20 Most Recent Mitsubishi WD-62525 62" Rear Projection HDTV - Page 5 Questions & Answers

HelloIt seems to be some fault with its HDMI cable you connect to this device from the source. As you get sound by HDMI, and no picture at all, this indicates the fault with cable itself. There is a cution notice says that " To assure continued FCC compliance, the user must use a shielded video interface cable with bonded ferrite cores at both ends, when using the PC or HDMI input."Cheang the cable and check.

If one light is blinking (lamp light?) remove and inspect lamp to make sure it is in correctly and not shattered. If the set has a recessed reset button on front (if set is unplugged and plugged back it should blink green for about 70 seconds and go out) you may have a issue there.The model indicated here has a host of problems.

If the model number listed here is correct:Set has a feature where if power is lost and then returns set will blink for about 70 seconds and then go out. Set if ok will then be able to be turned on-----This is a boot up sequence inside the set.If light constantly blinks and will not go out---you have a circuit problem.The 525 models (52 and 62) are prone to all kinds of problems.The first place to look at (or have looked at) if that light constantly blinks is the main power supply for the set---One common issue with these (the only cheap and easy one) is on that board are 4 filter caps---1000 mfd caps that with age suddenly will fail and are easy to see if bad----tops will be puffed up.Requires unplugging set and following power cord to power board--lots of screws on these sets.....I attach a photo of puffed up caps (it is extreme puffed up) but the tops of the caps must be perfectly flat with no brown material oozing up or out at top or bottom.Let me know if you have questions.Typical 1000 mfd cap (yours should be black) bad caps that are puffed up on top-----Several sites on the internet sell a kit based on model number for this repair.

That is what we call the green light of death. Your chassis has about 50 or so capcitors that need to be replaced. Mitsubishi will rebuild your chassis for you for around $200 plus shipping.

This is a very common problem within your projection TV set there is a small red, green, and blue picture tube. On top of the tube there is a lens that focuses the video on the screen. Between the lens and the top of the tube there is a hollow chamber filled with a clear liquid. This fluid is specifically designed to keep the tube from overheating. After about 4-5 years the fluid will start to become cloudy and will will get worse over time. Tvrepairkits.com is a good place to get a repair kit to fix this condition yourself.

Tvrepairkits.com is a very good source for service manuals. If you don't see one for your model you can contact Ed to get see if he can get a manual for your particular model.

ONLY 1 of 2 things can cause this problem----First thing to do is remove front speaker grill--it should pull out and issecured with plastic pegs--behind it you will find an inspection plate---Notice the one or two pairs of wires coming from the front keyboard of theset---remove the inspection plate and follow the wires to the right--you canunplug both plugs(most have two and they are marked with letters and differents so you cannot get them wrong)The idea here is to remove the front keyboard with its reset button etc fromthe circuit---You will still be able to try to turn the set on with theremote---These sets have a Receiver that is called a DM board--(large metal box to theleft as you look from the back) and if the power goes out the green light willblink for about 70 seconds and then go out---it is the Receiver booting up. Itis called the DM board.If disconnecting the keyboard allows the set to turn on--you have a bad resetswitch and two choices---either operate the set only with the remote or toremove the front screen and get at the reset switch (it is tiny) and removeand/or replace it.If disconnecting the keyboard does not restore the set to operation---thereceiver is bad---there are 4 or more caps and some pico fuses that can fail inthat unit---Mitsubishi no longer sells or repairs these--if it is bad and notthe caps there is a company you can send the unit to and have it repaired--ifyou need to know their name let me know---You can call them and get a quote for repairing the receiver.Let me know what more information you need--I am here to help.SD TECH

green power light flashes and will not stop?

You can use warm water and a soft cloth to try and clean it, but it will probably leave some evidence that liquid existed between the two layers at some point. Mitsubishi will deal screens directly to their customers if you ask nice enough and are willing to install yourself.

A few of these (not sure if this model) have two mirrors inside--stupid idea and only a few had that--.If this is the case here--little mirror (I mean LITTLE) is at bottom pointing up from the optical lens--gets dust and such from the fans= picture gets darker to the point where brightness is very diminished.Mitsubishi can tell you if it has two mirrors (the large one in rear of set must not be touched and never needs cleaning as any finger prints etc will show in the picture.If two mirrors I can tell you what to do--15 minute two person job.

ok, title here says Mitsubishi and you say Sharp---can you tell me the model number of your set?

Its in the owners manual for this set but basically remove front plate and below screen is door. Lamp is behind door.Easy way for you is google model number with "how to replace lamp" or the owners manual and it is a ten minute job.Let me know if you need help.

Usually it is normal but if contrast set way too high that can also cause it.set bright at about 70% and contrast a bit lower.,

Set if unplugged and plugged back will have the power light blink for about 70 seconds and then go out---then set can be powered up.This is the set "booting up" and if green led fails to stop blinking a serious problem which is common in these is present.Google the model number in this case with blinking green light, sometimes referred to as the "blinking light of death" in these sets

try to restore factory settings so that we can easily diagnose if the problem is on the settings or have a faulty parts insideBest regards,Chester

Troubleshoot first by self diagnosis

Hi Meagan, my name is Cheri Torres and I work with DISH Network Internet Response Team. I came across your post and wanted to see if I could help. Connecting your TV to your DISH Network receiver should be fairly easy, depending on the connections you are using. If you are using an HDMI cable you will need to connect one side of it to your TV and the other end into your DISH receiver, as long as you have an HD receiver. If you do not have an HD receiver you are probably going to want to use composite cables(red, white and yellow). If you are using either of these cables you are going to have to set your TV to an input in order to receive the DISH picture. You can select an input by finding a button on the TV remote or the TV itself that is listed as input, source, AUX, mode or video. You will need to cycle through each one until you find the DISH picture on one of them. Once you have the picture you will need to press SAT on your DISH remote and everything should be working fine from there. I hope this information is useful and if you have further questions feel free to ask!

you can buy a DM or Power kits from tv repair. i changed the capacitors on both of mine but it has not fixed the problem. Same WD-62525 it may work for yours.