some adjustments except brightness and focusing..
try if you can ...


regards,

often the capacitors will show no visible sign of swelling. 90% of the time the blinking light symptom is caused by those capacitors

You need to replace the 100uf capacitors on the DM board. Its a relatively easy repair, However I would recomend getting the service manual so you can see how to get the DM out . I will post a link to the other sire I work at as a support tech. they have the manual for sale and they provide free tech support for anyone that buys the service manual which they email you and the support techs have illustrated examples on how to do the repair step by step that they can send you for support. heres the link in case you want to fix it yourself.
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/