20 Most Recent Kenmore 79012 / 79014 / 79019 Gas Kitchen Range - Page 9 Questions & Answers

The sparking module contacts are stuck on either from long time use or from humitity enter in it. So it can be dry out using a hair dryer and if you still have the problem then you need to replace it. We have here the parts diagram for you

turn the ocen on and then test the igniter to make sure it gets 110 volts if it does then replace the igniter

Hi,
You will need the installation instructions to complete this as it is important to make sure this is set correctly.
I would need a complete model number to attempt t locate this information for you, it mainly depends on who built the unit for Kenmore, as Kenmore builds nothing them self.
I would like to help you, please get back to me I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

The image below will show you how to adjust the burners. If this procedure does not make a difference, you will nee to replace the regulator on your unit.

Hi

This means a loose/broken wire on the oven temp sensor or the oven temp. sensor itself is bad and should be replaced. To solve this issue test the oven temp. sensor, it should read between 1080-1120 ohms, if the rating is more then that and the door appears to be closing fine then it is the control board that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel

On the top of pressure regulater is a removalable piece that fits one way for nautral gas and the other way for propane i am wondering it was installed upside down afer ya reassambled it, accidenttly setting it to propane which defeintly will cause that

That sounds to me like a weak bake igniter and its fairly easy to replace. The model number you provided is only a partial one look on either the door rim,behind the storage drawer,or inside the side panel with the storage drawer pulled out and find EXACT model# from the label,reply with it and i'll give you the part number for the igniter and instructions of how to replace it

Gene

Hi
You can find the user manual at http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0610357.pdf Cleaning instructions are on page 38. Please leave feedback if you find the answer helpful. Regards Kat.

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0610357.pdf

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description, I`d suggest it is the hot surface ignitor for the bake burner that is likely the problem.

Here's what you can try to verify if it's indeed the ignitor...if you're mechanically inclined. It'll look like this...




** FIRST unplug the range and turn off the gas to the appliance before attempting any service...safety first**

some model ranges have in use an upper broiler the same as the lower (bake) ignitor ( some do some don't, the complete model number already does confirm this...with only the bracket perhaps being slightly different ) one could swap the ignitor`s ( very carefully, they are very fragile and don`t like to be handled ) this will allow you to use the bake burner, but it will leave you without the broil function...until you can purchase another.

Here's a helpful link...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLxKoF16gac&feature=player_embedded#at=20

This will confirm or dismiss if the ignitor is at fault...99% of the time this is the case. Many people overlook the ignitor, especially if it "glows" since that gives the untrained person the impression it works...that is not the case however. (Ignitor may glow but not have sufficient amperage to open valve, or open the valve slightly, even intermittently...but not hot enough to ignite the gas).

As far as checking them you don't actually need a clamp on (though it is the preferred method) you can also ohm it out to test it as follows...


You should be able to find one at most brick & mortar appliance parts vendors or on-line depot's such as "repairclinic.com", "searspartsdirect.com" to name a couple.

You can ask for part number based on the model number for the bake & broil ignitor. The number I use in most applications (it's fairly universal and replaces both long and short ignitors)... is part #12400035.

I would still double check with your model number with the part`s professional`s if you're more comfortable with that.

Hope that help`s. Let me know if I can assist you further or if anything is not clear and good luck.

Thank`s for visiting "fixya" for your repair needs. Please take a moment to rate the assistance you received here and a brief testimony is also appreciated.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hi

Error code F1-E1 means that an error with the keypad has occurred. Usually it happens due to loose ribbon cable on the keypad or the electronic control assembly itself going bad. To resolve this issue first, disconnect the power to unit and then gain access to the back of the clock assembly (Electronic Range Control/ERC). Now unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC, it would be a flat wire approx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide and make sure that the cable is not broken and nothing is shorted on the keypad. After this is done insert the cable back and then plug the unit back to check. If the error is still there then the electronic control board should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Hi

Error code F5-E3 indicates that there is an issue with the door latch switch assembly; if the switch tests open then the door lock assembly should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Hello Everett,

The problem beleive it or not is that the bake ignitor is weak ,and it is not drawing the proper amprage to open the gas valve.If you have a amp meter access the wires to the bake ignitor(usually behind the storage drawer) and check for 3.3-3.6 amps when set to bake ignitor by clamping the meter around ONE wire wire of ignitor make sure only one wire,either one and not both.
if amp draw less than that replace bake ignitor. If you dont have amp meter take my word for it since in my 30 years appliance repair career i have when the ignitor comes on, that it's weak, to be the problem 100% of the time

This problem is commonly attributed to a defective Electronic Oven Control (EOC), or also referred to as an Electronic Range Control (ERC) board. This is the clock/timer assembly. The ovens on these ranges are controlled by the EOC, and if the control board fails, the oven igniters will not function. You will still be able to use the surface burners, however, as they are controlled by individual electrodes via a spark module. The following link explains how to access and replace MOST control boards: http://www.fixya.com/support/r3727366-replacing_control_kitchen_range A less likely cause would be two bad igniters in the oven. Each manifold (Bake and Broil) uses a separate igniter). As the igniters age from repeated use, they can become weak and no longer function properly. Just because they glow, does not mean they are good. If you are experiencing ignition problems, the following link explains a little theory about how these igniters work and how to replace one:


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575727-replacing_an_oven_igniter_on_a_gas_range


The burner manifolds in most ovens each use a glow bar or electrode type igniter with a gas safety valve to ignite. If the surface burners work, but the oven does not, the problem is usually not a gas related issue. If a SINGLE igniter is still working (i.e., the broiler still works), its more than likely not a control board issue, either.


NOTE: You CANNOT light the oven with a match because the manifold uses a safety valve that requires a certain current potential flowing through the igniter to open and allow gas flow. This is a designed safety feature that prevents free flowing gas from entering the oven cavity without ignition. Such a condition could potentially create an explosion hazard.

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices vary between these sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also offer helpful exploded view diagrams to help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. NOTE: It is common for the BAKE igniter to require replacement more often than the broiler, due to the frequency of use.

If you have any questions please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Page 17 of the manual on the link below will tell you how to unloxk the oven.

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0207095.pdf

You more than likely have a bad ignitor...and if you are getting a l;oud boom the you should also consider replacing the gas valve for the oven it should not be letting gas out until the ignition is hot.

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

This is an easy solution. I had the same thing happen to me. You call Sears or Kenmore, they schedule a service call, you pay $129.95, they order a part, you pay for the part, they come back out again, and then the problem goes away. They could choose to tell you how to clear this error but then they would not make $129.95 for the initial service call, $129.95 for a second service call, and however much for a replacement part that you may or may not really need.

the top of the back piece over the controls etc. should hinge up revealing fuses.
Make sure teh fuses are there, and that they aren't blown.