Top 20 Nor-Lake KLF7766C Commercial Freezer Questions & Answers

sounds like a bad defrost terminator or timer wired wrong. won't make temp as the evap is not clear of ice/frost build up. check your wiring diagram for location and operation of terminator.

I would start there. If the thermostat has an off setting, turn it there and see if it goes off. If not, try turning it to it's warmest setting while the box is cold to see if it turns off. To test to see if the relay/ contactor is stuck/bad, kill power to the unit (Unplug or turn off breaker). Disconnect one wire to the thermostat. Restore power. If unit runs, bad relay/contactor. If unit does not run, I'd replace the thermostat. Make sure the sensing bulb of the thermostat is in the conditioned space of the box or in the return air (intake) side of the evap so it can sense the box temp.

start with checking the freon level. If too low, the txv will open and try to feed the evap. this can cause some overfeeding and give you some frost in some cases. It could also be a txv not feeding correctly. usually and overfeeding condition. causes frost build up on line and compressor and pressure in evap too high to remove the heat needed to properly cool. If a cap tube system, usually a sign of over charged or a real dirty condenser. In both cases, an evap fan, not properly working will cause a freeze up of the evap causing a high box temp and frost build up on the line and compressor.

Bad fan delay switch.

Most likely there is a charge issue. A low charge could create the issues you are having.

Also, a faulty or defrost clock could also create issues if the system is freezing up.

L1 goes to 1-2 on Clock, L2 or Neutral to N on Clock, Defrost heater to 3 on Clock, Defrost Limit/Fan Delay to X on clock

I have a generic wiring diagram that I use on all my installs that works very well. It is basically the same for most all commercial walk in freezers. Send me a email address and I'll scan and forward what I have.

either the cold control thermostat is defective or the rtc overload contactor has welded itself together and cant open and close the power contacts to the unit,un plug the cold control and see if the unit stops then

you do not leave them alone they may have refrigerant flowing through them. look in your owners manual/instructions for more info.

All question need full 'make model (what it is)', first 3 words. Google make model wiring diagram. Brown or Red is normally power and blue is return. https://www.google.com/search?q=Freezer+with+loose+red+and+blue+cables ..

Question edited for clarity and add CAPS. It seems to be a common occurrence on that model due to bad design. https://www.fixya.com/support/t17110008-norfrost_c6aew_chest_freezer_compressor Norfrost is owned by Ebac. Contact their customer service. https://www.johnogroat-journal.co.uk/news/caithness-freezer-name-lives-on-in-england-170710/ https://www.ebac.com/support/customer-service Another way would be to study the wiring as it is pretty standard. The video may help. https://www.google.com/search?q=freezer+wiring+diagram You may be able to freeze this video to note the wiring, although this only shows the thermostat wiring and is a bit fuzzy. Also an refrigeration appliance technician would know the wiring by heart and take 20 minutes maximum to work it out.

The Frigidaire FFC13K2CW1 chest freezer has a capacity of 12.8 cubic feet. More info: https://www.partselect.com/Models/FFC13K2CW1/

Question edited to add maker! All questions need 'make model (what it is) as first three words. That is an overheating fault. Replace the fluff with no fluff. Make sure the condenser coils are free of dust and there is good airflow Or It is low on refrigerant gas and you need a service tech.. ..

Question edited for clarity. Duplicate question deleted. Refresh page to see you question. This is not a make I know. Things like drawers are usually readily available. This link may work better where you are located. https://www.google.com/search?q=BRADA+MF-305+parts Generic Drawer replacements https://www.google.ca/search?q=freezer+drawer+replacement&sca_esv=580628691&tbm=isch&sxsrf=AM9HkKk2I1HuWqUimTZskQkh3tRH3AJ6rA:1699481832834&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiZ0MqXt7WCAxUwL1kFHUrtBG0Q_AUoAnoECAIQBA&biw=1920&bih=919&dpr=1 ..

Is it on Economy Mode? That only chills the bottom area. Check the condenser fins are cleaned of dust. That needs doing every 6 months. Or it needs refrigerant gas. ..

There is normally a drain plug on the lower rear or sides. You probably have leaking door gasket. https://www.google.com/search?q=norfrost+aura+chest+freezer+drain+hole+location ..

There appears to have been a serious electrical problem in the freezer, possibly involving a short circuit or a broken part.it's best to contact a professional appliance repair technician

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Star Computers. Greetings from Toronto! It is made by Midea and sold to Walmart as a batch, "make us 10,000 at $100 each. We will sell for $280 until they are gone". All the retailers are out of stock including Amazon and Wilson's Home Store. Choose another make and model, bottom of this page. Home Depot, Leon's or The Brick are a good bet for Freezers. https://www.dontwasteyourmoney.com/products/arctic-king-arc070s0arbb-7-cubic-feet-chest-deep-freezer/

If your Traulsen 31300 freezer is cooling down to 28°F but not going below that temperature, and the compressor runs continuously except during the defrost cycle, there are a few tests you can perform to help diagnose the issue before considering replacing the expansion valve. Here are some steps to follow: 1. Check Airflow: Ensure that the airflow inside the freezer is not obstructed by any items or ice buildup. Verify that the evaporator coil is clean and not blocked. Poor airflow can lead to inadequate cooling. 2. Temperature Control Setting: Confirm that the temperature control setting on the freezer is correctly set to the desired temperature. Make sure it is not accidentally set too high or too low. 3. Condenser Coil Cleaning: Clean the condenser coils located either at the back or underneath the unit. Dust and debris accumulation on the coils can reduce cooling efficiency. Use a soft brush or vacuum cleaner to remove any dirt or debris. 4. Condenser Fan Operation: Check if the condenser fan is running properly. The condenser fan helps dissipate heat from the system. Ensure it is spinning freely and not obstructed. If it's not working, it may need to be replaced. 5. Check for Refrigerant Leaks: Perform a thorough inspection of the refrigerant lines and connections for any signs of leaks, such as oil spots, bubbles, or hissing sounds. If a refrigerant leak is suspected, it could be affecting the cooling performance, and repairing the leak and recharging the system may be necessary. 6. Pressure and Temperature Readings: To determine if the expansion valve is the culprit, you may need to take pressure and temperature readings at different points in the refrigeration system using specialized equipment. These readings can help identify any irregularities or inefficiencies in the system. 7. Consult with a Professional: If you're unsure about performing these tests or interpreting the results, it is recommended to seek assistance from a professional refrigeration technician. They will have the expertise and necessary tools to accurately diagnose the issue and provide appropriate solutions. By conducting these tests and inspections, you can gather more information to make an informed decision about replacing the expansion valve or pursuing other potential causes for the inadequate cooling.

Call the engineer back, it is not fixed. It is still leaking or there is another issue like the thermostat or the circulation fan.