Top 20 Kenmore 63942 Dryer Questions & Answers

It does sound like a thermostat. The difference in the 2 would normally be that one is self resetting, and the other is non resetable. I would suggest replacing them as a pair, as every time a overheat stat operates, the operational temperature changes within it. Also, be prepared for the element to go down shortly, as overheating puts stress on the fins

Sounds like safety temp switch is opening then resetting when cooled down.
Clean out vent hose all the way outside. If you have a wet vac put the vac hose on the blower side and blow out hose if it is real long or replace hose

check the wireling harness / clip. also that the two thermo switches are working. after that it could be the actual main switch on the top of the machine.

If it has even heat board, that is most likely the problem or the heat relay.

How old is the dryer>

The following link will take you to a website where you can type in your information and it will give you a time frame of when your dryer may have been made. You will also need your serial number as well.

the schematics sheet is under the head unit of the dryer where the timer is. In some dryers, the ones with the bottom front tray, you can find it in an envelope along side the wall of the dryer. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/charles_c2f37a3461344482

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK: Thermal Fuse If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement. Igniter and Gas Valve Coils TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ? Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant. Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit. Air Flow and Heat The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all. Warning There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

you will need a test meter set on ohms, duct tape and metal tape, nut drivers 1/4 in and a 5/16 in nut driver , you might need new duct pipe most of the time it air flow that got you in this , un plug dryer remove duct pipe remove back. watch this video he is good at making help videos check you tube for more help videos good luck

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ut push start button for continuity with a meter when pushed in the on position, it may have gone bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTRP6kHqAFs

bad thermostats or moister sensor , short in heating system?

have you leveled it? what's in it when it does this? I think it has self levelers on the front of it just lift it off the floor and set it down softly I hope this helps and don't over load it! good luck!

Check the door switch. Check to make sure your are getting 220 volts from your outlet. Check terminal block for burned wires. Less common causes: bad timer, bad motor.

There is a relay which goes bad mounted in the control panel. Some times it is part of the start switch and some a separate unit next to it. Need model to prioperly advise.

did you get this dryer because the last one stopped working check the dryer vent it may need replaced un hock it from the vent pipe and try it then it sounds like it has a vent problem try it telling the machine to stop so it won't burn up the coils or sensor let us know if that was what was wrong thanks and good luck!

Hello, You may have to run a cycle or 'set' the dryer (dial=ready) as these wires are not continuously 'hot'. Although there are usually a white, black(or red) and ground wire. Black or red is 'hot" white is "neutral' . I hope this helps

last time I looked a Kenmore dryer does not use water but their washer do! follow the hoses on the back of washer there are two, try turning off one of the valve at a time and see witch is the one that's keeps running till you turn it off this is the one with the bad solenoid valve unplug the power cord from the wall and remove that valve, go to appliance part store take the "model number" with you its kind of hidden open the lid look at the back top lip of washer under the lid you need to all most put your head in the tub to see it, but that's where it is. the valve has two wires on the in side and there is one hoses on the in side and one on the back out side. tools you may need! Phillips head screwdriver flat head screwdriver 1/4" nutdrive 5/16 nutdriver voltmeter

the door switch is located inside the door on top left or top right of the dryer, if it is one of the newer 70 series dryer it will be on the inside bottom towards the middle Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/charles_c2f37a3461344482