20 Most Recent Whirlpool Duet WFW9550 Washer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Yes, although it may be a little noisier.

In most cases because something is jamming the blower fan which also spins the drum. Or one of the drum wheels is stuck and the motor is struggling to get it going.

Common parts that leak on a front load washer: Door boot (also know as gasket or bellow), drain pump, intake system (which is either intake valves or soap dispenser). From my experience in that order. The door boot can be inspected from the inside although if you didn't find any holes could still be it. (so if you find a whole than it most likely it, but if you didn't find holes it does NOT rule it out since it has to be inspected properly from the inside.

Unplug the unit for a few minutes to see if it resets.

Sorry this answer is about 1 month late, but in case you're still having the issue, it is likely due to 1 of 2 possibilities (or combination of both). Most likely, the small inlet screen, located on the back, (where the hot water hose enters the machine) is clogged. This is a common problem that restricts the flow of hot water into the machine. To check or clean this, just unscrew the hot water hose where it enters the washer. It sits just inside that fitting. The other possibility is a bad or clogged inlet valve. The inlet valve controls the flow of hot and cold water into the machine. It is opened and closed via an electric solenoid (part of the intake valve unit). The inlet valve is the same unit that houses the screen I previously mentioned, and is just inside the back panel of the washer, where the two inlet hoses thread onto.

It is a sud error. Watch this vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjeBIn42hys

There should be a tag on it somewhere that tells the date of it being manufactured.

If you have mold on the rubber gasket of your Duet front loader, I can almost assure you that you have lots of mold in other places in the machine. Front loading washing machine are almost hermetically sealed and if the door is left closed, the inside just never dries out. This is just a perfect environment for the growth of mold and other fungi. Once mold gets established in materials such as rubber gaskets, it can be very difficult if not impossible to eradicate because mold grows "roots" deep into the pores of the material, making it very difficult to remove. Eradicating the mold may result in damage to the gasket since my "cure" is to paint on full strength bleach on the moldy surfaces with a brush or sponge (wear gloves). Repeat if necessary. You may wind up having to replace the front door gasket to get all of it. It will probably take more than one application to fully eradicate the mold from the VISIBLE surfaces of the rubber gasket. If you remove the detergent dispenser and peer inside the opening, you may see a lot more mold inside the cavity. If you see mold inside the detergent dispenser cavity, imagine what the rest of the inside of your machine must look like. Do you run a periodic cleaning cycle as advised in the operating manual? Have you read the operating manual? Do you use the absolute minimum amount of HE (non foaming) detergent? Factory instructions for cleaning the door gasket call for mixing 3/4 cup of bleach into 1 gallon of warm water and applying this mixture to the affected gasket area, let stand 5 minutes and wipe the area down with a dry cloth. My experience has shown that this is a grossly inadequate concentration to deal with a deeply seated mold problem in the door gasket. To run the cleaning cycle, the factory calls for 2/3 cup of bleach to be added to the bleach dispenser. "Use of more than 2/3 cup of bleach will cause product damage OVER TIME". Initially, I would definitely consider using a whole lot more bleach than recommended and run two or more consecutive cleaning cycles. Then EVERY USE OF THE MACHINE: wipe the door gasket and all the creases and folds dry with a sponge, remove the detergent dispenser and wipe the cavity dry, leave the drawer out to dry on a clean towel, leave the door open, buy a cheapy plastic box fan and place it inside the machine and let it blow air around the inside of the machine for an hour or so to dry it off quickly, run a cleaning cycle at least once a month. If this sounds too involved or difficult, I would suggest switching to a top loading washer that is much less prone to develop mold growth as air can circulate in these types of machines to a much greater extent than the front loaders.

Capacity = 3.3 Cu Ft Whirlpoolcorp.com download manual: http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search_results.jsp?searchTerm=WFW8300SW0&siteCd=WHRCOM&userType=Consumer#

The breakdown for Whirlpool Serial Numbers is:

1st Alpha Character = Manufacturing Division Code.

2nd Alpha Character = Year Manufactured (See Tables).

1st and 2nd Digit = Week of Year Manufactured.

3rd though 7th Digit = Order of Manufacturing that Week. http://www.electrical-forensics.com/MajorAppliances/WhirlpoolDateCodes.html If this was helpful, please rate post

Are there any codes displayed on the display panel?

A quick cheap solution is to pour a bottle of white vinegar into a wash cycle and see if that cleans the tub. But, it may seem to me to be a hard water problem as you do not indicate if your water source is from a well or city water. The usual solution for iron in your source water is for you to invest in a water softener unit.

I would strongly advise advise against this you have residue detergent in the tub no idea how the two chemicals will react may foam and cause a suds error may eat at rear tub bearing may damage tub to drain pump hose, water leaking into drum the inlet valve are not filling seating rust water will cause this the rubber diaphragms swell and the valve cannot close completely

Need full model number to help

Most modern washers use little water. Let it do a wash cycle and see if the results are satisfactory. If not good enough there is a way to allow more water to be used. Give it a go first.

Check to see if your water supply hoses are set to allow water to flow to washer. The code refers to a water supply problem. Is there a clog in the hoses? Also, read this tech sheet from Whirlpool: https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/a9c27c267a3fa32785256a45005190c7/4048ac9ad5177883852574500049997b/$FILE/duet_f20_code.pdf

Repairing the F02 error code can usually be done without ordering parts. Tools needed to repair your whirlpool Duet F02 error code are towels and a quarter inch socket. Tip the washer back at a 45 degree angle. On the bottom panel there are three or four screws, with the screws removed the panel will slide down and off. With the lower access panel now removed you will have access to the washers drain pump clean out. With the water already bailed from the washer you can twist the filter head counter-clockwise to remove. Twisting the filter head counter-clockwise will loosen filter so it can be pulled out. With the filter out clean and install it back into washer. Run a quick cycle to ensure the washer is back up and running and the F02 error has disappeared. If the error comes back, it may require you to clean the drain pump filter again.