I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Hello, If water is leaking from the door most likely you have a tear or a rip in the bellows which is the rubber piece that connects the outter tub to the front cabinet. Look around in the fold of the bellows this is usually where you will find the tear. If you have any further questions message me back. Thanks Rick
um you can have your issue repaired by a sears service man and part and still come out ahead more than likely your control board is bad it happens bu 250-300 bucks verse 1000 seems well worth is just contact sears and pay the service tech and buy part you wont be sorry its all electronic now had simmilar issue please after your issue is resolve leave me 4 stars to show you care it helps me continue to help people like you and others thanks so much
The knocking noise is a symptom of a broken spinner support assembly, a.k.a, spider assembly. This is the three-arm assembly that holds the basket to the shaft. Unlike the basket which is stainless, the spider is made of aluminum
that corrodes with time and usually breaks during the 5th or 6th year of
the machine.
The sad thing is, the spinner support can be very rarely purchased separately. It
always, if not all time, comes as a complete assembly with the basket which is covered by at
least a 10-year warranty. The most frustrating fact is that the spinner
support is not covered by the same warranty even though they come as an
assembly which make it a non-economical repair to invest with.
You can tell that the spider assembly has indeed broke if you remove the rear panel, remove the drive belt, turn the drive pulley manually and you hear the knocking sound thereat. Another obvious sign is the front of the wash basket sagged. There's a protruding screws that ironically found at the sides of the basket and when the basket sags, the screws scrape the tub and consequently the tub leaks. The videos below shall give you further information on this matter. The machines featured here are probably different from your machine but the ideas are the same.
Press Pause/Cancel twice and/or unplug the machine or flip the beaker off for at least 15 minutes to forcibly reset the controls and eliminate the possibility of an electronic glitch. The door can be manually opened by means of the door release tab. Remove
the three screws attaching the lower front access panel to the cabinet
then pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You can prop up the bottom
front edge of the washer or cushion and lean it against the wall to
access and remove the screws more easily.
Once the panel is off,
reach up along the inside of the front panel and locate the bottom of
the door lock and switch assembly on the right side. Locate the
tear-drop shaped tab then gently pull it down until a click is heard,
and then open the door.
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Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
You have not mentioned the filter (receptacle??) so JUST in case but no promises try this!
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!) It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
The F70 and F71 error codes on this model of washer indicates a communication problem between the user interface control board and the central control unit (main control board). These error codes can sometimes be caused by a power surge or glitch through the electrical lines. Try unplugging the washer to completely disconnect electrical power. Wait 1 minute and then plug the washer back in to the see if the fault code clears. If it does, then the washer may work normally.
If the code reappears, then you could have a wire harness connection problem, a failed user interface control board or a failed central control unit. I recommend calling a service technician to properly diagnose and repair this type of problem so that the correct component can be replaced.
Be sure your unit is plugged into a 3 prong grounded outlet as well.
F71 is a "heatbeat failure" which means that your front interface control board is shorted and will need to be replaced. it's actually fairly easy to replace and can definitely be done by yourself. To access the part, just pull the unit forward and remove the 3 screws coming in from the back of the top panel. Remove the top panel by pulling it back, up, and off. Then remove all the screws going into the top of the control panel. Remove the dispenser drawer and remove the screws coming in through the dispenser. Remove the screws coming from the inside of the dryer going forward into the control panel, then remove the control panel (it's just clipped in on the bottom. After that you can disconnect the wire harnesses to the front interface control board and replace that part.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
The F70 error is a control failure that occurs when a signal from the main control to the interface (touch pad) is not detected. This can be caused by a loose harness connection at the interface or main control. The image below will show how to remove the top so you can check for lose connections. Be sure to unplug the washer first.
The F70 is an internal control problem. It can be caused by a failed central control board or an interface problem. The way to determine which part is bad when the error occurs is as follows: * If the error occurs when the machine is running then the problem is the interface. * If the error occurs when the washer is not running the problem is the central control unit.
The control and the interface are available from the following link: Sears PartsDirect . Use your model number to order the correct part for your washer.
Hope this helps (remember to rate and comment this answer).
Based on your description...you likely have a faulty inlet water valve.
The valve # is 8182862 and varies in pricing around $40 - $75...double check with your specific model number when inquiring.
It should be available at most brick and mortar appliance part locations or if you prefer on-line shopping try "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclinic.com" or "appliancepartspros.com" to name a few.
To swap out the valve simply follow these steps...
**Unplug the unit from the wall before attempting any repairs suggested here...safety first**
1) turn off the water and unfasten the hot & cold fill hoses going to the washer.
2) remove the three screws along the back of the top panel and then slide the top panel back slightly and pull up. The panel should lift away.
