20 Most Recent Kenmore HE3T Washer - Page 8 Questions & Answers

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question(*(*&^

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn't cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.


Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.


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It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Check the Vibration damper rods to be sure that...
1. They are there and mount is solid.
2. If they are broken in 1/2.
3. The plastic knuckle mounts are not missing/broken.
4. There is oil in the shock absorber/spring section of the rods.

Also - there are suspension springs on the bottom of the tub that could be broken and/or missing.

Replace/repair as necessary.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question$$$$

DOOR SWITCH ERROR

If the door has not been opened for 3 consecutive cycles or the door switch is open while the door is locked for more than 5 seconds.

Possible Causes/Procedure

-Door not opened during 3 consecutive cycles.

1. Open and close the door.
2. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any cycle.

-Door switch open while door is locked.

1. Push the door and check if it is completely closed.
2. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any cycle.

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FH error indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water. Since you can see it filling, the error indicates low flow. A flow meter
in the unit detects if 10.5 gallons fills the tub within 8 minutes; yours must not be. This will turn off the inlet valves and the error code will be displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. This occurs when there is no air gap for the drain line at the standpipe. The standpipe is the drain pipe at the wall where the washer drain line is placed. With no air gap, a vacuum is created, and water will begin to drain from the wash tub prematurely. To prevent this from occurring, follow this advice:

•The standpipe should be 2 inches in diameter to allow a sufficient air gap between the top of the standpipe and the drain hose.
•The standpipe should be a minimum of 34" from the floor, and should not exceed 72 inches in height.
•DO NOT seal the top of the standpipe. Many consumers seal the standpipe in the belief that this will prevent overflows, or get rid of drain odors. This often creates more problems than solutions.
•DO NOT place the drain hose too far down into the pipe. Water stays in the drain trap area of the standpipe. If the end of the drain hose rests in this area, no air gap is created, and this can also cause siphoning. 4 to 6 inches is sufficient.
•The drain hose length must not exceed 10 feet in length. Excessive drain hose length can cause drain problems and back wash.
- Verify Drain Pump operation. Unplug the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. Open the pump access and remove, once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.


- Verify Flow meter operation and that the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly. Remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required in determining if the components are good or bad.


"F/H" indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water.

If you have NO water coming into the wash tub after 30 seconds the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary.
- Make sure water taps are on.
- Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.

If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, and after 8 minutes, 10.5 gallons of water has been detected by the flowmeter, but there has not been a detected a Pressure Switch trip, the inlet valves are turned off and the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
- Verify Drain Pump operation.
- Verify Flowmeter operation.
- Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.

To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. If not, click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet

To access the Flowmeter and Pressure Switch - remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached.

There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:

- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.

In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.


NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.

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Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Error F06 in your whirlpool duet indicates that the control is unable to properly detect the motor speed and so the washer shuts down. This usually occurs during high speed spin and the door will be unlocked after 3 minutes. To resolve this issue you’ll have to check the wire harness connections between the Driver motor and the Motor control unit (MCU). If that is fine then check the connection between the MCU & central control unit (CCU), replace the part that has gone bad. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

“F21” is a Long Drain error. If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a “SUDS” error may also be displayed. This may be an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:


1.First, attempt to unplug the washer for at LEAST 30 minutes to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches with the unit. If the error code returns, proceed to step 2.
2.Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
3.Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
4.Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.
To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump.

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Drive Motor Tachometer Error

The control is unable to properly detect motor speed and the machine will shut down. If a failure occurs during high-speed spin the door will be unlocked after 3 minutes.

Potential Causes:

* Check wire harness connections between the Drive Motor/Tachometer and the Motor Control Unit (MCU), and between the MCU and the Central Control Unit (CCU)
* Check the Drive Motor
* Check the MCU
* Check the Wire Harness
begin troubleshooting right at the motor. Why start there? Because the motor is one of the prime suspects and it's easy to check. Remove the back panel and unwind the belt from the drum pulley. Now turn the motor pulley (sans belt) by hand. If it doesn't turn smoothly and easily, you have a bad motor.

If the motor pulley turns smoothly and easily by hand, next step is to run the motor with the belt still removed from the motor pulley. If the motor seems to run fine that way, put the belt back on and run it again. If the motor won't run under load (with the belt on), then that's another sign that the motor is bad.

