20 Most Recent Pentair 2 hp WhisperFlo InGround Pool Pump WFE28 () Questions & Answers

there should be a backwards threaded screw take that off then hold the back of the motor shaft and unscrew the impeller regular threads

It this question about a pool pump not working? I am not exactly sure what water feature you are referring to. If your pool pump is not working at all, you will most likely need to prime it. Also, make sure that your breakers are not thrown and that you have power getting to the pump. Check for a jammed or clogged impeller and make sure that all baskets in the pump and skimmer are free of clogs and jams.

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com. It does not hum or buzz or anything? If not I'd start with looking for a tripped circuit breaker. If there is nothing tripped then the motor has either tripped is thermal overload and it needed to cool off or it is dead and needs to be repaired or replaced. If it is the overload it will start working again within an hour, maybe two. That is a sign of an internal problem that needs to be corrected soon or the motor will fail permanently. If the breaker tripped it too is a sign there is a more severe problem that needs to be addressed before the motor fails beyond repair.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

It could be the pump is bound up but it is more likely the motor is failing. It may be a small part such as the capacitor or the starting switch, but could also be more severe such as the winding itself. You will also want to examine the shaft where it passes thru the pump and motor and look for signs of rust from a pump seal leak. Start with the capacitor. Use a digital multi-meter (DMM), preferably with a capacitor setting, or an analog meter set for Ohms. With an analog, you should see the needle deflect as if testing a closed circuit then it will slowly drop to 0 if the capacitor is good. If it doesn't move or moves and stays to the side showing a closed circuit the capacitor is bad. If you notice a burn hole near the terminals on the end of the capacitor do not bother to test it. If you do not have access to a meter you can try grounding the posts together with a screwdriver to see if they arc although It is not a very reliable test method. Be sure you are holding on to an insulated handle for the tool you use to short the terminals together or you can get a good poke. If you are not familiar with testing these parts your best bet would be a local electric motor repair shop to see if the motor can be repaired or if it would need to be replaced. They should also be able to ensure there is no pump damage. If you wish to continue to try to repair it yourself please comment with any questions you have as you work thru the pump and motor.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details or contact me thru our site at www.arrowpools.net prior to rating the answer; I'll do what I can to help. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

If your pressure has gone up, the problem will be on the discharge side of the pump. First, make sure that your gauge is not malfunctioning.
Next see if all valves after the pump are set properly and that the three way valves or backwash valve are not broken inside.

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Gary

THERE IS THE TANK GASKET THE DIFFUSER O-RING,LID O-RING AND THE SHAFT SEAL.. ITS A 1000.. ASK YOUR LOCAL POOL SUPPLY FOR A PAC-SEAL 1000 .. CLICK HERE TO SEE HOW 2 REMOVE YOUR PUMP .. PRIME THAT PUMP AFTER A REPAIR ... HOPE I WAS OF HELP.. IF SO .. VOTE .. Jay

sounds like you have alot of air coming from the pool. check the weir in the skimmer to make sure it's not stuck and blocking water from coming in, assuming the water level in the pool is normal.

If you have an auto cleaner, make sure the hoses are not cracked. Use a process of elimination to try and determine where the air is coming from. If you can't find anything obvious, have the line(s) pressure tested.

Here's the tech manual... ck page 60-61 https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/pentair-pool/residential/automation/easytouch/manual/easytouch-control-system-8-and-4-users-guide.pdf Here too you can contact them... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIKQUt6wP1Q Best to you

Sometimes its a simple Power Cycling that's needed. Fancy term for going to the outdoor pool panel, flipping all the breakers to off, counting to 10, then turning them back on again. Hope this helps

I found it to be a dirty filter. I wasn't getting the error 5 code just ADO and 5f1

What does the LCD Screen say? Does it say display not active?

Do you have an Easy Touch Controller?

Yes, the water must be circulating rapidly when the heater is on from being cold. Once hot, it can just circulate gently.

Sometimes it is best to call in the professionals who have the knowledge and tools to find problems.

stack flue sensor heater overheated check gas pressure if ok sounds like occasionally low pressure if pressure ok check for burner tubes blocked

possible ignitor bad

Usually resetting the 'Service' breaker on the main control box resolves this. If not, even though your remote receives data, you may still want to replace batteries in the remote. Next would be a faulty remote transceiver board ( cheaper to replace than the next item), in the unit with the antenna, or the mother board (the more expensive item).

From your description that is bad service Go online and google Pentair legend II pool cleaner hose swivels

bad temp sensor