20 Most Recent Honda Black Max 2600 PSI Pressure Washer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

was the carb drained before stowaged? if not carburetor cleaner is needed to clean the jets and float bowl out from varnish build up

There could be gunk in other parts of the carb. Id take it off and spray out some of the ports/jets. Be careful of the carb cleaner spraying back in eyes!

That means the engine is burning oil. Unfortunately that means that the piston seals are bad and need to be replaced. Its not terribly hard to do, but you will have to tear apart the engine. Unless you are comfortable doing this I recommend taking it to a small engine repair shop.

http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/images/020338_0PUMP.pdf

http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/black-bm80913-p-39651.html

4-Cycle Engine Oil (SAE 30 or SAE 10W30)
Here is a link to the owners manual, should you need it.
http://www.blackmaxtools.com/product_manual/file_url/6/BM80913_485_trilingual.pdf

I had a similar problem. Turns out I had left the hose disconnected and some sort of wasp built a paper type nest inside the washer tube that the hose connects to. I had to take the pump off and take apart and then cleaned it out with a screw driver. Not too easy to do but finally got it clean. Same thing happened with the hose.

So, if you haven't used it for awhile, check that there is no blockage in the hose or pump tubes. You might be able to blow it out with an air compressor.

This is a symptom caused by a sticking Unloader valve. The Unloader valve is inside the pump outlet body under the large black knob.
Example picture : http://www.msservice.net/product_spotlight.html

Before doing any dis-assembly try this procedure first. This may sound weird but it often works. We do this with a short piece of garden hose,,,,, Add 3 to 4 ounces of engine oil into the water inlet by pouring the oil into and old short / cut off garden hose with the end elevated but connected to the pump inlet.
Slowly pull the engine starter cord so as to pump the added oil into the pump and let it sit over night. Just keep pulling the starter cord "IGNITION OFF" until you note oil exiting the high the high pressure hose connection.
Then connect everything like you normally would the next day.
MAKE sure to purge the water supply hose of air at the pump connection before starting the engine.
Start the engine. NOTING that your going to shoot out the oil you put in the day before..... Pull the wand trigger every 3 to 4 seconds so you cause the Unloader / thermal relief valve to stroke within the pump body. Don't give up... you have to do this for an extended period of time so that you have HIGH pressure each time you pull the wand trigger.
With the engine still running.... let it run trigger off for about 1 minute at mid engine speed. Pull the trigger again and see if you have high pressure. Do another long pause... then use as you normally would.

IF the above lubrication process does not work....
The Unloader / thermal relief valve needs to be dis-assembled so that the springs and seals can be lubricated with Lubriplate #105 white grease. Make sure to also lubricate the casing of the pump body before putting everything back into the pump body.
Here is the white grease tube your looking for at any automotive parts supply.
http://www.lubriplate.com/products/greases/no-105-motor-assembly-grease.html

This should get you going again. Just note that Unloader valves will notoriously stick after end of season storage upon the next use. It is important after an extended non-use period that the wand trigger is cycled every 3 - 4 seconds to exercise the Unloader valve springs and seals in the pump body. You only need to do this for about 45 seconds.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Is it actually a Honda pressure washer or does it just have a Honda motor on it? Try this place fisrt for parts. jackssmallengines.com

i wanted now use only gas or gas whit oil

What size wand are you looking for? The most popular sections of wand that we sell are 8 ft and 12 ft.

We had problems like that before with our power washer. The pumps go bad. Even on new equipment. What's your warranty look like?

Another thing is the water gets stopped up.
Remove gun and hose.
Turn on machine and see if you get full pressure shooting out of pump.
Next, check the incoming water line.
Most power washers have a screen washer >>> replace screen washer, then fire up again without hose attached.
Gun triggers also fail. I think we had to replace guns when they went bad.
As a rule, I always read the manual front and back.
There are interesting things in the manual that neither of us know right now.
The manual may give you a hint.

If you need more help, answer back and I will look up the manual if available and see if together we can troubleshoot the problem further.

See the attached link for the correct oil for the pump on this machine.

http://www.wmpcs.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=213

1. Make sure that you are using the black quick connect nozzle supplied with your machine. If you have a vario nozzle (turns back and forth to adjust the spray pattern), you are going to want to pull out on the nozzle to get the machine to a low pressure setting.

2. If you still have an issue, take a paper clip, straighten it out and stick it into the hose nipple on the pump where your chemical hose is connected, push in and out a couple times to free up the ball and spring.

3. If it still doesn't work, take the chemical nipple assembly apart, make sure there is a o-ring, ball and spring. If one of these are missing you are going to have to order a chemical injector repair kit. If you have all the parts you can streach out the spring a little and put it back together which should make it work.

There is no manual available for this machine, I do have a manual on a simular machine that would give you a good idea on the basic operations of the the machine. See attached link, click on the G 2500 VH manual.

http://www.wmpcs.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=6