20 Most Recent Kenmore HE3T Washer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

do you mean f/h ,no water to unit ,,,check to make sure hot and cold taps are on both...check for kinked fill hoses ,,if theres water in unit already check,pump..it will not fill with water in unit,,make sure theres no leaks from hose anywhere,,,good luck, repost if moe help is needed

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

(If these actions have not cured the problem, it could be the control board OR the main motor. Motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin.)

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi

The error code F35 is commonly associated with the Sud error, which comes on within a minute of running any cycle. It means the Analog Pressure Sensor (small plastic electronic circuit) has gone bad. It could also mean the Air Pressure Tube from the Sensor has a hole or isn't connected. Once you get the new Sensor, remove the 3 screws holding the top panel inplace - they are on the backside on the very top. Remove the top and look at the far back upper right corner (looking from the front). There is a small crimson & black piece attached to the metal side wall with 5 blue wires& 1 black wire (pressure tube) attached to it. Make sure there are no leaks or disconnects...if not, then replace with new sensor.

Please get back to us if you have further query or else please accept the solution.

Thanks for contacting fixya.com

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Manual
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) washer manual' and you should be presented with a number of sources from which you can either download for free or have to pay a nominal amount.
You could also try the manufacturer's web site direct ;-0)

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C.

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

F02 is a drain error in your Kenmore washer, if the unit is unable to drain then after 4 minutes it will display suds and then F02. The first thing that should be done is cleaning the drain hose and the drain pump filter, you can take out three torx screws from the bottom front panel and then clean the area completely, lift up the cap to clean the filter. If the error returns then check the drain pump if it is not working then replacing the pump is recommended repair. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
(If these actions have not cured the problem, it could be the control board OR the main motor. Motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin.)

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

This error code F20 tells that no water entering the machine is detected during the fill step of the wash cycle. It can be due to siphoning, pressure switch not tripping or stuck in the empty position, or the water flow meter is not reading the correct water flow. Make sure that no water is draining out of the drain hose due to siphoning as water fills in and position the end of the hose to prevent such condition.

The pressure switch is stuck and not tripping if after 8 minutes the water flow meter has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it but the control has not detected the pressure switch trips. The water valves are then turned off and the error code is flashed. The error code is also flashed if after 30 seconds the water valves are turned on and no water is detected entering the machine due to sticking flow meter pinwheel or the flow meter is not positioned properly.

The flow meter is position sensitive. The pinwheel must be installed vertically. Any canter to it may cause the wheel to stick. Many times the F20 error code pops up only when HOT water passes through the flow meter. The hot water may be softening the hoses on either side of the meter, causing the flow meter to canter.



Stuck or cantered pinwheel affects the flow meter's ability to read water flow accurately. Disconnect the hoses from the flow meter then blow air into the inlet to free a possible stuck pinwheel. Replace the flow meter if the pinwheel is stuck and cannot be freed.

Check the pressure hose for possible kinks or air leaks if the flow meter pinwheel is positioned vertically and turning freely. Kinks and air leaks in the pressure hose prevents pressure built up in the pressure switch dome and the pressure switch cannot trip. Check the pressure hose including its connections to the pressure switch and the bottom of the tub. Blow air into the pressure hose to clear possible clogs or kinks and check it for air leaks. Also blow air into the pressure switch dome to free a possible pressure switch contacts welded or stuck in the empty position. You should hear the pressure switch clicks if it is tripping. Replace the pressure switch if not tripping and the pressure hose has no kinks or air leaks.



You don't have to accept or reject this post in order to add comment or information. But accepting the solution should you find it helpful and/or informative will not stop you from posting comments or additional information. You can still communicate with the expert should you need further advice regarding the issue stated herein.

Check the filter at the front of the machine.

There should be a small cover at front of machine at base.

Open this cover and inside you will see a circular cap.

This needs to be unscrewed anti clock wise, it can be stiff if not used before.

remember you will have to catch the water that comes out and pull out any debris inside.

