Toro Super Recycler Super Bagger Lawn Mower Rear Bagger 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

3 most common possibilities: Most gas mower carburetors have a tiny hole for the fuel to rise into the vacuum venturi throat of the intake. The hole in this riser tube which goes down the center of your float chamber to the area where the fuel sits in the bowl is only about as big as dental floss. Take the tine of a wire brush to clear it of crystallized or varnished gasoline and oxidized pot metal tube crust. When they make stainless carburetors, it will eliminate half of the heart attacks caused by this problem. Additives and condensation that settle out in old gas also can lead to clogging. Another very common problem is shearing the aluminum alignment pin in the top of the crankshaft when the mower whacks a log, root or rock. The inertia splits the alignment pin in half and throws spark timing off. So it backfires or won't run. Also check your spark by grounding the fat end of the sparkplug with a jumper cable to the engine casing, leave it plugged to the wire and pull the cord to see if it is firing. Keep spark away from fuel. Ignition points in some small engines get crusty when sitting in humid conditions. So they have to be filed clean of oxidation for proper contact and sparkplug operation. Small engines like rich mixtures and starting fluid when they are cold.

PDF]Owners Manual - Mowers Direct

www.mowersdirect.com/manuals/20382OM.pdfSuper Recycler® Lawn Mower. Model No. ... Whenever you need service, genuineToro parts, ... This manual identifies potential hazards and has safety. You can download the above from google. You can also check if there is a safety feature keeping the PTO from engaging.

On most push mowers, there is a "key" that is located on the end of the crankshaft, opposite end of the blade, that drives the flywheel. It's a small rectangle piece of metal that connects the two. When the inertia of the blade stops abruptly, the flywheel acts as a safety for the engine, and shears the key. Tools are made to remove the flywheel and videos online for repair assistance. Replacement keys are specific to the engine you are working on. Hope this helps!

Cracked head, replace engine. $119 at Harbor Freight.

Remove carb float bowl. Clean bowl. Observe float bowl screw, look for hole thru bolt, if present use thin wire to clean out. Float should be hanging freely and gas should be flowing, raise float gas should stop. Pinch off gas line or use shut off valve. Remove pin from float, remove float and needle meter. Use thin wire to clean out passage were meter needle is inserted, wire should pass thru to behind choke. Replace float & meter needle. Replace float bowl. Pull rope half way several times. Inspect primer bulb for cracks or leak. Try to start, may take 5 or more pulls to prime.

Remove recoil rope assembly. Ensure rope is properly wrapped around. While recoil assembly is removed use ratchet and socket to rotate fly wheel, remove spark plug first, observe compression and exhaust at spark plug whole during rotation of fly wheel. Clean or replace spark plug. Ensure oil is full. 30w. Set spark plug gap. Always use Stabile in gas. Replace coil rope is required. Purchased by the foot at any mower repair store.

The way i set the govenor is, slacken the screw on the engine govenor arm, push the arm fully over to open the throttle wide open, now turn the actual govenor shaft within the arm in the same direction, fully retighten the govenor arm screw,

dirty jets inside the carb

loosen the fuel cap and try running it the vent in the cap could be plugged up

remove the cord assembly ,, either the cord is off track and needs to be rewound or it broke and needs replacement

Each wheel has an adjuster on it Usually A is lowest setting and E is highest setting

Remove the bolt that holds the bottom float bowl on the carburetor and clean it thoroughly. Careful, as it has an exterior washer between the head of the bolt and the bowl. Careful with the carb body gasket above the bowl also. The brass bolt is the main jet of the carb and if you are not using an inline fuel filter, debris, dirt, sediment and gum and varnish collect on it. There are very small holes in the bottom and along the smooth sides of the bolt. Use no metal on it at all. If you need to scrape on it, use wood or plastic.

Hopefully, this will clarify it..
http://small-engines.com/bsgovernors.html

Make sure that the doggone brass bolt that holds the carb bowl on was cleaned as well. It is the main jet and has tiny holes that get clogged from evaporated fuel/varnish and debris (if no inline fuel filter is used). It has holes on the bottom and the smooth part of the sides...it needs to be clean and shiny! If all is well and the motor is an OHV, then maybe the valves need adjusting.

Oil level too high? *(check oil level with dipstick fully screwed down!)

or

Leaking valve guide *(rare.)

Cylinder walls not sealing well and oil leaking past rings. *(less rare...nothing you really can do about....just getting used up)

I would change the oil and be very careful to fill only within the full range.
Then, run the unit once to clear the muffler out.

Good luck and be careful!

Question edited for clarity. When you put it away at the end of last snow season, I expect you just rolled it to the corner of the garage and left it until now? The two stroke gas in the carburetor, went bad and gummy. It starts on starter fluid because no gas is coming from the carb. https://www.google.com/search?q=toro+ccr+2450+carburetor+cleaning ..

See if the videos help. https://www.google.com/search?q=Briggs+and+Stratton+engine+model+252416+0757+01.install+the+spring+260695+for+the+governor+lever ..

did you make sure it has spark. i have learned over the years because an electronic is new doesn't mean its good? If it has spark remove the plug and put a bit of gas in the hole and re install plug see if it will fire on that gas. if it does its the carb something is probably blocking fuel. check the compression if its low compression it will not run. if u dont have a compression checker just remove the plug stick your finger tight over the plug hole and pull it over it should blow your finger off the hole.

Yes, decompression lowers cylinder pressure during low rpm while cranking. If you're concerned with compression, you need to do a leakdown test. Inexpensive (~$30) units are available through numerous eVendors. The leakdown test provides a metered volume of air that is translated and displayed on a pressure gauge simply labeled high (excessive leakage), moderate, or low (nominal leakage).

It's an L-head engine and once they get a few hundred hours run time, the valves wear into the hard seat, lash goes to zero, and they become hard to start. You can check valve lash by removing the crankcase breather (two screws). If lash is near zero, time for a valve job. Plenty of how to videos on the web. If it's easy start, just low power then less likely a valve lash issue.

There are many things that cause low power. Bad fuel, water in fuel (fuel bowl), fouled carburetor, poor spark, fouled plug, improper plug gap, wrong plug, weak ignition module.

If you have no forward, no reverse but the motor is still running normally the most likely reason for this is the main drive belt. This connects the motor to the transmission. If it stretches, breaks or drops off the drive pulleys you will lose all movement.