Kenmore 63942 Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check the wireling harness / clip. also that the two thermo switches are working. after that it could be the actual main switch on the top of the machine.

The heating circuit is composed not only by the heating element and the timer but also with a high-limit thermostat, a thermal cut-off, and a cycling thermostat. The high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off are both mounted on the heater housing to monitor and regulate the heater temperature while the cycling thermostat is mounted on the blower housing to monitor and regulate the temperature of the exhaust air.

All of these components are wired in series and a failure in any of them results in the dryer not heating. The proper troubleshooting is by checking the continuity of each of these components with a volt-ohmmeter and replacing the ones found without continuity (open).

A continuity check can also be done by bypassing each of the three components, never the heating element, and then starting the dryer. The dryer should heat, otherwise the problem is somewhere in the timer, the heating element, or the centrifugal switch within the motor. When the dryer heats up, unplug it then un-bypass one of the bypassed components and start the dryer. If the dryer stops heating then you have found the failed component; replace it. If the dryer does not stop heating, do the same to the remaining components until you find the failed one. Just make sure the dryer is unplugged before touching the components.

Replace both the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off if any of them has failed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer if you need further or more specific advice.

Heating element can be found at amazon, click here and take a look: Amazon com kenmore dryer heating element. I hope this was helpful. Cheers

It does sound like a thermostat. The difference in the 2 would normally be that one is self resetting, and the other is non resetable. I would suggest replacing them as a pair, as every time a overheat stat operates, the operational temperature changes within it. Also, be prepared for the element to go down shortly, as overheating puts stress on the fins

Sounds like safety temp switch is opening then resetting when cooled down.
Clean out vent hose all the way outside. If you have a wet vac put the vac hose on the blower side and blow out hose if it is real long or replace hose

If it has even heat board, that is most likely the problem or the heat relay.

How old is the dryer>

In most cases it's not a bad heating element there are a few checks you need to make before buying a new heating element, you can follow this guide to make the repairs: Electric Dryer Runs But Dont Heat

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK: Thermal Fuse If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement. Igniter and Gas Valve Coils TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ? Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant. Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit. Air Flow and Heat The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all. Warning There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ut push start button for continuity with a meter when pushed in the on position, it may have gone bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTRP6kHqAFs

bad thermostats or moister sensor , short in heating system?

Normally when a dryer starts to exhibit longer dry times, then suddenly stop working, it is an indication that the Thermal Cut-Out has blown. The TCO acts as a fuse for the heating element circuits. When an overheat condition occurs, normally the hi-limit thermostat will open to shut off the heating element. This is how the dryer regualtes its heat. However, if the hi-limit thermostat malfunctions, the TCO will blow, It is not resettable, and has to be replaced. This also means that the hi-limit thermostat could be suspect and it should also be replaced at the same time. Normally, when you go to replace one or the other they are sold as a set. This still does not rule out the possibility of a bad heating element, either.

However, you said the dryer additionally does not start. With a blown TCO or heating element the dryer will still run, but will not heat. I'll get back to this in a minute...

Now...if your dryer has been having problems drying, the first thing you need to check is the ventilation ducting to ensure that it is not kinked or clogged. Poor air flow is the number one cause of dryer failures. Not to mention it can cause fires due to lint backing up inside the dryer. This could be the "electrical" smell you've experienced. If trapped lint is ending up on the heating element it will smolder and burn. I recommend the ducting be cleaned thoroughly about once per season. That's 4 times per year. If you've never cleaned the ducting, or your dryer is pushed all the way up against the wall causing the ducting to become kinked, you will have air flow problems. One way in determing air flow is to remove the vent hose from the back of the dryer and start the unit (of course, you need a working dryer in order to do this). The air should be forceful and slowly warm up to about 140 degrees. If the air flow is weak, you may have a clog inside the air baffle of the dryer (this is where the lint screen slides into). If the air flow is good, reattach the dryer hose and check at the output of the dryer vent as it exits your home. If the air flow is weak or non-existent then you know you have a clog in the vent line somewhere. Periodic cleaning will go a long way towards preventing future clogs. Dryer vent rule of thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent line, the BETTER. Everywhere you have a bend or kink is an area where you will create potential collection points for lint.

Now, in determing which component is bad in your dryer. If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side.

The heating circuit is set up and troubleshot as follows:

Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, 7 ohms across the other.

*Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

*If the Thermal Fuse blows, this will shut down the entire dryer. This is your likely suspect.

Here's a few things that will cause a dryer not to start at all:

1. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
2. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
3. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
4. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
6. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.

I just threw in those other items to give you some other things to consider. Troubleshooting is always an exact science as symptoms don't always indicate what you think the problem could be. The reason I keyed in on the heating circuitry was the intial symptoms you started with. Longer dry times are usually associated with poor air flow which usually causes something to eventually blow. I hope you find this information helpful. Please post back with any comments that I may assist you further. I hope this isn't confusing to you. Please ask for clarification if it is.

Sounds like you have a motor problem draging and it can't get started I just replaced one same problem.

The following link will take you to a website where you can type in your information and it will give you a time frame of when your dryer may have been made. You will also need your serial number as well.

The new dryer products clog up the fine mesh screen lint trap. Take it out each time and wash it with hot water until you can see the water run through. I learned this the hard way and paid for a service call.

you will need a test meter set on ohms, duct tape and metal tape, nut drivers 1/4 in and a 5/16 in nut driver , you might need new duct pipe most of the time it air flow that got you in this , un plug dryer remove duct pipe remove back. watch this video he is good at making help videos check you tube for more help videos good luck

the schematics sheet is under the head unit of the dryer where the timer is. In some dryers, the ones with the bottom front tray, you can find it in an envelope along side the wall of the dryer. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/charles_c2f37a3461344482

have you leveled it? what's in it when it does this? I think it has self levelers on the front of it just lift it off the floor and set it down softly I hope this helps and don't over load it! good luck!