20 Most Recent Mitsubishi VS-60603 60" Rear Projection Television - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Well Johnny this is a most common set of circumstances dealt with on this forum. I would like to tell you the problem is simple, but alas it's anything but.
Most of the Projection and Plasmas use boards manufactured off shore for next to zero. This figuire represents the quality of workmanship in harmony with the cost! Thus around 18 months to 2 years the set fails!

What is happening in your set is that there are components that have failed, This usually begins on the power board. Because the light on the front lights up, many think.." well it has power because the light flashes....
The light is on the house side of the transformer..transistor..LED so yes it will light up. The relay that is excited by the on switch sends a signal to the power board and the 2 sustain board to check the voltage across a few points, however in your case the return signal is indicating that there is a failure in the voltage reading it expected. This will cause the relay to disconnect to prevent further damage and even fire.

Upon internal examination, you may see some small round objects known as capacitors being "fattened" or split on the boards near the color engine. However it would be better not to fiddle in there. Repair people tenhd to charge more if there appears interference. Some crooks even invent extra charges and blame you for doing more damage than would normally happen.

Now for the reality.... Replacing the boards with new ones will not fix the the problem. They need to be tuned or syncronised together. This requires special knowledge, tools, and the ability to obtain and understand a circuit diagram.

So what should you do so you dont have to spend a fortune to get it fixed? Call in a professional, you get the job fixed, it will have warranty against failure and be done properly ( use a mitsubishi recommended repairer, they know where to look and how to fix it quickly)
I cannot emphasize enough how this is NOT a DIY You run the risk of electrocution even when the set is off. This is because there are components that store high levels of power for days. There is also a radiation component in these sets that is a risk to health.

Those that have not heeded the warnings we provide, and who go ahead thinking we are supporting the repair industry usually come back several times asking us what they have done wrong, despite swapping the old boards for new.

So Instead of $3-400 for the repair they have now doubled their costs( some are now doing it a third tome!) because the same fault occurs due to their lack of knowledge and understanding that faults are not just caused by the obvious components that are showing damage.

Get more than 1 quote.. Call Mitsubishi and get a recommended repairer. Also if ther has been storms recently consider claiming the cost againsyt FUSION on your insurance policy. Just get the repairer to indicate this on the account.
I have been somewhat long winded in my reply, but as you said not tech savvy, I feel you need more than just a lot of techno babble to understand what looks like it could be fixed by replacing a fuse is not so.


Thanks for using FIXYA

www.tvrepairworld.com should have that board available.

need power supply replacement.

Ok, it sounds as though, you have a tuner problem. but with this symptom, it is impossible to tell what the exact "Cause" of this symptom is. The symptoms do not tell us what is wrong, sometimes it may indicate the "Area" in your case it is the X Tuner board. BUT thats NOT where the "Fault is" thats just the part that is affected. These days unlike the "Old" analogue days it just isn't realistically possible to fix anything but the most basic of problems with todays sophisticated units. This is quite apart from the Safety aspect, any unit that can cause a firs or have an explosion, or both, is NOT to be treated lightly, and and the repairer, of the unit is legally responsible, another thing to think about. Also, one must have tools, a Multimeter, a soldering iron, a deslodering iron, an oscilloscope, a signal tracer, tools, and most important of all, a Service Manual, without which, there is no way to even begin to understand and fix it, and more importantly Program it, AFTER it has been fixed. As these days a TV, is a PC, a Tuner, and an HDTV Monitor, and more, all in one. in the "old" days TV"s were more, rudimentary, and built to last for 20 years, and a "Parts" supply was set aside. They usually used to fail for only a few reasons, and they while still difficult, were less difficult to repair. Electrical knowledge was transferable, and they could be and would respond to, This-is-the-symptom-This-us-the-Fix, But that no longer applies, as now, it can be a Fault on I squared Bus, or "Sensor" failure, or it simple may have "Crashed" just like a PC, It could be a Diode go bad, and that will stop the whole thing. You see, in the day, the sets were Very "Fault Tolerant" because they were Analouge, and a faulty, component, or more sometimes, the set would always diplay something usually, and when they didn't it was one of anly a few things, sure there are always the horrid ones, and there are pleanty of those, but all in all it was quite easy. But with Digital Electronics, it either goes, or it doesnt, there are usualy few half measures. I mean thats the definition of logic either going or not. So it can take very little to completely paralyse a set, and generally give the only sysmptom, it can, by not working, usually No picture, or the like. So you, see the list is endless almost for any given SYMPTOM, as that is what is being seen, not the cause, as I keep going on about. Also any fault, usually involves the Power Supply, it is either the cause, the cause of the damage, or it is damaged. or ALL of them. Then after you have done the electronic repairs, you then must program the set to work, and align, and set up in general, any one of those settings missed or done wrong, back to square one. So, it is nearly always my professional opinion that one should always get a "Quote" form the manufacturers recommended service center, I cannot stress how important that last point is. It is even worth the cost of shipping. you see an authorised service agent, will have trained staff, trained on their brand, also they have first hand access to parts, original parts. This will actually save you money and ensure you can actually get it back fixed. Of course asking for a "Quote" also gives on the option of repair or replace. Often my clients,do not go through with repair, unless it is moderate, but in some of the more costly jobs they see it, as do i, that a replacement, with a warranty, is a better option. As an aside here, one could then tear the TV down, and sell the Known Good bits. You'd be surprised who needs parts, i myself often must by from third party sources to effect a repair. So money could be recouped, somewhat,and help out someone else.
www.hometheatershack.com/.../mitsubishi/11576d1231789739-chassis-cross-reference-service-codes-ptv_model-chassis-file_reference.pdf -


