My misubishi ws-65809 would not turn on and had
Hi, well when testing a diode you DO NOT use the meter set to OHMS, indeed you need to use a meter with a "Diode test" feature, you see when using a test with only OHMS, it will NOT supply enough current, unlike the diode test function, to bias the junction correctly, and give you the proper reading. Using OHMS only will and does give erroneous readings always.Now as to the problem, i see where another person has jumped on the old "Capacitor" bandwagon, if only all faults were so... look without inspecting the unit and taking voltage and current readings it is simply frivolousness to state such a thing unless one has direct knowledge of the fault?Look to effect ANY repairs one simply MUST obtain a service manual and start with the Power supply and check the voltages there and work out, there simply is NO other way.The fault you describe may have a myriad of reasons why the unit is doing this "Fault" there is NO shortcut, NO magic method of diagnosing anything OK. With a problem like this unless VERY experienced, one should simply replace any suspected boards, "On Spec" as it were.Before we can attempt to repair anything at all, there is one thing that one MUST do before anything else is done. Now that is, the making sure that the Power Supply,of the unit, no matter what it is, has the correct Voltages, coming into it, and more importantly, coming OUT of it. This is absolutely imperative, as, IF these Voltages are NOT correct then NOTHING will work, properly at all. So we must measure these voltages with a Volt Meter. All Voltage measurements are made with reference to ground. Meaning we clip, our Black, Minus, Lead onto the Earth, or Chassis, or Negative (-) "Rail" of the Power Supply. Now with the Red lead, we can now, measure these Voltages. Now sometimes, the Voltage of each Output is annotated,or written, onto the PCB, that will indicate the Voltage of that output. However most usually they are NOT, so in this case we MUST have a manual to tell us. Now this manual is called a "Service Manual" or sometimes a "Repair manual" This manual is absolutely vital so much so, that it can be near impossible to do without it. As apart from having "Troubleshooting" step through's, it also has our Voltages. When we measure these Voltages they are 100% EXACT, so IF the Voltage you measure, except for a few rare exceptions, the "Rail" that is NOT at the correct voltage is the one, that the "Fault/Cause" is "ON". Therefore we can now work outwards from the Power Supply, looking for the cause of that problem. Now if the Voltage is Lower than specified, we are invariably looking for a "Short", something has "Faulted" and is "Dragging" the Power Rail down to earth. Now if the "Rail" is "Higher" than the specified Voltage then the fault we are looking for is usually some sort of "Open Circuit" possibly a Diode, or resistor that has changed it's "Value". Now knowing this and knowing that the Power Supply is the FIRST place to start you troubleshooting and repair from. You now have a MUCH better chance of a "Fix". One thing more, DO NOT forget to get your SERVICE MANUAL. for you exact make & model. even if you pay for it, you will be glad you did.OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
