20 Most Recent Whirlpool Duet Sport HT WFW8400TE Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Have water tempature sensor problem!!!Check connection to it and resistance of heating element!!!

Just had the same problem with my 9250 Duet and fixed it this morning. The F02 code is a "long drain" code. It could be because something is blocking the external drain line, the internal drain line, the pump filter, or the wash basin. I fussed with mine intermittently for about a year, resetting it so it would run thru the cycle, until one day (yesterday) that wouldn't work. Opted to give a shot at fixing it, since repairman couldn't be here until at least Monday, and THEN wanted $90 just for the service call. Anyway, using a Torx bit, unscrewed the 3 screws on the front cover. Directly in front of you, at the center front of the machine, is a plastic apparatus with a motor attached to it. SLOWLY untwist the (apx 2.5") plastic cap. However, BE PREPARED. The water that remains in your washer will ALL come out. If it comes out all at once, there is a problem from the filter cap (which may have junk in it which caused the problem in the first place)to the outside line (i.e. bad pump, clogged drain line from pump to exterior drain line). If it all drains out slowly (like mine), or not at all, the obstruction is from the wash basin TO the pump filter. Using Robo-Grip pliers, I removed the hose clamp at the bottom of the wash basin (easily located by following the black rubber drain line to its origin), and quickly found the problem: a giant ***** of YUCK (easily 5 cups worth, no kidding) which had accumulated around the float (situate inside the rubber drain line) and the washer drain basin itself. Pulled it all out, put it all back together, and it works GREAT! And the hardest part (no kidding) was getting the hose clamp back on the drain line/float apparatus. Hope this helps you, and that this post is not too late. BTW, I am in no way a mechanical genius, so I HIGHLY recommend that anyone attempt fixing it before calling the repair man.

you will have to flush out with full cream milk on rinse cycle to stop foaming may take a few goes with so much detergent.

Remove the lower kick plate and see if you can tell where the leak is coming from. Post back the results.

It should start back up when the suds have cleared. Though you may need to manually restart the machine. If you don't use high efficiency (he) detergent you are likely to get the suds error frequently.

What happens is that regular detergent creates too many suds. When the machine drains the water emptys first leaving a layer of suds. The pump can't move suds because of it's poor design. Try to imagine a hose filled with suds with a small impeller at one end. The impeller can pull the suds immediately around it away but anything out of it's reach will just sit there till they pop.

Likewise, the pressure switch can't detect a lack of pressure because the suds (being ornery little clusters of air) sit in the space that should be occupied by water, or in this case no water. Fooling in effect, the pressure switch into behaving as if the tub still contains water. Once enough bubbles pop the pressure switch will do it's thing and the time display will start where it stopped as does the rest of the cycle, in this case final spin. Or it may give an error code and go into standby mode.

Unless you just use way too much detergent ten minutes should be way more than enough time for suds to pop or about anything else to correct itself. So if it doesn't start back up on it's own try to restart it yourself.

The other possibility is that there is debris in the drain hose that goes from tub to drain pump. Or if drain pump has a clean out basket as part of the drain pump it will likely need cleaned as well.

Here is the service manual to help you disassemble the unit. I hope you find it!

The "F5" error means that the temperature sensor has recorded an unusual reading while using hot water. This usually is a sensor error rather than a malfunction of your hot water heater.Check the temperature sensor connection. The sensor may be moved out of place or disconnected. Remove it from the plug and plug it back in to reset the connection. If the error appears again, replace the sensor on the washer.

Let's see if we can get it into diagnostic mode and check for any fault codes. Make sure the dryer is in standby mode, plugged in with all the indicators off. Select any button except the PAUSE/CANCEL button. PRESS/HOLD 3 SECONDS > RELEASE FOR 3 SECONDS > PRESS/HOLD 3 SECONDS > RELEASE FOR 3 SECONDS > PRESS/HOLD 3 SECONDS. If test mode was entered successfully all indicators will illuminate for 5 seconds with 88 showing in the two digit display. If there are no saved or active fault codes all indicators will momentarily turn off then stay on with 88 in the display. If there are any fault codes, the most recent one will alternately show F- and "XX " where XX is the fault code. and all the cycle indicators will flash. If you can't enter the test mode try a different button. Lets start there.

Make sure your drain hose is placed up at least as high as the top of the machine .. it has to be at that level to work properly. If you have low drain pipes just get some pvc that will fit snugly a little longer in lenglth to raise the drain hose up. Works like a charm.

The SUD message relates to overdose of detergent detected during the Wash Cycle.This may signify a bad pump, an extra heavy load, excessive detergent or excessive suds.If too much detergent was used, run the washer through a Rinse/Spin cycle, then a Normal cycle, without adding any detergent. This should clear the unit of the excess detergent. Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.

WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR ERROR If the water temperature sensor (NTC) value is out of range (23F to 217F[-5C to 103C]) during the water-heating step of the WASH cycle. NOTE: To find correct Ohm reading refer to the Water Temperature Sensor section.1. Unplug washer or disconnect power. 2. Check the water temperature sensor and connection to it. 3. Check resistance of heating element, if present on this model. (abnormal = infinity) 4. Refer to the Water Temperature Sensor section.

see this causes and diagram. God bless youWater Inlet Valve If the hose connections are good to the water inlet valve check that water is not leaking from the valve itself it is replace the water inlet valve. Drain Pump Check the drain pump housing and all hose connections. The drain pump is down under neath. To disassemble your washer follow the appropiate tutorial. Hoses can be tightened. If hoses or pump housing is leaking replace the pump assembly. Tub Seal This is in the center of the tub. The seal is inexpensive but will require some labor to install. Check the tutorials on disassembling the cabinet then remove the agitater and inner tub. Enter your model # above for a diagram or illustration.

The tray can be removed by pulling the tray out until it stops by itself, then push down the release latch inside of the dispenser and then you can pull it out the rest of the way. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Possible that the tub is cracked or there is a dent which must be checked. if the leak, is visible and comes from the tub you can use some good sealer with glue to stop the leak. this can be polished off. You also try with silicon sealing which comes in small tubes and can fix this leak.

remove the toe kick panel at the bottom of your washer and inside you will find the drain pump. once you locate the pump, pull washer from wall so you can tilt it back against the wall. Then remove the cap in the front of the drain pump and clean, if it is clean , set washer back down and remove the wires from pump motor. set your multimeter to VAC and plug into wires. set the washer to drain&spin and start. if you have 120 volts replace the drain pump. if you have no voltage replace main control. go to this guidance and location of parts. http://www.partselect.com/MultiModels.aspx?ModelNum=WFW8400TE&searchTerm=&RefineSearch=0