20 Most Recent Kenmore 63942 Dryer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

There are limit switches that controlling the tempature of the element check for continuity

Thanks for all the input!  We reached a compromise in hiring an electrician who was willing to come out today and install the connection for half what everyone else quoted...on a Sunday!  The laundry piling up in the corner was very persuasive in convincing us that your advice (in the end, we'd need a professional no matter which way we went) was prudent.  Thanks. jersey p

check your power if one leg is down eg 110 to the motor drier will run but not heat if the heater is getting 110 but not the motor drier will do nothing check for a partial tripped breaker eg one side tripped but not fully just turn off and reset check outlet for 220 check power cord at terminal block for loose or burned cord unplug first lol if cord is burned just means it was loose when in stalled most of the time this promb is elec.

The four wire cable is a redundant ground, It is an added safety feature. You can do this if the code does not call for 4 wires.

I solved the problem. The problem was the heater relay. Once I troubleshot the system and realized the wiring was likely good, the only answer was the heater relay. Since the heater relay and motor relay are identical I swapped them to make sure and now the motor didn't work. Picked up a new relay for $30 and it was fixed...

Yes, but there are several thermal limiters, they should reset when the unit cools, so likely that is not what is happening.... Forcefully turn the breaker FULLY off, and then back on, and test again...

The thermal limiters are located along the air flow path, typically downstream of your burner, the purpose is to prevent overheating and fire. These limiters stop the HEATING element and not the drum motor...

it should be in a housing mounted just inside the back panel. unlatch the housing from its mounts and the element slides out from the bottom

By wire contains are you referring to the dryer cord where it connects to the dryer itself? If so, the white and green go together in the middle of the terminal block, and if you get a flash light and look up into the area just above the terminal block, you'll see a red and black wire, black to black, red to red. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

make sure the lint filter duct is clean,you can remove the back panel if the filter is on top and remove the duct to clean it or if the filter is up front pop off the bottom panel,remove the filter and remove the duct,also if the vent line is long remove it from the back of dryer and stick a leaf blower in it and blow it to the outside,make sure there isn't a cage or anything blocking the outside hood,if there is remove what's there,also if this is a gas dryer you could have bad gas coils located on top of the gas valve,when the coils start to fail they will let the gas in until they heat up and then after around 15 to 30 minutes no more heat until they cool down again,you can run the dryer next time you use it and after 15 or 20 minutes remove the bottom panel or if filter is on top thee should be a cover on front panel,look at the ignitor,if it glows but no flame you have bad gas coils,hope this helps and next time send the full model number off of the machine you're having problems with

It's probably the heating element overloading the thermal cut off.

if the dryer seems to be running fine check the vent line and the duct that the lint filter slides into,most likely if it takes to long to dry clothes lint is blocking the air movement somewhere,when was the last time you cleaned out the dryer and vent line,you should clean the dryer once a year so you don't have a fire and your clothes will dry on time,if the vent line is long remove it from the back of the dryer and blow it out with a leaf blower,remove the lint filter duct and clean it and vac out the cabinet where the motor is.

your full model number is 11076902691,pop off the bottom panel,start it to see if the ignitor is glowing,your going to need a meter to check the parts,if no ignitor and if you don't hear any clicks when it starts check the fuse,unplug it,remove the lint filter and then remove the duct the filter slides into,you'll see the thermal fuse up on top of the blower wheel housing,it's a 3390719,pull at least one of the wires off of the part you're going to check with your meter set on homs and touch the leeds to each side of the fuse,if it stays on 1 the part is bad,any other reading then you have continuity and the part is good,if the fuse is bad it popped because the dryer got to hot,usually the lint filter duct is blocked with lint or the vent line is blocked and the air can't blow outside,you have to clean out the duct and if the vent line is long blow it out with a leaf blower, first go outside and make sure theres no cage or chicken wire or anything blocking the hood,if it's clear blow it out.you should do this once a year so you don't have a fire and your clothes will dry ontime,if the fuse is good check the ignitor for continuity to see if that's the problem

can you open the door,look around the opening of the frame and send the full model number so i can help you.

You have an obstruction inside the dryer chute the fan is rubbing against it I have seen this before. Here is my Roper whirlpool inglis maytag dryer cleanup If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Unplug it and get the back off there:I wrote a page on repair for FixYa and included how it works and all HERE If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61