Top 10 Kenmore 79012 / 79014 / 79019 Gas Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

You unscrew the orifices in the range and screw in the new ones.  In the oven you adjust the hood around the bake orafice by screwing it down.

We had this same problem. We found that pushing the censor button/switch on the upper left rim of the oven's inside moved the lock and made it capable to unlock, or purchase a pizza pizzaz.

We have suffered the same problem for the past 3 yrs. We first had the door all fall apart and I screwed it back together thinking that someone missed tightening a screw. Then shortly after the 1 yr warranty was up it happened again. Sears would not help, first told me that there was a recall, then not. After 6 departments and 12 people later they sent me on to whirl pool the manufacturer who said "see sears".
Anyways since we are abandoned by Sears who we trusted (as parents did) we are on our own, here is how I solved it.
After several times of the screw popping out and chipping and stripping the treads in the handle; I too switched out the bottom handle with the top but now at 3yrs old both handles had the threads stripped and chipped and the oven door fell apart during Thanksgiving dinner with the mother law 2009.
The next step for me after another round with Sears with no results (except they said it was common problem) and a letters to Att. Gen. (keep the letters flowing as they are hearing) was to go to the hardware store. I was able to find (not at the main hardware stores, had to go to mom/pa old fashion hardware store) a packet of #10 Sheet metal screws (Stainless steel) 2 1/2" long and a flat washer. This worked. Cost $1.18. Note it does strip the factory threads, so if your present threads are not too bad you may not want do it. You need the washer because the 2 1/2" is slightly too long. 2 1/4" would be a better length but I could not find them.
I would think Sears would want to avoid the bad press by sending all of us $1.18 worth of hardware out. Sears offered to sell me new handles, but I was not about to give them any more of my $.
And I agree it is a very stupid design to have to small handle (where the most stress is) holding the door/glass together.
Note if glass breaks, do not mess around, buy the proper part to go back in.

If you pull out the drawer at the bottom of the stove, there is a brass fitting that needs to be tightened with a 1/2" wrench.

It appears your thermostat/probe has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.





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If unplugging it for a couple minutes and plugging back in does not rectify then it sounds like a bad spark module or a shorted wire inside. All 4 should spark at the same time when any burner is used. (Does trying to light a burner make the other 2 spark too?)
Eric

Hi,
Before you go working too hard to get you oven to go into the self clean mode....check out this tip...


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3969401-self_cleaning_oven_problem

heatman101

" Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!! "

The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. This video will walk you thru the correct procedure for testing an oven igniter. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

The F90 error code is a door lock code. There are a couple of steps that you can take to try and clear the code. Do the following:

1) Unplug the range and wait for one minute.

2) Plug the range back in and turn it on.

3) Hold the door in and start a self clean cycle.

4) Wait for 2 minutes and then cancel the self clean cycle.

5) Do not let the door go until the door lock light goes out.

If that procedure does not clear the error code then you may have to get a Kenmore repair tech to take a look at the unit. There are a number of electronic fixes mentioned in their repair manual, but you would have to have the proper tools and training to run through those procedures. If there is any warranty left on the unit you can of course have the repair paid for. If not, then any repair shop should be able to give you a rough estimate on the cost of repair.


Thank you for the opportunity to assist you in resolving your issue. Should you need further information or assistance please do not hesitate to let us know.

The "F11" fault code indicates a shorted button on the electronic oven control. This means the oven control board will likely need to be removed and replaced. You could disconnect power, wait 30 seconds and reapply power. If "F11" returns upon power-up, replace the electronic oven control board (EOC). but if i had your model number i could nail it right on the head with a fix...