Top 10 Mitsubishi WS-65809 65" Rear Projection Television Questions & Answers

check 2 5amp chem fuses. in middle of tv. yellow or orange in color . if bad replace the 2 stk convergence ics and fuses.

Simplest thing would be that your component cables are not HU'd correctly. Having them reversed would do this.


Mr Bob

You con't need to buy anything other than a HD satellite or cable box. A television can either handle HD or not.  The high definition sets are monitors that are capable of handing an input of up to 1080i. 
Quick and dirty. Look in the back for blue, green, red cable input sockets. There should be matching cable outs. from your cable or satellite box. get a set of  component video cables, plug them in. Determine the audio type, where RCA jacks, Toslink fiberoptic or a component cable sock. In the latter you use a cable much like a yellow video. You can get away with using a yellow video cable if need be. Now, below more specifics if needed.

No, you don't want to by the add-on from Mitsubishi.  I am assuming you have a 16-9 wide format box  
If you have a squarish box, i.e. 4:3 ratio. forget it. I don't know if any wree made for HD, but unlikely.  If you'd given me the model number could be a little more definitive. If you have a manual, it will tell you whether you can go HDTV.  
Take a look in the rear of the set and look at  the connection holes. You should have at least one set of inputs, marked in some way with the Red, Green and Blue just on the inside of the cable hole. Those are tomponent cables pops that allow you to do high definition television. These cables are video only.; Sound is a second separate question. 
There are usually some other assorted things back there, including off air tele.and maybe another kind of connecter.. Some of these might be useful if you have games etc. that attach directly to the set. In any event, those component cables say that you can  do HDTV. (NB: 
The Direct TV  HD box should have component cable outputs. You can do this directly from the DiTV box to the set. You would also need a separate Audio Cable(s). Your set should have either a toslink fiberoptic hookup and/or a component audio cable. There's no inherent advantage between those two. If you have an old video cable (yellow) than you can substitute that. 
You should now have HDTV and high quality sound through the set. You will probably have to set up the inputs and other stuff with the.remote. It's pretty logical. If you have used input x for bringing in the video, just match it up.and your on your way. 
If you are going to confuse things by trying to connect another piece of gear, e.g. dvd box, you would go to inputs two. If you have the second set of component input, then hook an HD player to it. In this setup, you adjust the sound on the set according to how it works. I assume the DTV audiio can be controlled directly just as a cable box.  -- Here's what's going on. For several years Mitsubishi built higher end televisions without tuners or slots for cable (or satellite). But they were HD capable (as I said, not all). At the time, there was no HD that mattered and not even much of a standard for it. Some wanted 729p, others wanted 1080i The advantage for 720p over 1080i was supposedly the improved movement capture. 720p isn't dead, but it's not a problem. 
You will need to set the menu on the television (using the remote) so that it says 1080i. It does not do 1080p, the newer high standard. It only has two other settings of consequence, 480i and 480p. Put it on 1080i and leave it alone. The 480i and the 480P will be on auto pilot if you have an older DVD players. If there is a high definition signal at fewer than 1080, it will be upconverted to 1080i.. 
The set will handle any signal you send it like that. You probably have an HDMI  out from your dtv or cable box. The set does not have HDMI (unless on a later model). The DTV box should have both of them. That's a simpler wiring setup that allows 1080P. On the offchance you have a box HDMI only, you'll need a converter cable.
The setup gets a little more  complicated if you're using a receiver as a switcher, i.e. all inputs go there with only one output to the set. when ou do that you're in an area outside this question. 
  is this all there is to it. But It goes only slightly more difficult if you're hooking up the   . 


You don't need the box for the television set. 

Hi! This is not a great solution and a bit long winded, but aimed at those who've lost the receipt! Start by recording a new programme - the box should still record. Now the corrupt recording is not the first one in the library. When you press library now, all appears to be well. You can find which is the corrupt recording by scrolling down slowly. The corrupt one should be the one with no thumbnail picture (plus it'll be the one that freezes the box up again!). Restart the box agan and press library. If you have recordings before the corrupt one you should be able to scroll very quickly past it and delete them now. Now the corrupt programme is at the bottom of the library list - you can't delete it but at least you can avoid it now...

Like I said far from ideal, but it works on mine. Still no word from Thomson. Hope this helps.

