20 Most Recent Hitachi Wh18dl 18v Liion Cordless Impact Driver - Page 7 Questions & Answers

To remove the timing pulley bearings on a 100-1598 Enco mill, follow these general steps:

1. Disconnect Power: Before working on the milling machine, ensure that it is powered off and disconnected from the power source. This is crucial for your safety.
2. Remove the Timing Belt: Loosen the tension on the timing belt by adjusting or releasing the tensioning mechanism. This will relieve the tension on the pulley and allow for easier removal. Carefully slide the timing belt off the pulley.
3. Remove the Pulley Retaining Nut: Using the appropriate tools (such as a wrench or socket), remove the retaining nut that secures the pulley onto the shaft. Turn the nut counterclockwise to loosen and remove it.
4. Tap and Remove the Shaft: With the retaining nut removed, you can tap the shaft out from the opposite side of the pulley. Use a soft-faced hammer or a block of wood to gently tap the shaft, gradually moving it out of the pulley and bearing assembly. Be careful not to damage the shaft or the pulley.
5. Remove the Bearings: Once the shaft is partially or fully removed from the pulley, you can access the bearings. Depending on the specific design of your Enco mill, the bearings may be press-fit or secured with set screws. If they are press-fit, you may need a bearing puller or a suitable tool to remove them. If they are secured with set screws, use an appropriate tool to loosen and remove the set screws before extracting the bearings.
6. Install New Bearings (if necessary): If the bearings are damaged or worn, it is recommended to replace them with new ones. Ensure that you select the correct size and type of bearings for your specific mill model. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper installation of the new bearings.

It's important to note that specific procedures and techniques can vary depending on the exact design and construction of your Enco mill. Always refer to the mill's user manual or consult with a professional technician for model-specific instructions and safety guidelines. If you're unsure or uncomfortable performing these steps yourself, it's best to seek assistance from a qualified technician or machinist to avoid potential damage to the machine or injury.

Question edited for clarity. This is a made in Taiwan special and a copy of an Arrow stapler. The staple magazine is the silver piece at the bottom rear edge. From memory, you press in and lift to unlatch it and then withdraw the spring and feeder. Link to the model, the maker and a video of a similar stapler. https://www.google.com/search?q=Tangible+LT-227 ..

Made in China and sold under different names. https://www.google.com/search?q=neiko+7+auto+polisher+manual ..

Is this https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/758876O/3mtm-electric-variable-speed-polish-instr-man-7-1000-3000rpm.pdf

Sorry but we do not buy or sell on this website. This is a site for repair advice and tips. Perhaps you could contact the original manufacturer of the sharpener or the place you bought it from. They may be able to supply parts or suggest where you could get them from.

Seven years later... sorry, man!— Solution — I have a Skil Belt Sander model 7313 which must be very similar if not the same. It has a 3/4HP motor, 3" x 18" belt capacity, a lever for belt release and a single Phillips screw for "adjusting auto-track" which is a misnomer in itself. Very odd. That screw is on the front left as you are using the sander, belt-down. When you "loosen" (CCW) this screw, the belt should move (if at all) toward the body of the sander; "tightening" it (CW) changes the angle of the front roller, which can force the belt off the open side. In my case I had to loosen it all the way just to slow it from slipping off the machine.My tolerances wore over time — or my belts were constructed poorly — so that the belt always rode off and away from the machine no matter where that screw was .So, I "shimmed" the roller closest to the adjustment with a 1/2" strip of duct tape one full wrap around (this made the end of the roller closest to the tracking adjustment "fatter." Tested it. It needed more. I added another piece of tape to the complete circumference of the roller, but this time 1" wide, covering the first tape right up to to the original edge, and over toward the middle. Tested it again. It needed more, but was improved. I added one more tape, 1-1/4" wide from the same edge out to the middle — effectively making a bit of a 'cone' toward the center, and this solved it for me. I think that in my case, the belts I bought at Home Depot were just a bit too long and needed this shimming method to take up slack. I found it easiest to make final adjustments "under load." Sand something right-handed using light pressure and adjust the screw with your left hand. (Note: this differs from the offical instructions in the manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/132374/Skil-7313.html?page=8.It may help to lubricate the pivot point of the front roller, which is actually about 4" back of the axel, right at the release lever's rivet, back inside the machine. If this pivot point is not fee moving, your auto adjust may not be able to allow proper rocking for adjustment.Also, with the belt off the machine, you can get a better idea of how the adjusting screw for the so-called auto-track feature does its work. Mine seems to have a lot of room to adjust it exactly the wrong direction, and no adjustment in the opposite direction. Hence my shimming idea.

