20 Most Recent Nikon D3000 Digital Camera - Page 3 Questions & Answers

That is the factory setting. If had seen the image on the LCD before taking the picture, then there was something seriously wrong with the camera. The D3000 works as SLRs have worked for over half a century, providing you with a viewfinder to compose your photos.

You may be trying to hand-hold the camera in situations that call for a long shutter opening. These are usually indoor situations with with limited light, dark walls, etc or night time shots. To get an idea about the longest time you can hold a camera by hand with creating blurred pictures (without a tripod or other stable mount), look that the focal length of the lens. If it is a a zoom lens, this value changes depending on how far zoomed in or out you are. A 70mm-300mm zoom would have a focal length of 70 if zoomed out or widest, 300 if zoom in or narrowest or something between 70 and 300 if your not fully zoomed in or out. The lends will have indications as about the focal length you're current at. If it is not a zoom lens, it is a fixed or prime lens. You can only shoot at the focal length of the lens. Typical primes are 35, 50, 60, 85, 100, 105 etc. (but there are many more). Once you've determined what the focal length is, multiply by 1.5 (for DX sized sensors like the D3000 and others; FX bodies and 35mm film cameras skip this step of multiplying by a factor of 1.5). Let's assume you've got either a 50mm prime or an 18mm - 70mm zoom lens currently zoomed to 50mm. With the info above, 50 x 1.5 = 75. Next, find the reciprocal which is simple to do - just make it a fraction with a 1 on top, like this: 1/75. This fraction is the longest length of time in seconds that most people can hold a camera before shake appears in the captured image. The shorter the focal length or wider the shot, the longer it takes for the shake to be noticeable in the captured image. A few more examples follow: When the 18mm - 70mm lens is zoomed in to 20mm x 1.5 = 30; or 1/30 sec, when a 80mm-300mm lens is zoomed in at 100, 200 or more, that time plummets quickly: 200mm x 1.5 = 300; or 1/300 sec. 300mm x 1.5 = 450; or 1/450 sec. Use of a tripod, monopod, or other bracing is highly recommended. Additionally, you can try opening the aperture wider (a lower f stop number) and / or increasing the ISO value to 200, 400, 800 or more. The drawback to increasing the ISO is the introduction of digital "noise" or graininess. How much graininess that is acceptable is something only you can decide. Experiment by taking a number of pictures of the same subject (preferably with the camera on a tripod or table top) with a range of different ISO settings. Look at the results on a large screen - like your computer monitor - to get an idea about how the graininess or noise increases with each bump up of ISO. You will probably find that once you get to a certain value, it's not worth taking pictures. This will be your no go value - and you'll want to shoot at a lower ISO than this. it is not uncommon for this number to be as low as 200 or 400 with P&S (point a shoot) cameras and 800 on some entry and mid range dSLRs like your D3000 to as high as 3200 (or even more) on some higher end prosumer / professional bodies.You may also be having an issue with focus. If you have turned AF (auto focus) off, you'll have to focus manually. If you have AF on, but do not hear the focus motor in the lens - there could be a problem with the lens. Try removing and reaseting the lens on the camera body again. Try other lenses to determine if it is lens specific or camera body specific. Also, if there isn't enough contrast in the subject, the lens will not be able to find focus. Check again taking pictures of well lit subjects. You may find that your lens will not open wide enough to reduce exposure time. This is where the expensive f1.2, f1.8 and upwards to f2.8 shine. They gather 2, 3 or 4 times as much light in the same time as a f5.6 lens can. The drawback to these lenses is their cost.I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply, thanks.

-try to open the memory card on other devices such as memory card reader, or laptop card reader
-format the memory card using the options in camera menu
-the memory card is damaged, due to illegal operation or else => change it with the new one

Uh oh...you are going to need to service it....there is a sensor that prob got broke/disconnected when dropped. It will need to be professionally serviced. Sorry for the bad news!

You need to shoot in the Manual mode by turning the mode dial to "M". You have to set the shutter speed and aperture yourself, without any help from the camera's light meter. You can review the photo afterward and adjust the exposure accordingly. The histogram will help in this. Oh, and you also have to focus manually.

Could be the error has nothing to do with the rain at all. The camera is perhaps 4 years of age? some batteries last for 10 years. But some can't survive 2 or 3 years. All depends on how they were used or abused. When normal charged and discharged in a regular cycle, the battery can survive 1000 cycles. When left alone for very long periods it damages the battery. See if you know someone with a Nikon camera that uses the same battery and try his battery in your cam and put your battery (if he or she allows this) in the the other camera. If another battery works correct, no need to test your battery in another camera.You also could look in the battery compartment is the connection points are corroded by the water. ls check the contacts on the battery. Eventually clean it with contact fluid. don't scratch the contacts, because the will corrode very quick after that.

Did you press the lock/release button complete and did you hold it till the lens was rotated complete? You know the lens with Nikon goes the other way as with Canon?Looking to the front of the camera you have to rotate the lens clock wise on a Nikon. Counter clock wise on a Canon.

Yes, I'd say you blew either the battery or the camera. Just how did you try to charge the battery in the camera? Depending on how you tried this (and on how lucky you are) you may have blown just the battery. On the other hand, you may have blown the camera. Or both.

Might be the camera's battery terminals, not the battery itself. Take a qtip and some isopropyl aclohol and clean the terminals in the battery well of camera.

It is impossible to diagnose an exact solution from such a vague description but many times this is caused by a a failure of the motor in the SQ (sequence) unit

Try taking the lens off and remounting it.

Where did you get the $12 part? It looks fairly easy to repair, I just can't find the part any where.

Which lens? What are you trying to adjust: the focus, the aperture, the focal length?

If you remove the back cover, there is a flexible circuit on the bottom left that attaches to the rear circuit board. Check to make sure that there are not cuts in the lands caused by impact pressing the flex into the back board components. This is a common problem with this model.Note: replacing this calls for removal of the mirror box. Nikon stopped selling parts on July 13, 2012. You may be able to find it on Ebay.

This is usually caused by the motor in the SQ unit developing either a dead spot or a short

did you try a different lens if you did send your camera in for repair . the lens gets damaged easy

Dropping a D3000 is one to make you you say something badOutside of trying different lenses and memory cards, there\'s probably little anyone can tell you that you\'re going to like to hear. If it\'s a problem inside the camera, it should go back to Nikon for repairs. If you obtain an RMA from Nikon and send it in, they will evaluate it and give you a repair price. At that point you can decide whether or not to go through with repairs or cut your losses and buy a replacement.Good luck!

change the batt.