www.scribd.com/doc/17849622/V23-Training-Manual


http://elektrotanya.com/mitsubishi_ws-48511_55511_55711_65511_65611_65711_65712_73711_b55_chassis_v21_sm.pdf/download.html


Above are your service manuals, use these to get to grips with it all, there is a training manual, too, this will give you huge insight to how it all works, so you can then use the service manual, and troubleshoot your issue.

Ok, this is happening because the set's "Brain" and Switchmode Power Supply, have detected a "Fault" condition, that were it to "Fail" it may cause a fire, and explosion,or both, and "it" is Shutting down the set for safety reasons. When it cools dawn, the affected part, works again, the fault clears temporarily, and the set will again power up, until the fault "Comes On" again,and it shuts down. This fault, would very soon, go "Hard ON" and cause total failure. Below is a service manual, so you can get an ideas of what maybe wrong, and a possible fix. I actually recommend though, that you get a professional, to attend to this matter. Contact Mitsubishi, head office and ask for an authorised repairer. You will save $$ in the long run.

http://elektrotanya.com/mitsubishi_wd-52525,62525,52725,62725,52825,62825_chassis_v26_sm.pdf/download.html

i had the same problem with my old tv there is a plastic pane that was badly scratched on mine i had it replaced if there is material behind that that is tore i wouldnt see why it couldn't as long as it is the same texture and thickness preferably the same call your local tv shop to see if there is a special order for the same material

which model do you have the VS60603 or the VS6015R? Also try pushing in input and menu at the same time on the set and hold for 8 seconds to see if the tv flashes a code.

the default code is all the # 0.
if it is anything else, i dont know how to unlock it for u.

hello on the remote control the should be a button half black and half white this is the pip button good
luck

shaun

Leave it unplugged over night and then try it. If not, then I would say your regulator ic took a hit.

Ur power board is dead,need it rebuild by replacing parts or buy a new board.

most likely it is the convergence IC"S that cause this problem with these Mitsubishi TV sets
Larry Dillon
TECHMAN

1. Sounds like you have a video prioblem. But before you go spending money on a service call. Unplug the TV and take the back off. Next with a bright flashlight check the boards in the set for coolant fluid that has leaked onto the board. The fluid will be clear and kind of have a gel like feel to it. If you see it your set is unfortunately toast because parts are NLA (no longer available) Good Luck

The STK392-570 would be the big IC's mounted to the heat sink on the convergence board. The 0244211 are capacitors that I would guess from your problem would be on the power supply (usually the top will bulge if these are bad)

Replace Both of your STK392-570 they are big black ICs will have part number on them MATS Electronics 1-800-628-1118.

Perhaps it was not sottered on with enough metal to keep wire sturdy. You can take your board to a local repair shop and see if the can resotter the wire onto the board.

The problem is in the convergence section of the tv. A solder joint or loose connection somewhere in the convergence circuitry.
Try the Whack Test: When you first turn the set on and you see the bow-tie shape just vigorously whack the cabinet with your hand or fist. Whack it on the sides, top, back, etc. to see if the vibration from your whacking will wake up the bad connection or cold solder joint. If you can see a change in picture then it is a loose solder joint. Very costly to repair, over 10,000 solder joints in a tv.

check and, replace the fuses

try reseting the tv to manufacture settings in the
menu,or unplug it and try a different outlet,it works sometimes

the VS 60603 has picture tubes three of them called CRTs you can get replacements at the following link.
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/