20 Most Recent Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection HDTV - Page 8 Questions & Answers

To begin here is this a WD-52525 Model?Have you had all the dirt and dust blown out of the set?

The caps on the power board are replaceable by a ten year old who can solder.If 1000uf @ 10 volts go to a higher rated voltage cap say 25 volts which is why all the original ones went south.Each cap has a -minus and a +plus on one side===pretty simple to do with only two leads each and a plus and minus marked on the part and on the board.Do not swap parts from another junk board...waste of time and effort.hope you get it going

Check the back of the tv, there will be a collection of plugs and they will be marked AV1 AV2 etc...They will be color coded and yellow is Video, and red/white are audio.

there must be a HDMI option in the picture settings on the tv and select 1080i or 1080p in the ps3 video output settings

Hi Mark,First of all thank you for posting your question here at Fixya.You've mentioned that you can hear a slight grinding noise. This noise came from either a faulty color wheel or fans. To isolate where the fault came from, first I would advice you to access the "error code operational check". This is a built-in software that log and give an equivalent error code by means of blinking LED to determine the exact caused of the symptoms.How to access the "Error Code Operational Check".1. Turn on the TV and wait until it automatically shutsdown.2. Pressing the front panel "Input" and "Menu" buttons at the same time, and holding for 5 seconds, activates the Error Code Mode. The Timer LED flashses denoting a two digit Error Code.Example, if the error code is "42" the led will flash 4 times pause and flash 2 times and it will cycle for a total of 5 times.Please let me know what is the error code.If you can't access the error code mode because the TV didn't gone to shutdown. I would advice you to open the rear panel of the TV to pinpoint where the grinding noise came from.1. Remove 8 screws (A) from the external input frame.2. Remove 10 screws (B) form the rear cover.3. Pull the rear cover from the TV.Tape the lamp cover switch to closed position like on the picture above or else the unit will not turn on.Your TV has a 3 fans :1. DMD fan2. Lamp fan3. chassis fanIf the grinding noise came from the fan(s) you have to replaced it. All fans have the same part no. 299P312010However if the noise came from the optical engine assembly, you have to replaced it part no.938P059050Jdvillanueva

most likely dm board is not good- bad capacitors on dm board is common problem for that model.

This part will cost you about 650 to 800 bucks my friend. if you have any soldering skills, and can follow directions, I posted a DM board fix. it may just be four small capacitors. Now this set that was used in the fix is not exactly like all the other Mitsubishi TV sets that still have a DM board, but if you can locate the DM board, follow the rest of the repair. if you do not know how to solder, do not take a chance, as this part is way too expensive to be experimenting around with. Get the Capcitors(there is a link there too for the capacitors)and take the DM board to a service shop, as this should not cost you a lot to have a pro do this for you. The DM board fix is located here: http://www.fixya.com/howto/h154057-mitsubishi_dm_board_repair Good luck

Tiny particles of dust on the light engine lens can cause this (and was a service call for me about a month ago), or possibly the expensive light engine.

Hi Mark,First of all I would like to thank you for consulting Fixya.com regarding on your problem.Your model no. Mitsubishi WD-52525 (Chassis No. V26) is known for steady blinking Timer LED fault after pressing the power button key. Once this kind of symptoms is encountered and the unit didn't come on and stuck to this blinking death of life, it means that the DM board failed to boot up. In normal operation, timer will blink after AC is applied for 80 secs (DM board booting process) maximum before the picture and sound to come on.You've mentioned that you had already reset the unit, unplug and plug back in to the outlet but still the symptoms persist, then this is a clear indication of DM board malfunction. It will not stop from blinking if the faulty parts didn't isoltated.Good news! because I have a link where you can buy a repair kit for this kind of fault. Kit includes the parts that are known to be faulty, instructions that will guide you in the whole process of repair. Click it HERE. It is a V26 chassis (your chassis) DLP / DM Power repair kit.For additional info watch some tutorial video below.Electrolytic capacitor info. (Known to be faulty on the symptoms you've encountered)Soldering TutorialHow to desolder parts on the board.Please let me know if you need further assistance.Rating and feedback are highly appreciated.Hope I helped you.Have a nice day!Jdvillanueva

IF it uses the STK-393-110 it is not a WD52525.

What is exact model number on back of set?

Mitsubishi sets using the part are rear projection sets--

I have START TO FINISH, STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS FOR REPLACING THE STK-393-110 CHIP IN SETS THAT USE IT--available here for free if you need them.

They tell you everything you will need and how to do the repair--a site on EBAY sells the chip for about 11 dollars plus shipping.

The reason I composed the instructions is I have repaired hundreds of these sets and you are not the first person who has asked this question here--

If you want the instructions let me know and I will post them here for free.

If this helps you rate this solution as I do this here for free. Keep in mind--the instructions I wrote from my own experience doing this repair many times.

If this information helped you, rate this solution as I do this here for free.

SD TECH

ck to see if color wheel is spinning

no 200v for video line open low value resistor for the 200v

ck for the 330v ac going to ballast from power supply

Some simple suggesions or questions: Have you done the soft or hard restarts this model has?I think I know who you are and know what happened by the way this question is till now open.STEVE

I have several suggestions, are you open to them?I will ask you to do simple things and tell me what you find.Steve

Have you tried the soft restart or the hard restart as this may just be a glitch?Steve

You did not respond to a paying question, do here you have questions now?

This model is prone to a lot of problems to the point where a year or so ago they offered a chassis replacement on an exchange basis. I would with rear cover removed try to localize first where the sound or buzz is coming from: The ballast? the Light engine? The power supply?I can help but as I said this model has a LOT of chronic problems.Steve

Thats a common problem usually caused by failed caps on the DM and The Power Boards. You can get the V26 Chassis DM / Power repair kit from www.tvrepairworld.com which has the caps and the CD with repair instructions.