20 Most Recent Kenmore 22062 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

it is always a good idea to drain a washer before moving. this will cause less problems in the long run

check the water inlet solinoid to see if its working

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11092283800/0582/0153200?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=11092283800

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

I'd first verify that the Motor Coupler that you replaced is installed correctly with the plastic pieces firmly pushed onto the motor and gearcase shafts and the center rubber coupler seated on the "prongs" If you verified this,

This problem points to a couple of places:

The first unfortunately is the motor. Kenmore / Whirlpool top load direct drive washers use a reversing motor.

When in agitate mode, the motor turn one way, When in spin mode it turns the other way for draining and spinning.

I'd check the following first before assuming that it's the motor though.


First, I'd pull the agitators and check for worn or damaged splines inside the agitator or on the agitator shaft.

Following is a description of how to take them out.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the agitator and shaft are OK, the problem may be in the transmission.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and service manual for top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

I'd also look at the troubleshooting section of the manual.


Starting at page 10, you'll see a description of how the transmission changes from agitate to spin mode.

The key (and likely problem) is the "agitator spring".

The spring holds the agitate gear down so that the two sets of splines on the agitate gear are connected and the agitate rack can turn the agitators.

See the following Whirlpool parts list for a blow-up of the transmission and how the various gears and springs connect.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

See the following for how to remove the transmission and clutch.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Tearing apart the transmission is a bit messy but if the problem is the spring or agitate cams, it's a lot less expensive to fix than a $170 transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight gear oil.

Remove the transmission cover and drain the oil.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Carefully remove the clip that holds the main Spin Gear on and remove it.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

Check the spring, Agitate Cams and the cams in the Neutral Drain Assembly.

Re-assembly is obviously the reverse of taking it apart.

In answer to your other questions:

If you're reasonably comfortable with tools you can fix it yourself.

When we had a problem with ours, we ended up spending less than $30 replacing the agitate cams, neutral drain assembly and oil instead of $170 for a transmission. It was worth fixing.

As an aside, tearing the washer apart will give you the opportunity to completely clean it.

The LD fault code indicates that the washer took longer than 5 minutes to pump out the water and reset the water level pressure switch. You should be able to press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display.

Check you drain hose for kinks or clogs. You could have a clog or failure in the drain pump that is causing this problem

Does it spin?

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If you look at the section on "Machine Base Parts" you'll see a number of springs and vibration pads.

It's possible that one or more of the springs or pads has come loose or broken.

In order to get to them you have to remove the cabinet.

Here is a description of how to do it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=90fdc122f6335c7c64f46f2ea1b1c887


Also see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load washers. It has a troubleshooting section that describes the reasons for excessive walking or vibration.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


If it's not the springs or pads, you may consider that the "Agitator Cams" in the transmission are not raising the Agitator Gear high enough (about 1/16" ) when the washer goes into spin mode.

See the description of what the Cams do in the Service Manual.

We had the same problem, excessive vibration and noise during the spin cycle.

In order to solve that problem, :

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

It sounds a bit complicated but it really isn't too bad and (For a $15 part, saved buying a $170 transmission.)

Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question!!!!

Hello, LD stands for long drain.
If all the water isn't out of the unit within a certain time, the ld will flash.
Could be 2 things.

1) There's lint stuck in the pump preventing the water to drain properly or

2) You're using too much soap causing lots of suds also preventing the pump from draining properly. If this is the case, what you need to do is run the washer on full load with no detergent and clothes. Let it go thru the cycle and get rid of eccess suds. This is most likely your problem.

Best of luck :)

If a status signal comes back from the motor controller that a current limit has been breached, the unit will return to standby mode and display either "CA" for average current limit trip or "CI" for instantaneous current limit trip.

Average current trip occurs if there is a 2 second average of current draw greater than 5.55 Amps at the motor windings.

Instantaneous current trip occurs if there is a spike of 26 Amps instantly at the motor windings.

This may signify problems with the drive motor, thermal protector or motor controller. Overloading the unit may cause this problem.

Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display

If this was helpful please rate me.
IMUFO2
Leo Ponder Appliance-Tyler,Texas

If a status signal comes back from the motor controller that a current limit has been breached, the unit will return to standby mode and display either "CA" for average current limit trip or "CI" for instantaneous current limit trip.

Average current trip occurs if there is a 2 second average of current draw greater than 5.55 Amps at the motor windings.

Instantaneous current trip occurs if there is a spike of 26 Amps instantly at the motor windings.

This may signify problems with the drive motor, thermal protector or motor controller. Overloading the unit may cause this problem.

Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display

leave it unplugged for 40 minutes to reset the ECU.

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LF Error code: LF stands for long fill and occurs when the water level does not change for a period of time after the valves are turned on.

All washers are designed to operate with a water supply pressure of 20-100 PSI. When the pressure drops below 20 PSI the washer can have the following problems:

* Slow Fill- low water pressure reduces the speed at which water flows into the machine.
o Verify the pressure at all other water sources in the house (i.e. sinks, showers, etc..). If you find other places where the pressure is low, the problem is not with the machine but with the water supply.
* Continuous Fill- The valve may not fully seat under 20 PSI which would allow for a constant flow even when the machine is not supposed to be filling.
o Contact the water company to verify the pressure being supplied to the house.
* dispenser- Needs a minimum amount of pressure to function. May dispense constantly, at the wrong time, or not at all.
o A plumber may need to be consulted if the pressure is found to be too low.

Things you can check :

* Are the Hot and Cold water faucets turned on
* Are the water hoses kinked
o Make sure all the hose are straight and able to flow water
* Are the screen inside the water valve plugged
o Inlet valve should be free of debris and rust.
o Turn off water and remove the inlet hoses from washer.
o Remove any accumulated film or particles.
o Assure rubber washers are in the end of each inlet hose.
o Reinstall hoses, turn on water and check for leaks.

Error codes can be caused by a Power Surge or other electrical anomaly,attempt to return the washer to operation by following the Hard Reset procedure below.

1. Unplug or turn the circuit breaker off for 30 seconds.
2. Reconnect the unit to the power source by turning the breaker back on or plugging the unit back into the wall outlet.
3. Press the Pause/Cancel/Stop button twice to clear the display.
4. Start a short cycle to check the operation of the machine by selecting a cycle and pressing and holding the start button until the machine starts

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