20 Most Recent Kenmore 44072 Front Load Washer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

with the machine unpluged and freestanding from the wall.at the back of the top panel you will find two screws remove and slide the top off,you see a large cement block get an old duvou/heavy blanket and wrap it inside over the block and top of machine,keeping the drum and block as tight as possiable.dont forget to remove after moving.adrianxxx

If your washer has a selector switch on the control panel, make sure the button for your selection is pressed all the way in, or set properly. Clutch assembly Some washers use a clutch and an automatic shift lever. This assembly is quite complicated. If there's a problem with it, you probably should contact a qualified appliance repair technician. Drive motor Many washing machines have multiple-speed drive motors. Though it's uncommon, the drive motor may work fine on one speed but not on another. If the drive motor has failed on one speed, you need to replace the entire motor.

Does the washer was loaded when you make the diagnnostic test ?

I have the same problem...the solution is called new washer. I was told it could be overhauled to the tune about $600...barrings are going out. Mine is just 7 years old and that's disappointing.

if you had a power failure latly or a power surge it might have knocked the program on the machine.Push and hold the stop/start button for about 10,seconds it should reset if that fails again hold the stop button and another ie rince hold/power save or whatever buttons you have i just cant remember which one there are so many,but try the first option first it should reset.adrian,,,,,,,,

Hi this could means that you may need to replace the washing machine bearings. Once the bearings are bad, the motor overheats and it will automatically shut down after the first rinse.

Timonty from WashingMachineAdvisor.com

Unfortunately, when mold and mildew impregnate the rubber door boots on these models, it's nearly impossible to get it to go away. I would recommend replacing the door boot and follow these diligent preventive measures to keep the problem from coming back: 1. Check the area in and around the door boot after each wash for lost articles of clothing like underwear and socks. Also, clean out any lint or debris that collects under the boot. You might want to think about using a mesh garment bag for small items in the future. 2. Wipe the area periodically with a towel to get rid of the accumulation of soap deposits and dirt. This means wiping BEHIND the door boot where it meets the wash tub as well. I recommend waiting until you get ready to do a load of towels. Clean the area with a towel, then throw it directly in the wash. 3. Leave the door OPEN between washes to allow the door boot to air dry. Due to the nature of these door seals, they seal air tight and create an environment for mildew and mold to grow. 4. Run the washer with no load on the hottest cycle you have with nothing but bleach about once a week to keep bacteria to a minimum, and to flush the drain lines and pump. The door boot costs about $80 to replace, but it may be your only solution to getting rid of the smell and bacteria. Let me know if you decide to replace it. I can give you some pointers.

Try cleaning the filter and make sure you use correct amounts of HE soap If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

(Posted this already, but found an AU site that sells Norwex detergent - a great product!)

We've had our Fridgidaire front load washer for 6 years now, and untilabout 2 months ago, it smelled absolutely horrible. I tried the thingsI was told to do....hot water/bleach cycle, wiping the slime from therubber seal, and leaving the door open....it didn't work.

Iwas told about Norwex laundry detergent - Norwex is a company whichproduces green cleaning products - the detergent is a quicklybiodegradable, highly concentrated powder, and all I need is 1/4 - 1/2a teaspoon per load. After about one week of using the Norwex detergentI noticed that the smell was completely gone and hasn't returned! Also,the gross slime that used to collect in the rubber seal is no longer aproblem. I've been so wonderfully amazed!

I don't know why thisdetergent fixes the smell problem, but I've talked with others who havehad the same great results with it - their smell issue was solved.Perhaps it's because it contains no animal fat products?

Anotherbenefit of the Norwex detergent is how economical it is - it comes in a2kg bag for about $25, and in a front load machine you will get approx.800 loads from it using the above mentioned quantity/load! It's reallyan amazing product! You can buy it online - www.norwexnaturallyclean.com.au (an Australian site) is a great site to buy from. Good luck with the smell!

Spray the machine with Shower Witch and then leave it for 24 hour, then put the machine on for a full cycle with nothing in the machine but water. Doesn't matter if it is a hoy or cold wash.
This will solve the problem.

Check you 4 springs are ok 2 top 2 bottom with struts...Next make sure concrete weights are not loose also the machine is level...if excessive play on inner drum then this says possible bearing problem....

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on what you've described...you likely need a door lock/switch assembly, at least that is where I`d start.

The door latch is likely the single most common fault (which prevent's any spin, and consequently drenching wet clothing at the end of the cycle) with the frigidaire/electrolux built washer's, aside from pump's being obstructed.

I think it fool's many people because the lock indicates it is energized on the panel, however the built in "monitor" switch inside the assembly fail's. I do see a lot of these particular machine's...unfortunately.

You should be able to purchase one at most local brick & mortar stores or on-line part's depot's such as "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclininc.com" to name a couple. They usually sell for about $50 or so, part # 1531974 ( # at repairclinic.com ) and are relatively easy to replace. It should resemble the image here...





As for replacing said switch, There are a couple ways to access it, through the top and squeezing your arm down the front or the way I prefer, remove the front bellows spring/retainer.

1) **unplug the washer from the wall...safety first of course.**

2) Remove the spring, get it started where the spring is located with a small screwdriver. Once you`ve got the spring/retainer off ( it comes off and on pretty easy by hand ) pull the gasket/bellows back away from the cabinet.









3) Undo the two screws holding the switch to the cabinet, pull the switch out ( there is just enough slack in the wires so don`t pull too hard ) and swap the wires from the old assembly to the new one and you`re in business.




4) To put it back together, just reverse the removal procedure. The trickiest part is the retainer. Rap the retainer around the boot leaving the spring for the last...and make sure the spring is located at the 6 o`clock position...usually. Just wherever it was initially.

Let me know if you need further assistance going forward or if my instructions are not clear.

P.S.
There is a chance of a faulty motor or motor control board, considering the issue of the power surge, but that would not be where I would direct you to start...those are exceptions rather than the rule.


Thank you for visiting FixYa today. Good luck. Please take moment to leave a testimony or rate the solution to it`s usefulness to your problem.

Regards,


Macmarkus :)

If a coin goes in the drain line and is the same diameter it can stay in and sometimes flip and act as a flapper. One time it may be open and the next flip and close the line off. Take the line off and try and see if it is obstructed.