20 Most Recent Briggs Stratton IC Horizontal OHV Engine 305cc 1450 Series 145 Gross Torque 1in x 3 2132in Shaft Model 2053320537B1 Questions & Answers

Hi check float level if it's to high ::::::: it's possible the seal inside the needle & seat is faulty u will have to buy a needle & seat package. . cheers

Check for proper operation of crankcase ventilation and make sure oil is not overfull.

I would suggesting posting in automotive.

I think you have posted in the wrong area!

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When you removed the float no jet should have fallen out. If you take out the retainer pin for the float you will be removing the bowl float and needle valve. The head of the needle has a shaft that fits onto the tab of the float bowl and fits into the hole where the needle valve seat is.

Valve adjustment would NOT fix what you are describing. This sounds like bearings or some problem with the cylinder walls. I think a tear down is in order.

sounds like you hooked up the govner wrong

Hi bmacbrkSounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible. Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:Write down on a piece of paper and or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of sharp instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.Check you fuel line/s condition...after a while they will degrade and need replacement.Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing or take a picture of how the lines are connected to the carburetor.Also a good time to take a picture for later reference for reassembly.If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.Please take time to rate me Bud

It's pretty easy but since this is the pump section not the engine section.....4 to 6 thousandths each valve or 0.1 to 0.15 mmAdjust only if you are having performance problems and suspect it is the valves.Owners manual:http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/iorpAFJU0HAjhJvcv4.pdfIPB:http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/18kvBIXPnfBhU7y.pdfTo adjust valve lash, remove cover that has OHV stamped on it, this will get you to the adjustment end of the valves. You will see two rockers, IPB page 3, #1029, and two set screws with nuts on them, IPB page 3, #192. These are the adjusters. Rotate engine so that one of the valves is being used, as in the rocker pushes on the valve stem and pushes it down toward the engine. The other valve is now fully retracted in to it's seat and is ready to be adjusted. Using proper tools, loosen the nut on the set screw while holding the set screw with proper tool, probably a metric allen wrench. Keep the set screw from moving while loosening the nut. Now take your feeler gauge and slip it between the valve stem and the rocker arm. Adjust the set screw so that the feeler gauge has a slight drag on it when you slide it back and forth. Tighten the nut while holding the set screw from moving. Check your work, if it has tightened or loosened the drag, you will have to do it again this time allowing a little leeway so that when you tighten the nut again it doesn't cause the lash setting to be wrong. Takes a little practice but nearly anyone who can use a wrench in each hand at the same time can do it. Now do the same for the other valve. Once you are satisfied, put the cover back on. You can test run the engine with the cover off, will only be a little oil splashing out, just a few drops.This is still the pump section, but never said I didn't know a little about small engines!!

how to adjust over head values

smell the oil and see if it smells like gas the needle valves don't seat and gas overflows into the crankcase if so change the needle and seat and change the oil run it without a load and the change the oil a second time

clean the magneto with sand paper of 2000 grit to produce signal to the coil

what are you trying to find out?

it goes with the needle valve sitting into the little step on the float

Remove all the wires at the coil and retest. Good idea to use a new plug for testing or insert metal into plug cap and then hold close to metal of engine. If still no spark, remove the coil and take to small engine shop for free test (may have been damaged by heat if it was making contact with flywheel). I use a growler to test the coil. If retest produces spark, most likely faulty oil sensor. Remove the wire from oil sending unit. Dont replace the oil sending unit, just check oil often.

Disconnect small black wire on coil then turn it over to see if there is spark. Assuming (not a good thing to do) that the ignition system is good and you find that you still have no spark after removing the wire, the coil is then suspect.

I have a Briggs & Stratton 3.5HP Model 91212 type 1319E1 engine that I'm having trouble keeping running. Once it starts it will run about ten minutes, then die, and then is impossible to get re-started. Is this a carburetor problem, or possibly a coil?
Kent

Sounds like the coil is bad with it having to cool down to be able to start again.

Sounds to me like maybe your float is bad. Check float for pin hole or out of adjustment. Good Luck....