20 Most Recent Polaroid TLX-01911C LCD TV Questions & Answers

If you can get the model of the remote, or just find the manual of one online that looks just like it, it should have a codes list, and maybe one or two codes for Polaroid TVs.

Fault to the main power supply regulator section. Either it will be a separate board, or the part of main board. Check and replace damaged component/s at its main power regulator [SMPS] section circuit. Contact any service technician. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ It will be best to replace the power supply regulator board as card basis rather than making "Surgery" to it; which usually will make loss for both money and time. Even though you can make it right, it will cost around an amount equal to the cost of a new board; including the cost of (spare parts + service charge) More to say, most of the spare parts to it will be difficult to get from open electronic spare part market. This is true to most of the flat panel TV power supply boards; irrespective of its brand and screen size.

I would first check the power supply. Check the main fuse, if is blown and there was no power surge from an external source, the supply board has some serious problem. If the fuse is fine measure the output voltage of the power supply board. Check for any swollen electrolytic capacitors, they are the number one cause of every LCD failure I have come across. I just fixed a Polaroid FLM1514 which has a 2956C Ver 2.0 power board driven by a Fairchild CM0765. Turns out the VCC capacitor was bad and not even swollen, sowpped it for a 47uF 50V and presto.

if the other inputs are fine..the best and practical solution is used the other sources/input or try to replace your rca jack

Hi breezeloe,
Power on the unit in the dark room then shine with the flashlight directly in the screen, you will barely see the images. This is because your backlight is not functioning. The following reason is the caused.
1. Power supply - missing B+(supply voltage) coming from this board feeding the inverter board. This is caused by faulty transistor, dried/leaky electrolytic capacitor, open fusible resistor.
2. Inverter board - even the B+ is good from the power supply, if the fuse, driver transistor, driver transformer is faulty no output to the backlight resulting to black picture.
3. Busted backlight - even inverter board is good but if this is busted resulting to black picture also.
Diagnosing the fault is technical and if you don't have necessary tools and test instrument and can't fix it yourself, I would advice you to look for an experienced technician to isolate the problem.
Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.

Download its service manual by internet. It have all details.

You either lost HDMI on the TV or the Laptop. The way to tell is hook up the laptop to another set aand see if it works. If it does than the problem is in the Main PCB of your TV.

replacement remote -polaroid- 845-042-GF1XAPH -remote control -retail $39.95I KNOW THERE IS A CHEAPER ONE OUT THERE!!! as for a universal solution? I`m still waiting for my own answer to that one!!!

Get rid of it

Good day!!!!


That is the common problem when the power failure occurred or have electrical fluctuation because during power failure once the electricity is come back specially split seconds only the current flows is too high than normal...

If high current goes to your TV..the power supply and main board got on trouble because if the current flows on the power supply (input) is high also the output voltage is high...if the output is high specially 5vdc for the logic supply of main board (for the I.C)..if the I.C supply receive more than 5vdc the I.C is dead..

This are the steps on how to determine the problem if you have multimeter:

1. open the back cover.
2. check the output voltage..it should have 5vdc for the main board,12vdc or sometime 16vdc for the audio and 24vdc for the back-light inverter..
3. if you encountered voltage drop on that 3 voltages you have a problem to the power supply board..
4. if the 3 voltages are normal..the problem could be on the main board but unfortunately the main board is not for D.I.Y repair because the parts is surface mount and very sensitive..The only remedy for that is to replaced new main board..

Please try to do this procedure to determine the problem and let me know what could be the results to proceed the next troubleshooting..

Just add a comment for your response!!!


Thanks for using fixya..

Have a nice day..

1. 
   

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Are there any solid or flashing lights on the front of the set?
What color?
If flashing - is there a set pattern or number of blinks between pauses?

Do you hear any noises while it attempts to power on?

Does the picture appear for any length of time, or never?

Do you have sound?

In a dark room - does the TV "glow" black when powered on - or does it seem dead?

Does the problem happen on ALL input sources?
Can you successfully watch a DVD or play a video game using another input selection?

Are you able to bring up the On-Board settings menu?
Does the problem happen over the settings menu as well - or does it appear the problem is BEHIND the menu?

Finally - do you have experience repairing TVs and testing live circuits, or are you looking for a diagnostic and repair estimate?

Thanks!!



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There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the TV will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
I get mine at www.digikey.com online for less than a buck a piece plus shipping, and they usually arrive next business day.

does it have HDMI INPUT/OUTPUT? OR Audio video input/output? First you must have a cable for either of those two. HDMI (from the lcd tv) to HDMI (vcr/dvd combo).
audio/video input (from the lcd) to audio/video output (from the vcr).
hope this helps.

Tries websites like Amazon.com,Ebay.com to buy a new or a used tv base stand.

Try to go in settings and be sure that "video settings" are setted on antenna (or cable if you use a cable tv)

Yes.This problems ur tv is having because of those 1 or 2 long boards that call the LCD inverter boards are dead,that why picture only show up a few sec. than dies and have sound left only.These 1 or 2 long LCD inverter boards only job are to help the LCD screen panel to have a backlight to produced a picture.Tries websites like Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com to buy those 1or 2 long LCD inverter boards for the replacement.