Kenmore 24 in. 17482 / 17484 / 17489 Built-in Dishwasher - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Try a magnet.

Select the desired cycle. If you want to run the last cycle that was completed, you can simply press START once to show which options you used, then press START again to start that same cycle.

SOUNDS LIKE THE PLATES HAVE GONE YOU NEED NEW CLUCH PLATES

Yes that sounds like the best solution

Is the drain blocked? Pull off the sink end and blow down it to dislodge possible debris.

Check the fuse, breaker or plug.

Glue might help or replacing the busted part with a new replacement.

It blinks when everything is running normally. Be worried when it stops!
Seriously, this is a code to tell you what's wrong; contact manufacturer for a code list and the solution will be on it.

Internal fuse blown. Pull control panel and start hunting with a multimeter.

Washer or grommet has degraded. Pull off parts such as hoses and filters and arms to see if the issue can be easy to locate but if not, as long as the unit is running without issue, you may just have to leave it to work itself out. That is to say, it may not be important if it isn't causing any issues.

The most common "reset" key sequences are: Heated Dry - Normal - Heated Dry - Normal; or High Temp - Air Dry - High Temp - Air Dry; or Hi Temp Scrub, Energy Saver Dry, Hi Temp Scrub, Energy Saver Dry; or High Temp Wash, Heated Dry, High Temp Wash, Heated Dry). On some of the newer Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid dishwashers, you start the diagnostic cycle by rapidly pressing the 3 left-most keys in the following sequence: 1 2 3, 1 2 3, 1 2 3. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

So, you have power on both sides of the fuse, huh? How did you test that? Did you use one of those voltage detectors that light up when they get near a "hot" wire? If so, then I would tell you to make sure your white return line (neutral line) is NOT hot, because if it is, then you probably have a bad connection in your junction box for your white (neutral) line. But if all that's fine, then you EITHER have a bad control console, or a bad control board, and I would bet it's the control board. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

If the drain pump won't run, the most common cause is something hard (like a piece of glass or hard plastic) got into the pump and is blocking the impeller. If you want to fix it yourself, first unpug the dishwasher. Then you will need to either siphon the water out of the sump area or use a wet vac to suck out the water from the sump area. Then remove the toe-kick panel so you can get to the underside of the dishwasher. Depending on the model, you may be able to access the drain pump from there, or you may have to pull the dishwasher out. Then you can remove the end of the drain hose and check the area there. If that's okay, you can remove the drain pump by finding and pressing on the release button or lever, and turning it 1/8 turn counter-clockwise, If there's an obstruction, you will find it now. If no obstruction, then you probably have a bad drain pump and will need to replace it. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

Well, you don't have to rip the WHOLE machine apart, just the door! Usually takes about 6 to 8 screws (using a T15 torx screw driver). Depending on the model, you might only need to take off the lower half of the door (all below the control console), or you might have to take out all the door screws. Then remove the detergent dispenser (6 more screws, this time a 3/16" hex head). Then you can remove the wires to it (unplug the DW first!), and pop the dispenser out. Take it over to your sink and turn it upside down and shake it. You might try running hot water over the inlet port to clear up any dried-up residue. You will probably get some water into areas you don't want (like the coil and connectors), but when you are done, you can use a can of compressed air (or "duster" cans) to blow the water out. If that doesn't work, then you will probably need to replace the whole dispenser; but hey, you're already halfway there - you've removed the old dispenser. You can buy new dispensers at SearsPartsDirect.com, RepairClinic.com, EasyApplianceParts.com or AppliancePartsPros.com. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

That blinking light is trying to tell you that there is something wrong with your dishwasher. Watch that blinking light.... Does it blink 7 times, pauses, and repeats? Or does it blink 3 times (or some other number). The most common problem is 7 blinks which means "water not heating error". This could be caused by a bad heating element, a bad thermal cutoff or thermostat, a bad controller, or a problem with the door latch and/or switches. Usually there is a tech-data sheet located on the other side of the toe-kick panel which will explain the meaning of the varius blink codes, but you might still need to call a technician to fix the problem. Don't forget to put that tech data sheet back so he can find it and use it to fix your dishwasher! If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

Appliances branded with the Kenmore logo and sold through Sears are produced by other major manufacturers. So First: Using the Sears Model Prefix Chart, find out which manufacturer produced your appliance to find the right repair information. Locate the model number on your appliance and match up the first three digits before the decimal point of the model number to find the manufacturer. Then search the appropriate manufacturer Fault codes to diagnose (and hopefully fix) the problem .http://www.partselect.com/JustForFun/Fault-Codes.aspxwww.partselect.com/JustForFun/Sears-And-Kenmore-Appliance-Fault-Codes.aspx Sears and Kenmore Appliance Fault Codes If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_7f54ab9063554f66

Usually a tech data sheet is located on the other side of the toe-kick panel (if someone hasn't already stolen it!) If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

Remove the toe-kick panel located under and behind the dishwasher door (2 screws or 2 quick-release catches). Look on the other side of that toe-kick panel. There should be a technical data sheet stored in a little plastic pouch there (if someone hasn't stolen it), which will explain the meanings of the various blink codes. Don't forget to put that tech-data sheet back for the technician, in case you decide that you can't fix it yourself and decide to call a professional! If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

This part came out. can't remember where. Thoughts? Kenmore Elite dishwasher. Part #5600 010 997

Some times just turning off the power for a few minutes will reset the program--if not, in your instructions you should find what the flashing light is an indicator of--