20 Most Recent Miller Trailblazer 302 Welder Generator 907217 907216 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Check the circuit breakers, one may have tripped or failed, such as CB4 which would also impact generator voltage output and since it controls power to the 24 control system- the first one to check or service. If you can access the rear terminals, check the voltage in operation at both lugs- if you do not get the same voltage reading at each lug of CB4 measuring them one at a time to chassis ground, the breaker is tripped or faulty .CB1 is inline with the 240 VAC outlet and is ahead of CB2 and CB3CB2 and CB3 are inline with the 120VAC outletsIn each case, switch them off then back on.If you have the GFCI option, it may have been tripped by unsafe conditions.

Switch S1 may be dirty or damaged. The field should not need flashing as that will occur when you engage the start button.It is possible there are some faulty connections in the 24 volt control section. Loose or corroded 24 volt connections to the contactor may not be allowing adequate current to flow. The connections on the SR 1 board should be checked as well. Also check the rectifiers. THey should be moderately high in resistance with test leads held one way on the rectifier, then with leads reversed, the resistance should be at a minimum 10 times different than the first reading either greater or lesser. Use a decent DMM to test them.

Hi:

Part number for the ground output terminal is MIL 039046, list price is $24.34.
For the Big Blue need to specify what engine/model does your machine has or serial number.

Hi:

Follow the link for the trailblazer owner's manual, check section 10 for wiring schematic.

http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o4426ab_mil.pdf

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Hi, well i am sorry to tell you but one should NEVER "Jump Start" a machine such as this... replacing the battery with a good one well OK, starting from another Car, Truck, system & battery is BAD.
This procedure is usually done by simply paralleling the remote battery across the existing battery, this can and will often cause damage, sometimes one may "Get away with it" but on the whole it will damage things..
I think H & 0 error codes, have to do with the charging system?
It will most likely be this, "Jump starting" that has damaged the electronics in the system? In any event a flat battery is a no no.. there should be no condition that the battery should have gone flat? It should have been charged up via the recharging system inbuilt into the W/G. Of course this may indeed be the problem, as in there is a existing fault that caused the battery NOT to be charged?
Neither of those CB's has very much bearing on anything, unless they are "Tripped" which from what you indicate they were not. There are no other fuse panels etc to my knowledge?
You are going to have to get in a professional as if what i suspect is true then you will need certain electronic boards replaced.. only a thorough professional testing and inspection will tell.
If one ever MUST remote start any battery started device FIRST one must completely remove the battery connections from BOTH ends, and then and only then, may one connect up the jumper cables, always using the Earth which is connected First, and then the Positive, Remote terminal first then connect to the device. To disconnect the reverse is followed, the Positive is removed from the NON Remote end, FIRST, then the other positive end from the remote terminal, then the Earths can be removed. This will stop any spike surges or other "nasties" from .affecting the system.

Sounds pretty normal. These units are not rated to weld continuously. They might only be rated at 5-10% for cheap welders and longer for better ones. They are never designed to run continuously. You need to get into the higher end ($$$) before you get that ability.
You can try to blow cool air into the unit to help it cool. Sometimes this can extend the work time.Basically you can try that or work to your temp cut off limit as you have been or upgrade to a better unit. That is about all you can do.

Hi:

That's not a code, 004 means the working hours left before the next oil change.
The display always start at 100 and count down all the way to zero.
If you don't change the oil and reset the count down you will start seeing negative numbers, meaning that oil change is due.
To reset the counter once you change the oil do the following:
Cycle engine control switch from the Run/Idle to Run position 3 times.

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You must have the fuse blown. check fuse F6 and replace it.
F6 protects the engine wiring system from overload. If F6 opens, (blown) the engine will not crank.
F6 is located inside the left side door.
Check you owners manual chapter 8-10 for more information on how to replace F6.

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The control box for the spool gun it's just an adapter to feed the right voltage to the wire feed motor, the heat (voltage) must be adjusted from the three knobs:
1) Process Contactor knob must be dial on wire feeder CV using remote.
2) Polarity Must be set on DC
3) Voltage, depends on thickness of your work piece and wire gage, but 20 volts must be enough for up to 1/4" thickness and 035 4043 aluminum.

I never heard of a 50A spool gun, probably you meant 30A.

If your voltage it's erratic check the following:

Clean and tighten connections both inside and outside unit.

Check and secure lead connections to remote control.

Be sure connection to work piece is clean and tight.
Remove excessive coils from weld cables.

If continues to be too high (hot) and can't control it, then you should send your machine to be checked that's probably a problem with the PC1 or PC2.

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There is no fix for it, is just an info; the machine is telling you how many hours before the next oil change, when the machines reads Oil 1 or a negative number then is time for a oil change.

Recommended is Mobil SAE 5W-20 performance.

According to Miller's chart your machine was manufactured on July 1989.

Go to your nearest welding supplier, if you have Praxair near you gi there and ask the saleman to pull up the part brakdown and find the right part number, saleman will ask you for serial number on the machine, it takes only two days to get it from factory.

Remove all fuel pumps.Buy a LOW PRESSER inline electric fuel pump attach it between fuel tank & carb Most smaller portables I've worked with have this problem. The mechanical & electric stock pumps wair out fast. You should be able to purchase one at any welding supply house High presser pumps will give you fooding problems with carb.

One of the two will fix the problem, change the fuel filter or change fuel pump.

only switch win welder is off or not running

The P-7 error in your Miller XMT 304 CC/CV welding machine indicates that the input voltage is too high, causing the unit to automatically shut down. However, operation will resume when the voltage falls within the acceptable upper range limit (which is 15% above the applicable input voltage). Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot and address this issue: Check Input Voltage: Verify that the input voltage is within the specified range for your machine. If it exceeds the acceptable limit, consider adjusting the power source or using a different power supply. Inspect Bleeder Resistors: The P-7 error is often related to the side output board, particularly the bleeder resistors. Ensure that these components are functioning correctly. If any of them are faulty, replace them. Examine IGBTs: Inspect the IGBTs (Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistors) on the side board. Even if they appear fine, remove the output board and verify the protection diodes on it. Sometimes, an IGBT may have a damaged base that isn't immediately obvious. Be Cautious: When working on the machine, be extremely careful. There are high voltages (around 325 volts) stored in the large capacitors, which can be fatal if mishandled. Always wear appropriate protective gear and follow safety precautions. The complexity of the device may require expert assistance.

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