Serger may have a threading diagram inside the front looper cover which should show the various thread eyelets that you need to pull the threads through and they may be numbered one to 4 also to indicate order of threading. The diagram is usually colour coded to match the tension dial colours and serger usually has colour dots on the different thread eyes to help you follow the thread path for each thread.
This video is great and hopefully will help you http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zszJYQe2aws&feature=related, it has lay in tensions while yours has dials so just pull the thread around the dial right to left and then across to the next thread eye and this should pull the thread into tension. Dials are usually all set to 5 for normal stitch formation.
On my serger you thread up in the following order: top looper (second from right dial), bottom looper (right hand dial), then right needle, left needle; this video shows all threading going from right to left however, so if you have a numbered diagram inside your thread cover, then certainly use that order. But always loopers before needles.
Raise the thread aerial first before you start, put the cones onto the thread spools and if you have any cone holders (little plastic triangles) put them on the spools first to steady the cones. Now for each thread, take the thread tail from the cone, up through the aerial thread guide, then follow the coloured dots and take this down the front of the serger putting it into each coloured thread guide, through looper then up under the raised pressure foot. Repeat for next looper, then the needles.
Pull all 4 threads out under the foot to the left, lower foot, then chain off a little to start and test sew on fabric, adjusting the tensions if you need to.
Other adjustments are stitch length (usually a knob on right beside the flywheel numbered 1-4, blade position, a dial either left or right of the blade, press on the blade to release the tension on it before you try and move it. And differential feed, this is also a knob numbered 0.5 to 2 usually. If you can't see this on the right by flywheel then open up fabric plate (left cover) and look in there for these two adjustments.
I would suggest you start with tensions on 5, and stitch length of 2-3, and test sew on scraps of the fabric you wish to overlock. You can then either move the blade to cut wider or narrower to suit and adjust the two looper tensions if you need to close up the thread on the cut edge. There is no black and white settings as each fabric will behave a little differently, generally you adjust the looper tensions a bit until the stitch is encasing the cut edge and you have a seam width that suits the weight of the fabric.
Differential feed leave on zero unless you find you need it when a loose weave fabric goes wavy, then turn it down to close up the feeding. Sergers have two feed dogs, one before and after the foot and turning differential knob changes the ratio of feed between the two so either stretches the fabric, or pushes it together as it goes through the stitching sequence. So by turning differential feed up to 1.5 or 2 you are stretching the fabric and you can do a narrow rolled hem edge that is all fluted (lettuce edging).
I hope this helps you out a bit, if you are completely new to this machine and have never used a serger then I always suggest taking a class from a local dealer, it is really worth the money and time as they are quite different to sewing machines but once mastered, really change the dynamics of sewing and techniques are much more like commerical production with flat construction etc.
Many times you can get a small burr on the tip of the lower looper and it will break one of the needle threads. Run your finger nail off the tip of the lower looper, all around, and check for a snag as your finger nail slides off the tip of the looper. You can get some very fine sand paper 600 grit and gently rub on the back side, top, and bottom tip of the looper. Never the front side of the looper. Try serging again and see of that doesn't help.
has the cone of thread at the back got caught up? this sounds like your thread is being caught and not feeding freely through the tension guides. Check the thread cones are okay and that the thread is pulling freely off the most right hand cone (lower looper). Also this thread dial should be set to the same tension setting as the next dial to the left for the top looper. Other possibility is that the tension disc itself has become gummed up or dirty with thread lint or dirt. Turn thread dial to zero and clean between the discs be rubbing the selvage edge of a piece of fabric between the discs gently. Now return tension to 5 or normal setting and try again.
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Hope this solves your problem. Thanks for using FixYa.
Power Off: Turn off your machine completely. Make sure it's not just in standby mode but completely powered down.
Unplug: Disconnect the power cord from the outlet. Wait for about 10-15 seconds to ensure all power is drained from the machine.
Plug Back In: Reconnect the power cord to the outlet.
Power On: Turn on your Janome 300e and see if the screen is responsive now.
If the issue persists even after performing a reset, there might be a more significant problem with the machine's software or hardware. In such cases, it's advisable to contact Janome customer support or a certified technician for further assistance. They may provide additional troubleshooting steps or recommend servicing the machine.