It is possibly blocked or has debris inside.

Remember you will have to catch the water be prepared.

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thanks

This is obviously a door lock/switch assembly failure. The fault code FdL flashes if the door locking routine fails, after six attempts, to lock the door. You should hear the door lock clicks six times before the fault code flashes. Replacing the door lock/switch assembly is the only viable solution and it's a do-it-yourself repair. You only need a pair of needle-nose pliers to stretch the door gasket retaining hoop and a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the screws securing the door lock/switch assembly to the front panel. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions on how to replace the door lock/switch assembly.

Replacing the Door Lock/Switch Assembly on Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite Front Load Washers

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

F35 error means that there is some sort of issue with the steamer electronic board and analog pressure sensor has gone bad. To solve this problem you have to take the bottom front panel apart and then clean the drain filter pump assembly completely, make sure the washer is unplugged before working on it. Check that the hose is firmly attached with the washer and is not blocked. You can also check the water level pressure switch operation. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

The "F21" on your model of washer indicates the machine has detected a fault or obstruction in the drain process.

Chances are the pump itself is being obstructed by debris or some other foreign object as opposed to being faulty, although a faulty pump can`t be ruled out...yet.

Here`s how to check it and clean it...there is also a bellows at the bottom I`ll show you how to check & clean once you proceed through these steps.

**Turn off the breaker at the service panel or unplug the washer from the wall socket...safety first**

1) locate the screws in front at the very bottom of the panel below the door and pull the panel down and forward until it is off. They will be either 1/4" hex head or #20 torx head screws.

2) You will immediately see the drain pump in front of you with a large removable filter. ( **see image below...this is were a wet-dry shop vac and towels come in handy, also the use of the removed panel as a catch pan is beneficial...but you may still get wet )
3) Turn it counter-clockwise should allow you to remove it and inspect it and clean it out. Make a good thorough inspection inside the pump as well not just the removable filter.

4) Re-insert the filter and before placing the panel back run a test rinse/drain cycle to inspect for leaks and to verify the unit drains and spins now.

( If the problem still exist`s the "F21" will re-appear. If so you`ll need to check the hose/rubber bellows from pump to tub...back-flow ball...for other obstructions ).

5) If all appears OK after your efforts, well your efforts paid off...pat yourself on the back. You just saved yourself potentially a couple hundred bucks !

Now You should be good to go. Re-attach the lower panel and you`re back in business.

**NOTE: if this still fails to remedy the F21 or if it returns immediately during the next drain you may require a pump unfortunately...part # 280187 available at "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclinic.com" etc.

**This however can also be caused by the back-flow ball inside the bellows which connects the tub to the pump. There is a large clamp which secures it to the tub, but if you remove it to clean out all the dirt built up inside, make sure you get it good and secure when putting it back.**

Let me know how it goes and if you require further assistance.

Thanks for choosing FixYa. Please take a moment to rate the solution provided for you here today.

Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

"FdU" is a Door Latch Unlock error code. This is usually an indication of a failed door latch, a Central Control Unit (CCU) problem, or the interconnecting wiring between the two. The first step in troublehsooting any error code on these model washers is to press PAUSE/CANCEL to clear. If the error remains, UNPLUG the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit. In many cases, resetting the CCU will correct many momentary glitches in the program operation. If the error returns following a CCU reset, then you have a legitimate problem. The following link explains the door latch error and what you can do to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4490349-fdl_error_code

I know the link is for the "Fdl" error, but the symptoms, troubleshooting and remedies are identical. I have included web links for part resources (if required).


NOTE: EACH ONE OF THESE APPLIANCES COME WITH A TECHNICAL DATA SHEET INSIDE. THIS IS THE SAME SHEET AN APPLIANCE REPAIRMAN WILL REFERENCE ON A SERVICE CALL. REFER TO THE TECH SHEET FOR MORE DETAILED TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION.