3) in the left rear corner ( when observing from the front of the washer )you should now see the valve.
4) remove the wires, carefully the harness has little release tabs which must be bent back slightly to pull the wire & harness off.
5) remove the hose to the dispenser assembly, a pair of pliers or vise-grips works well here.
6) remove the screw on the outside back wall of the washer and pull the valve out, voila !
Reverse order to put the new one in "voila", and good job. You potentially saved yourself $200 or more for parts and labour.
Hope this answers your question but more importantly solves your problem.
Thanks for choosing FixYa for your repair solutions today. Let me know if you need further assistance. Please take a moment and rate the solution provided for you as well as a testimony is appreciated on free solutions. Good luck. Regards, Macmarkus :)
The F02 error code is for a long drain. (See image below).
Without a model number I am only able to provide you with generic instructions. I have included a set of illustrated instructions you will need to check drain pump filter. (See images below). Once the bottom panel is removed the drain pump filter cover looks like a gas cap. Remove that and then remove any foreign objects. If the drain pump is clear it probably needs to be replaced.
Hello,
Welcome to FixYa.
To address your question, the F21 indicates a long drain time has been detected. What that usually really means is the pump filter is clogged. Click on the link or alternatively copy & paste my link below and you'll find detailed guide on what to do. Good luck.
http://www.fixya.com/support/t7710198-code_f02_washer_will
Regards,
Macmarkus :)
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Kenmore (Whirlpool) 'F21' decodes as 'control unit failure'. This could be caused by some bad internal connections but whatever requires a service call, sorry ;-0(
Good luck, John C
This is a general remedy for most Whirlpool made front-load machines, such as Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana etc.The "Sd" or "F2" is the same as F21 on most Whirlpool washer's and indicates the machine has detected too much soap or a obstruction in the drain process.
Chances are the pump itself is being obstructed by debris or some other foreign object as opposed to being faulty, although the faulty pump can`t be ruled out...yet. **This is also the reason for a no spin & the "suds" message if applicable**
Here`s how to check it and clean it...
**Turn off the breaker at the service panel or unplug the washer from the wall socket...safety first**
1) locate the screws in front at the very bottom of the panel below the door and pull the panel down and forward until it is off. They will be either 1/4" hex head or #20 torx head screws.
2) You will immediately see the drain pump in front of you with a large removable filter. ( **see image below...this is were a wet-dry shop vac and towels come in handy, also the use of the removed panel as a catch pan is beneficial...but you may still get wet )3) Turn it counter-clockwise should allow you to remove it and inspect it and clean it out. Make a good thorough inspection inside the pump as well not just the removable filter. 4) Re-insert the filter and before placing the panel back run a test rinse/drain cycle to inspect for leaks and to verify the unit drains and spins now.
( If the problem still exist`s the Sd or "F2" or "F21" will re-appear. If so you`ll need to check the hose/rubber bellows from pump to tub...back-flow ball...for other obstructions ).
5) If all appears OK after your efforts, well your efforts paid off...pat yourself on the back. You just saved yourself potentially a couple hundred bucks !
Now You should be good to go. Re-attach the lower panel and you`re back in business.
**NOTE: if this still fails to remedy the Sd, F2, F21 or if it returns immediately during the next drain you may require a pump unfortunately...part # 280187 available at "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclinic.com" etc.
**This however can also be caused by the back-flow ball inside the bellows which connects the tub to the pump. There is a large clamp which secures it to the tub, but if you remove it to clean out all the dirt built up inside, make sure you get it good and secure when putting it back.** Let me know how it goes and if you require further assistance. Thanks for choosing FixYa. Please take a moment to rate the solution provided for you here today. Good luck
There's a button on the panel, bottom left, which has small print under
it with instructions to press and hold three seconds to unlock the
controls. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514
I mostly answer front load problems but ' out of balance' is a common problem with both! So- I don't know your particular machine but the initial cure is the same. It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine, even when empty, has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0)
Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then- very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine (sorry about my UK spelling!) and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice. Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up! If this corner did not rock do the same to the other. Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.
If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal drum suspension is malfunctioning.
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
If it's new I would certainly report back to where you bought it. It COULD have been used as a demonstrator, for instance, and there to be water and stuff in the drain filter- difficult to know without being there.
Also could the smell be coming from the plumbing u-bend?
If it's only 'new to you' I would suggest following my guidance notes on filters-
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Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!
Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C
Reverse order to put the new one in "voila", and good job. You potentially saved yourself $200 or more for parts and labour.
3) Turn it counter-clockwise should allow you to remove it and inspect it and clean it out. Make a good thorough inspection inside the pump as well not just the removable filter.
