20 Most Recent American Pro VS1405 Car Audio Amplifier Questions & Answers

Check the primary fuse on the positive amp wire usually located near the + battery post. Also check any onboard fuses. If these check OK, make sure the remote lead has 12V+ on it when the head unit is turned on. If these all check out, the amp is most likely defective.

Ok do this little experiment when you turn on the car again disconnect the amp turn on wire from the amp. then get a small wire then strip back both ends with a wire stripper only exposing enough for the copper wire to show. then touch one end to the 12volt on the amp and touch the other end to the amp turn on terminal. The amp should come on and the sound should come on. Your problem then is your amp turn on connection is wrong and may be connected to the power antenna wire which may not be able to handle the load and shuts off so I suggest connecting it to the ignition wire so whenever the radio is on that wire will send 12 volts to the amp to turn it on. Sometimes On the back of the radio harness there are two blue wires. One is Blue and the other is blue white. Always connect it to the Blue white cause thats the amp turn on wire. The solid blue wire is the power antennna wire. Also possible the blue/white wire is sending a weak 12volt signal so just connect it to the red wire which is the ignition wire. Dont connect it to the yellow wire because thats constant 12 volt. If you connect it there the amp will always be on and drain your car battery and you might hear big loud buzz sound when you turn off your car.

Maybe the audio amplifiers IC are fried and need to be replaced

Sounds like the thermal protection on your amp is doing its job. You can put an external fan in to help in cooling, like the crossflow type shown here, or a couple of muffin fans like these (look familiar?). You may have fashion a bracket to mount the fan(s), but that shouldn't be too much of a problem. Many fans are shipped with mounting tabs attached.

I believe the answer is both. The amp gets too hot and cuts off the circuitry and causes the amp to go into protection.
Your amp is only designed to run at 2 and 4 ohms. What you need to do is check out this site and run your subs at a 2 ohm load.

If your subs are dual voice. Run + to + to +, - to - to - in box. Run + and -, + and - to amplifier in stereo. Your amp won't shut off anymore.

a possible explanation could be heating. the amp reaches its boiling point and cuts off. in this case, a fan may keep it from overheating. another option is a voultage problem, you may have to readjust the bias current. try measuring it if you know how). the amount of bias current depends on your output stage. something like: 20-50 mA for normal bipolar push pull probabely twice as much for darlington push pull and up to 250mA for MOS FET push pull.

Do you have the switch or activate wire on the new amp. to the right hookup? If you do, then theres a problem with the amp and if your not a tech these can be a difficult thing to trouble shoot. Take back the amp or seek out a pro to test it on a bench. Good Luck

YOU CAN USE A UNIVERSIAL UNIT WITH RCA''

You can bridge 2 channels, Not 4. The individual channels will fight each other and one will cook...