The tech sheet contains troubleshooting data, wiring diagrams, diagnostics procedures, component illustrations and all error code definitions.


To access, you will need to remove the lower toe panel directly below the door. The access screws are located under the bottom front edge of the panel. You may have to prop the two front feet of the washer up for better access to the screws (a 2x4 works well for this). With the screws removed, the panel should drop down, and come off. If the tech sheet isn't directly behind the toe panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls.


It is recommended that the tech sheet be placed back inside the appliance when repairs are completed in order avoid losing and to keep this pertinent info for future use.

If you have any questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope this helps you.

First remove the service panel and check if junk is in the filter.


This thing works on air pressure rising in the tub from a small tube connected to it.
If that tube has a hole in it or has fallen off the component or has junk in it then the part won't relay the pressure readings to the main control and wreck that freight train. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
'dl +F' stands for Door Lock Fault. There is likely to be a problem with either the door solenoid/lock or the 'door closed' sensor. Both require a service engineer's attention I suggest ;-0(

If this has assisted and/or clarified the situation for you please consider a 4 thumbs up on our rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi

1. Check door switch/lock unit.2. Check the wire harness connections of the door switch/lock unit to the Central Control Unit (CCU). The wires should be secured well.You could have a problem with the door lock/switch assembly or you could also have a failed start button on the user interface. Try opening and closing the door. The door must be opened and closed between consecutive cycles. I provided the details of the diagnostic test mode for this model in the image below. You can try to put the machine in the diagnostic test. If the machine won't enter this test, it may detect that the door is still open. During the test, it may detect the cause of your starting problem. If the machine enters the diagnostic test and locks the door properly, then you likely have a failed start button on the user interface.

If the door lock assembly is bad and needs to be replaced.

Check the parts from this link:-

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Also check this link:-

http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Troubleshooting?red=Washing-Machine-Repair-Help#itdoesntworkatall

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

F/05 Water Temperature Sensor Error
If during the water heating step in wash cycle, the water temperature sensor (NTC) value is out of range, or the heating element circuit has failed, the "F/05" error code will be displayed.
Check the Water Temperature Sensor, Heating Element and Element Relay Check connections to the Sensor, Heating Element and Relay

The drum may have become damaged if it was moved without securing the drum.
Your washer probably came with drum "bolts" to hold it securely while moving it.

http://www.ehow.com/how_6731367_transport-front-load-washer.html

"F11" is defined as a Serial Communications error. This is an indication of a communications problem between the Central Control Unit (CCU), Motor Control Unit (MCU), or the interconnecting wiring between the two. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608695-f11_error_code


To rule out the possibility of an erroneous program error, UNPLUG the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes to reset the CCU. Plug the washer back in and attempt to run a program (DRAIN and SPIN is recommended since the washer has already run through a wash cycle). The washer should allow the tub to fill and run through a drain sequence, before finally doing a final spin. If the error code reappears, you know you have a legitimate problem and will need to troubleshoot.

Remove the top panel of the washer and check all the connections at the CCU, first. Remove the connectors that run between the CCU and MCU and reseat them, one at a time (refer to the tech sheet that comes with the appliance). Sometimes reseating the connector plugs can correct certain problems.

FYI: If you do determine that the CCU is the cause of the problem, some sites may carry a refurbished version that costs less than a new one.

For a full explanation of all the error codes, each one of these washers comes with a technical data sheet inside.

To access, you will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door. The access screws are located under the bottom front edge of the panel. You may have to prop the two front feet of the washer up for better access ( a 2x4 works well for this). With the screws removed, the panel should drop down, then come off. If the tech sheet isn't directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls.

The tech sheet lists all error code definitions, troubleshooting data, diagnostics procedures and wiring diagrams. I mention the tech sheet because you may need it to accurately troubleshoot this error code.


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com


Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. The first three sites on the list include helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying any parts you may need. If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know.

Read through the information provided and if you have questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.