20 Most Recent Kenmore 12502 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

Check your lid switch. A bad lid switch will kill the spin and some models other things check this first. Can you see or hear if the motor is running? If the motor is running check the coupler from the motor to the transmisson. If the motor is not running the motor may be bad or not getting power. Hope this helps.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.

Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often interrelated..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out thistip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkoutthis tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

Hi,

If your washing machine will not fill, only hot or cold will fill or is slow tofill then read these tips. I have covered many of the things that can happen inthese tips...


Washing Machine Problems No Water

Washing Machine Fix Washing Machine No Water

heatman101

Hi, first thing to check if your washer is not pumping or spinning is to see if the motor is running. If the motor is not running then check the pesky lid switch. When the lid gets slammed it hammers that switch and eventually will bend it or break it completely. Some washers will wash but not spin or pump, others will do nothing. This switch is located under the lid on the edge of the frame around the lid. Often there is a hole that a pin from the lid will go through and push on a lever that is the switch. Check that it is not simply bent, so that it does not trip the switch inside anymore. To change or check the switch the top will need to be raised or the front removed. Getting to it, is often harder then the replacement.

If the motor is running then you may have a broken pump belt or a broken or frozen pulley. If the belt is broken replace it. To check the pulley, remove the belt and then check to see if the pulley turns freely. If it does not, replace it.

If you are pumping, but not spinning, then you will need to again check the lid switch. Next on the list is the motor coupling. Many washers made are actually Whirlpool. These washers all use a coupler that is made of plastic and rubber and they will wear out after some time. This couples the motor to the transmission. If it breaks it will need to be replaced.

Other machines use belts. These belts can become stretched and then will not grip the pulleys to spin them at the proper speed. This also will often give that burning rubber smell. Be sure to replace these belts with washing machine belts as they are specially made for this purpose and are often not the same as regular automotive belts.

Drive motors are often a source of trouble. These motors often run in forward and reverse. They spin one way to agitate and the other to spin. Just because it works in one direction, does not mean that the other direction cannot be burnt out. This often happens and just because “it works” people think the motor is okay. The motor still needs to be replaced if either direction goes bad.

GE manufactured washers use a clutch system. This slowly bring the spin cycle up to speed as the water goes out of the washer. When this becomes worn the spin will not be as fast or may not spin at all. If your clutch needs to be replaced, you may want to hire that out as it is quite a project for most DIY’ers.

The final problem would be the bearing or basket drive. This gets worn or even will get tight so that the basket will not spin freely. If this goes bad you will usually have excessive noise when the washer spins. This too is a project that you may want help with.

As you can see there are many things that can go wrong to make problems with the spin cycle of a washer. You will have to do some detective work to figure out exactly what the problem is with your washing machine.

Take care

replace the dog ears in the upper part of the agitator not expensive and not hard to do ,,,, pop the cap off the upper agitator remove the 7/16 bolt and lift off the upper part and replace the plastic dog ears and reinstall!

If the washer does not agitate or spin, but will still drain, a likely cause is a broken motor coupling. Another common symptom is being able to hear the motor running, or a loud rattling sound, as the drive motor engages, but the tub no longer spins.

Whirlpool uses a motor coupling in the place of a drive belt. It is located between the drive motor and and gearcase (transmission). This configuration is known as a "direct-drive" system. It is common for the coupler to wear out with age and break. Newer versions of this coupler are more resilient and resist breakage. The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574231-replacing_a_motor_coupling

The part number for the improved motor coupling is included in the link I provided. The average cost is about $10-$15. you can purchase a replacement at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop and compare. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction. Another issue that might cuase this dissruption is the Motor coupler.

Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.

Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.

There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.

Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.

**(((If the motor couple is in good condition, replace the agitator components and clutch assembly as well.)))

The most common problem is the lid switch. with a screw driver in hand open the lid and press down on the lid switch. sometimes the mounting screws will crack the switch housing and the striker can't move the actuator far enough. I am interested in the clicking noise, as this could indicate a pump issue or a sock seizing up the tub.

Sounds like washer mites. Put some cheese on the top of the washer after the load finishes. Then leave for at least 60 minutes. The mites will eat the cheese, be satisfied, and your wash will be good next time.

I removed the drain hose from the bottom left rear corner of the washer & cleaned a large amount of gooey sludge from the bottom of the drain inside the washing machine.