Kenmore 62872 Electric Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Most heat related problems associated with long dry times are contributed to clogged ventilation. A dryer needs proper air flow to dry efficiently. If the external ducting is clogged, this will cause the internal heating circuits to actually overheat to the point of failure. If your dryer is heating, but simply taking a long time to dry, I would recommend a thorough cleaning of all ducting.

An easy way to determine if you have restricted air flow somewhere is to simply remove the vent house from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load as you normally would. The air flow coming from the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees F on most dryers). If it is, I would begin an inspection of your ducting from the point where it enters the wall, to where it exits your home. Rule of thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent ducting, the BETTER. If you have ventilation that runs up the wall and into an attic, runs under a crawl space, or has excessive bends or kinks, all of this can contribute to creating chokes points where lint can accumulate and cause more resistance on the blower. In a nutshell: it reduces the dryer's efficiency.

If the air flow coming out of the dryer is weak, you need to inspect the internal ducting where the blower fan is. If the air flow is cold, you more than likely have a blown thermal cut-out (safety thermostat), or heating element. On your model dryer, the heating element and TCO are located behind the drum. If both components are good, you should be able to see the element glowing through the holes in the back of the drum and feel heat.

Read through the advice I've given and let me know what your symptoms are. Hopefully this is just a simple air flow problem. NOTE: DO NOT run the dryer for extended periods (meaning days or weeks) with the vent hose off. This will cause the humidity level in your home to increase, along with the temperature. Which can lead to mildew. I hope this information is helpful. Let me know if I can be of further assistance.

yes there is you'll have to get high temp lubricant or grease. Here is how to get to it. first check this site out to help you see and recognize the parts www.repairclinic.com/Appliance-Parts?s=t-41780042990-%3d%3d&z=100 Check out items 1851 and 774936. This is were you need to get to. First remove small access panel on rear after unplugging from power source of course. Reach in and undo belt. Then look at the very bottom of your front panel if you see two screws lay the dryer down on it's back and remove the screws. Lift the bottom a bit to see door switch wires undo them and remove front panel it will hook in at the top under the main top. Then unscrew the 3 screws inside the drum in the middle and pull drum out. note the 2 items I have given you item 1851 slides out of the cup(774936) apply high temp grease and replace item 1851 and put it back together. If you don't have the 2 screws at the very bottom of the front panel for removing then the other way to open it is by prying the main top up with a wide flat screw driver toward edges between main top and front panel then removing 2 screws on the inside of the front panel toward top then unhooking at bottom. To facilitate belt replacement I use small scotch tape pieces to tape the belt to the drum so that when you have it back together and you re-stand the dryer you can reach in from the rear access panel to re-attach belt to motor and tensioner. If this scares you too much you may call me and i would be glad to walk you through it. My name is James 417-926-0106. I hope these directions help and you have a successful fix. This type of problem is very simple. Do not forget to re-connect your door switch wires or it won't run at all. Good Luck

Hi laurie a pow...

Check and clean if necessary your vent hose.
If you vent hose "seems" to be clean then,try running the dryer with the vent hose off and see if the dryer is not running hot anymore.
Make sure your lint screen is in place and has no tears or holes in it and is still firmly attached to the frame.
If you are running too hot you are not moving enough air thru the system.
It could be that the fan blade is plugged up.
The problem could be a large lint ball build up in the center of the fan or a sock,thin pants,a pen,etc. that has gotten into the fan by falling down the hole where the lint screen is normally inserted.
You have to find the air restriction to solve the problem.
It also can be a loose or worn out blower wheel/fan.
Please take time to rate me.

Hi icooley150...

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the screws that hold the filter housing.
Then remove the top of the dryer.Sometimes you have to use a flat bladed screwdriver to insert under the lid and pry up to remove the lid from the retaining clips.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

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There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

if one of the coils on the heating element is touching metal this can happen,if the filter is on top the heater is in the back of dryer,you need to remove the vent line and remove the back panel and it's on the right hand side,if the filter is inside then the heater is behind the front panel.you need to remove the heater and inspect it to see if it's broke or where one of the coils are touching metal,if this isn't the problem you'll need a meter to check the thermostats,unplug the dryer before servicing it,but i would check the heater first,let me know what you find

Hi,
Yes, it will be hot... but check out this tip that will help you to keep your dryer running efficiently...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4312805-dryer_maintenance

heatman101

It sounds like the felt pieces which guide and help to support the drum are worn out. If you get the full model number you should be able to order them at www.appliancepartspros.com Good luck.

If you have power to the unit and all of the various safety's and element is checking out ok, then you need to check the timer. The large red wire going into the timer is the weakest point, it draws a tremendous amount of current from the heater element and is the most frequent failure point in the timer. Remove the large red wire on the terminal marked RH on the timer. Slowly turn the timer and check for continuity between the RH terminal and every terminal on the timer. If you cannot get a continuity reading at any point in any cycle, then the contact inside the timer is burned up. Timer replacement will be nessesary. Here is a burnt contact:
Click on pic to enlarge
Sometimes you can file that contact down and go some more. This one looks fileable. I have seen em burnt slap up nothing left to file down. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Clean vent first.
Might be gas valve coils too.
Dryer repair in orange county, ca

Sounds like you lost the lower roller/mount for the dryer drum.

SearsPartsDirect online should have a parts breakdown for you so can spot the part in question.

a dryer is not working at all that's not good! But it doesn't mean you need to go appliance shopping just yet. It may be something very simple like a broken door latch, a bad door switch or even a broken door switch actuator, in a kenmore dryer there is a tab thats sticks out of a hole in the wall that allows the dryer to run only if the door is shut, other models may have button that protrudes out of the dryer and when the door is shut, this allows the dryer to run. These switches go out from time to time, also if a dryer is full of lint build-up over time this will cause the dryer high limit or fuse to blow. The fuse is located near where the blower is in most cases. When the air in the dryer gets way too hot the fuse/hi-limit will blow and the house wont burn down.

where are fuses on kenmore dryer

The thermal fuse should be just inside the rear of the dryer and is usually attached to or is near the exhaust duct. It is about an inch long. It can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity indicates a blown fuse. Hope this helps and best wishes.

Most likely a bad thermo-fuse also called a high limit. Not hard to fix and cost little.
Please rate solution if helpful

The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All Kenmore dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

visit youtube.com and type "do it yourself" and dryer repair in the search window.. there are some awesome kenmore repair videos online there....they'll take you step by step... have a blast!

i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Have you checked the lint screen? pull the lint screen out and remove the lint then hold flat and pour water on it. Does the screen hold the water or does the water flow through? If it holds water, then you must actually clean the film that has coated the screening material. Use dish soap and scrub lightly then rinse clean. and check again.

if its a humming than a click,,wont start for a few mintues,,than the hum again ,,your motor is shot,,,replace,,onthejob