Unfortunately, it appears that finding a manual for the Chicago Forge 9" disc and 6" belt sander may be difficult as the company no longer exists. However, there are a few things you can try to help with repairs and maintenance.

1. Look for similar models: Try looking for manuals for similar models of disc and belt sanders. Many of these machines have similar features and functions, so you may be able to find a manual that can help you with your repairs.
2. Check online forums: Look for online forums or discussion groups related to woodworking or metalworking. Many of these forums have members who are experienced with various tools and may be able to provide tips and advice on how to repair and maintain your sander.
3. Contact local repair shops: Check with local repair shops or machine shops that specialize in repairing power tools. They may have experience with this type of sander and be able to offer guidance on repairs and maintenance.
4. Experiment and tinker: Sometimes the best way to learn about a tool is to experiment with it and tinker around. Take the sander apart and see how it works, clean and lubricate the parts, and see if you can diagnose the problem. Just be sure to take safety precautions and follow proper procedures when working with power tools.

Good luck with your repairs and maintenance!

If you have installed the ceramic balls in your Medicool 20K Pro Drill, and now it is not working, you may need to perform the following steps to fix it:

1. Remove the handpiece from the control box.
2. Unscrew the two small screws on the front of the handpiece.
3. Gently remove the front cover of the handpiece.
4. Remove the two ceramic balls from the spindle.
5. Reassemble the handpiece by replacing the front cover and securing it with the screws.
6. Reconnect the handpiece to the control box and test it.

If the drill still does not work, it may be a problem with the control box or another component. In that case, it may be necessary to contact the manufacturer or a professional repair technician for further assistance.

Question edited for clarity, 'Foredom', not 'ForedOOM'. Question moved from Washing Machines category. Likely to be a broken internal shaft cable. When they break they tie up and tangle in the sleeve. https://www.google.com/search?q=Foredom+stops+spinning

Remove the magazine and staples. Look down at the very end and look for a damaged bent staple. You can also check that the hammer is firing. https://www.google.com/search?q=Black+%26+Decker+9700+electric+stapler ..

They are hard to come by but you swivel a little clip in the front and then a small door comes up. You then insert the staples in-between the solid meatal bit(bottom) and the small meatal foot (top), you should feel spring resistance. If you see this I hope it helps.

Here is the manual. It is also called a Cobra To load nails,turn gun upside down and tilt the gun so the side with the nail icon "T" and staple remaining window is facing down (Fig. 3). Load by leaning rack of nails tight against inside of staple chamber in housing (Fig. 3). Be sure to insert nails with point of nail facing upwards. The gun may jam if nails are inserted in the wrong side of housing. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/794561/Cobra-8000.html?page=4 ..

try this copy and paste https://www.manualsdir.com/manuals/590139/watts-r4x40-3-r4x40-2-r4x40-1.html?page=9

To fix an Apsco 17 stapler with a detached spring, you will need to reattach the spring to the stapler. Here is a general process you can follow to do this:

1. Unplug the stapler and lay it on a flat surface.
2. Locate the spring and the area where it attaches to the stapler. This may be near the back of the stapler or on the underside.
3. Using a small tool, such as a flathead screwdriver or a pair of needle-nose pliers, gently pry open the area where the spring attaches. This will allow you to access the spring.
4. Hold the spring in place with one hand, and use the other hand to carefully attach the spring to the stapler. Be sure to align the spring with the correct attachment point, and apply gentle pressure to secure it in place.
5. Once the spring is reattached, test the stapler to make sure it is functioning properly. If the stapler still does not work properly, you may need to consult a professional repair technician for further assistance.

scrape, sand, Prime with an acrylic primer ,skim texture and top coat or call a professional

Not available anywhere, but there is a similar lathe from Craftsman. https://www.google.com/search?q=Tradesman+8232+manual ..

wall paper patterns change with the fashion and times it is unlikely that you would get the pattern off the net as the pattern would be continually updated I would try face to face with wall paper/ decorator shops with a good photo of the pattern as they may still have the pattern books somewhere in storage

check amp draw ---possible circuit--bearing[s] --motor overheating