Top 10 Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

The problem with the new washing machines, is that they dump 20-22 gallons of water in 4-5 seconds. This amount is far more than the garden hose test will submit the drain to. Here are a number of solutions, I hope that one of these will help you.

#1 As mentioned above, you can restrict the flow of the drain pipe. I recommend a 3/4" x 6" brass nipple, or a 1/2" x 6" brass nipple, depending on your specific situation. The brass nipple will not corrode like a galvanized nipple.

#2 There is also a rubber cap that you attach to the drain pipe that fits around the drain hose tightly.

#3 Some situations might require that you have to raise your drain pipe. It is recommended that it be at least 36". This allows for gravity to assist the drain.

#4 Some situations will require that the drain pipe be increase in diameter. Older plumbing applications were installed using 1 1/2" piping. With the newer washing machine discharge volume, the 1 1/2" pipes will not support the discharge. Your drain line will need to be changed to 2". This option will be one of the more costly fixes, depending on the amount of line that needs to be changed.

#5 Some plumbing installations installed without a p-trap will need to be changed. The p-trap keeps sewer gas from coming back into the house. It also allows for a smooth transition into the drain line. Any restrictions in the drain line (i.e. ells, tees,) will cause the soap in the gray water to foam up which will cause the drain line to slowly back up.

I hope these solutinons help.

I am getting an F35 code on the washer has anyone had this problem

If your washing machine is still under the manufacturers warranty I don't believe Sears should be charging you anything for the call. But, if you wish to steer clear of that mess and repair the washer yourself, I can give you some advice. The problem is your door latch assembly. The "Fdl" displayed is a failed door latch error code. If it is occurring intermittently right now, you are simply going to buy some time before it eventually goes bad. When it does, the washer will not run. The part number is 1094190 and costs about $50. Just to be sure, post back with comments as to your model number (located along the door frame opening) and I will research to ensure the part number is correct. The latch assemblies have not changed over recent years and are interchangeable between model numbers. If you still wish to repair yourself, I can also give you step-by-step instructions. It is not a difficult repair, but it is a little tedious. Let me know. I hope this helps you.

its the error code for a long drain time most likely you need to check the filter in your pump for obstructions First if you have a wet vac pull the drain hose out of the drain spout and use the vac to pull the water out of the washer through the drain hose.If not you will need a pair of radiator hose clamps from the auto parts store. Pull the screws from the lower panel at the front of the washer and remove it.in side you will see a rubber hose coming down from the tub to the drain pump. Put the radiator hose clamp there if you didn't have a shop vac.On the front of the pump is a round part with a handle turn that and remove the pump filter .Clean any foreign objects out of the pump and look inside the pump to make sure no impeller blades are broken if any are you will have to replace the pump. put the filter back in and tighten it. If you had to use the hose clamp remove it now.reassemble and don't forget to give the tech his four boxes if this fixes it

The "Fdl" error code indicates a problem with the door latch assembly. The clicking sound you hear is the door latch attempting to latch. If it fails to latch, the wash cycle will not start and the error code and audible beep will occur. There should be a tech sheet inside the washer. It's usually located behind the bottom panel under the door, or along the inside of the casing on either the left or right hand side. The tech sheet will have a list of error codes, procedures on how to perform diagnostics, and troubleshooting hints. It's strongly recommended that you leave the tech sheet inside the washer, so you don't lose it.

Repairclinic.com carries the door latch for about $50 and is listed as item number 1094190.

Searspartsdirect carries it for slightly less for about $43 and lists it under the "Door and Latch Parts" as item number 7 (part #8181700).

If you go to my profile and click on "Tips and Tricks" I have a posting there on how to change the door latch on a front loader. It's a very simple repair that any Do-It-Yourselfer can accomplish.

If you can't find the instructions you need, or need further assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Based upon your description, the drain pump has either failed or the pump filter has become clogged.
To check the pump, remove the bottom access panel. There you will find access to the pump clean-out.(Large,white screw cap) BE READY TO CATCH LOTS OF WATER. CAREFULLY AND S_L_O_W_L_Y unscrew the pump clean-out, catching and discarding the water. When the water flow finally stops, completely remove the clean-out filter. Inspect the clean-out filter, the drain hose from the tub as well as inside the pump impeller for any additional debris.

If you need further assistance, let me know
Regards,
reg501

I don't just got done checking and sure enough it was filled with socks, rocks, and small debris. I don't know yet if it fixed it but will know in a few hours. In any case, these items could not have been good. First, try to make sure all water is out. Run on spin cycle for 10 minutes, be prepared for about 4 to 6 cups of water coming out.

the fix: You should always unplug for safety!
There are three screws at the very bottom of washer. You will need and extension and a star tip. They are on good and tight so I used a cordless drill and extension. I'm sorry I can't tell you which star tip I used. I bought a little security kit from harbor freight that has all these tips and one worked. Their is a white canister that has one hose in and another hose out. Just unscrew slowley and clean if dirty. You might be as surprised as I was if you find any junk.

Good Luck

Had this problem on our Kenmore machine.

This is what done.

1. Unplug the washer

2. Take of the toe panel in the front by removing the three screws.

3. Get a bunch of towels (I mean a bunch!!!)

4. The pump is in the center, and it has a plastic grip handle that one can unscrew to remove the filter. As you unscrew it, LOTS of water will come out. Be ready with the towels. A cookie sheet helps to collect the water too.

5. Clean the filter assembly.

6. If one wishes to check the inlet of the pump, remove the back panel, about 12 screws. (Note, the following works for replace the pump as well)

7. Remove the large bellow from the bottom of the tub that goets to inlet of the pump by removing the clamp

9. Lift up on the plastic cover that covers the wires that power the pump. There may be a small plastic catch that is lifted up as to allow the connector to become free.

8. Remove the Torx screw that holds that is the center just under the filter screen.

9. Pull the pump forward.

10. Unclamp the pump outlet hose.

11. Remove pump

12. Unclamp the large bellow on the pumps inlet and inspect for debris.

13. Clean pump and fitler w/o getting water on the pump.

14. Install in reverse order. Remember, it is much easire to put the inlet bellow and outlet hose on the pump before you put into the washer

I have a Bachelor's in Economics...but this is such an easy fix even I can do it! The error code F35 is commonly associated with the Sud error, which comes on within a minute of running any cycle. It means the Analog Pressure Sensor (small plastic electronic circuit) has gone bad. It costs about $99 to order from Sears although they are on backlog, or you can get it cheaper somewhere else. It could also mean the Air Pressure Tube from the Sensor has a hole or isn't connected.
Once you get the new Sensor, remove the 3 screws holding the top panel inplace - they are on the backside on the very top. Remove the top and look at the far back upper right corner (looking from the front). There is a small crimson & black piece attached to the metal side wall with 5 blue wires & 1 black wire (pressure tube) attached to it. Make sure there are no leaks or disconnects...if not, then replace with new sensor - takes a little playing with to remove the old one & the wires. Replace lid and works like new! Saved $75 for the Technician call out and more $$ for labor.

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