Suppose the motor turns easily and freely by hand but won't run either with or without the belt. This is a more subtle condition because we're probably dealing with a bad MCU or flakey wire harness somewhere between the motor and MCU, or between the MCU and the CCU.

One trick that often works at this point is to remove and reinsert all wire connections at the board and motor. This tends to clean the small amount of corrosion that will build up on the connections. After you do this put the machine into a service cycle (see the instructions in the tech sheet found inside the unit or you can ). Part of the service cycle is running the motor at certain set speeds which checks the tach.


If you've removed/reinserted the wire harnesses and still no joy, then usually the problem is the MCU.


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“F21” (AKA SD) is a Long (SLOW) Drain error (LD). If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a “SUDS” error may also be displayed. This may be an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:


1.First, attempt to unplug the washer for at LEAST 30 minutes to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches with the unit. If the error code returns, proceed to step 2.
2.Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
3.Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
4.Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.
To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump.

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1. I had the exact same problem. Just fixed it. If there are no error codes (F xx, showing on the display) then it's probaly the door closed sensor. At least that's what mine was with same problem. Most likely, it's simply the connector to the sensor that's shaken loose. The unit thinks the door is not closed and will not do anything including trying to lock the door (the latching you hear when first starting a load). slide the washer out so you can get to the rear. Might have to disconnect all the hoses and power, which for me was the hardest thing of all since it's in a cabinet. Anyway, remove the back metal panel by removing about 12 Torx screws and the four plastic slide latches. then remove the top (just three more torx screw on the back that hold the top in place. looking from the inside of the unit down by where the door normally latches there are several electrical connectors (don't forget to unplug the power). one or more of these is probably loose. Mine was the top one. That's it. Note also, there's a pamplet inside with lot's of troubleshooting information. It's taped to the right side panel inside. I'd take it out so you can refer to it later, if needed. why they don't put it in with the owner's manual, i have no idea. It's written for the consumer, though it does have a simple schematic that might be helpful.

replace the ECU main board.


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“F02” is a Long Drain error. If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a “SUDS” error may also be generated as a secondary error. This is an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:

1. Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
2. Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
3. Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.

To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions.


http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump



The "SUDS" error can be caused by too much detergent, improper detergent, drain pump/drain line problem, or pressure switch malfunction.

1. If you are not using HE detergent, you need to be. These washers are designed to use HE detergent which is formulated for wash tubs that use 5 to 7 gallons of water. If you use regular detergent, you are, in affect, placing a higher concentration of detergent in the washer that is normally formulated for wash tubs that have a 35 gallon capacity. The manufacturer should have a disclaimer in the owner's manual explaining this. In most cases this will also void your warranty. NOTE: Prolonged use of the wrong detergent can damage the drain pump components and or wash tub seals.

If you are using the correct detergent, double check the label to make sure it is not double (2X) or triple (3X) concentrated. You could still be placing too much soap in your wash.

To get rid of excessive detergent, place the washer on a RINSE & SPIN cycle, then run it through a normal wash cycle with NO detergent added. You may have to repeat these steps depending on the amount of detergent used.

2. If you do not have a detergent issue, double check the drain pump and drain lines to ensure they are not obstructed in any way. Click on the following link for step-by-step instructions:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

Obstructions in the drain pump and/or drain lines can attribute to air getting trapped in the drain pump and cause the error code. Double check all electrical connections to the drain pump and Central Control Unit (CCU). You will need to remove the top panel of the washer to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top panel in place. With the screws removed, slide the panel back, then off. The CCU is located directly behind the wash tub in the center of the washer. The Drain Pump connector will be the 6th connector (facing from the front L to R) in the center of the CCU.

3. Check the Pressure Switch to ensure it is good. The Pressure Switch is located to the right of the CCU as you are looking from the front. It is a small cylindrical shaped device with a connector plug and an air hose attached. The switch can be checked at several water levels by removing the plug and taking resistance readings at the connector pins. Readings are as follows:

(Pins are numbered R to L facing the from the REAR)

Pins 1 to 2 (SUDS Detect) – 0 ohms
Pins 3 to 4 (Overflow) – 0 ohms
Pins 4 to 5 (L1) – 0 ohms
Pins 4 to 6 (Empty) – 0 ohms

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“F02” is a Long Drain error. If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a “SUDS” error may also be generated as a secondary error. This is an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:

1. Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
2. Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
3. Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.

To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions.


http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question!!!!

There is likely a short on the ECU and it must be replaced. Further testing should be conducted by a professional in this case.

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