The constant blinking green light means that the TV is not booting up. This is a common problem on this set.You need to remove the shield from the DM board (standing upright on the left where the DTV RF connector is)and inside you will see the four leaky capacitors (1000 MFD 16 VOLT)replace them,plug the TV in and wait 70 seconds for the blinking light to stop,then turn on the TV.The hard part will be removing the board from the TV(lots of screws and connectors,takes time)

You must do some checks first:LED does not stop blinking after plug in. Verify the standby supplies, 12-volts at connector KA pin 17, 6-volts at KA pin 18 and the 28-volts at KA pin 19, if the supplies are present suspect the DM PCB part # 934C067001 LED does not stop blinking after plug in. Check C9B01, C9B02, C9B10, and C9B11 (1000 UFD 16) on the DM PCB, if they are bad replace them with part # 181P734030 (680 UFD 16 V). LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature; this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds . LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector RF pin 4 and 5 on the Signal PCB if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D736001. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector RF pin 4 and 5 check good suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C061001.

Just click below for more information.; http://www.fixya.com/support/t838883-mitsubishi_wd_52825_tv_wont

Hope it may help you ;

Regards,
VOTIT

There are four (4) caps on the 'DM' board that need to replaced. Parts: 680ufd 16 volts, orig are rated at 1,000 ufd.

Fisrt try resoldering your Boards then Ck pico fuses they are green or yellow look like resistors but are fuses 5amps or 6amps also you may need to replace Both of your STK ICs they are Big Black ICs will have Part number on them example STK392-570 Call Mats For these 1-800-628-1118 Go by number on your STKs

Something is not right here--The green is adjustable in the TECH menu--did this person adjust or try to adjust in the customer or the TECH menu?

If you confirm actual model number I can tell you how to get into the TECH menu--yes--green will not adjust in customer menu--it determines geometry and is only adjusted in the TECH menu.

Also, this set requires any convergence adjustments to be done in 480 and then in 1080--if only adjusted in one mode the other will still be bad.

Let me know if you know how to adjust in TECH menu or not--with exact model number I can tell you how to get there.

If this helps you rate this solution as I do this here for free.

SD TECH

2,2 error code is short protection---98% of the time it means one of the two soldered in pico fuses this set uses is blown----there are several---but your problem means if it is ws-65809 one of the two stk-392-570 convergence chips has failed.

I will attach a photo---they are on the middle circuit board and the two to the right are for convergence--both are green and 5 amp--with the set unplugged check both of them like any fuse--no reading means bad.

If you find this--I HAVE START TO FINISH, STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS FOR THIS REPAIR IN THIS SET--SHOPS WILL GET 300 or more but you if you can do it yourself buy everything you need for under 40 dollars--I can tell you the best place to get the chips, fuses, etc.

If you want the instructions let me know and I will post them here for you---they are based on my own actual experience doing this repair in this kind of set hundreds of times.

If this information helped you rate this solution as I do this here for free.

SD TECH



Here is a photo of what the two chips look like--The one in the picture says 392-560 but yours uses two that look just like it--STK-392-570.

Mitsubishi self check: MOST OF THESE SETS HAVE A SELF DIAGNOSTIC:

UNPLUG TV AND THEN PLUG BACK IN---TURN ON---GREEN POWER LIGHT COMES ONFOR A MOMENT AND GOES OFF.

PRESS AND HOLD "device" and "menu"buttons on front of tv for at least 5 seconds and then release both together.


Watch for power light to blink in a sequence:

1 blink-then 2 blinks-------no error

2 blink-then 1 blink-------X-ray protection

2 blink-then 2 blink-------SHORT PROTECTION*******

2 blink-then 3 blink---------deflection circuit problem

2 blink-then 4 blink---------vertical circuit problem


******2, then 2 is most common---usually means one of the fuses that protectthe Convergence IC or IC's is blown---set will detect no voltage to convergenceIC and shut down.


SET WILL REPEAT BLINK ERROR CODE UP TO 5 TIMES ANDTHEN TO GET IT TO REPEAT MORE YOUHAVE TO UNPLUG SET AND TRY TO TURN ON AGAIN.


IF IT IS 2 AND THEN 2---USUALLY
CONVERGENCE CIRCUIT PROBLEM

let me know what you find--hope that you find 2 blinks, a pause and twoblinks--this is the most common and easiest to fix.