20 Most Recent Kenmore 79012 / 79014 / 79019 Gas Kitchen Range - Page 11 Questions & Answers

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

you have a defective temp control

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response. We take the time to answer your question. take the time to rate us.Thanks and good luck

The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. This video will walk you thru the correct procedure for testing an oven igniter. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

Hi, the oven igniter is glowing so that tells me the circuit is sound, the oven control is working, and the oven safety valve is ok. That means only one thing. Weak igniter. The igniter must draw 3.2 amps in order to open the safety bi-metal inside the valve. Bumping or tapping on the stove will make the oven light off. Solution replace the igniter. I have repair photos HERE

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

Hi, Before you go working too hard to get you oven to go intothe self clean mode(self destruct)....check out this tip...

Self Cleaning Oven Problem

,,
heatman101

" Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaningoption. Thanks for the info!!

You can get the manual on the link below.

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/owner_manuals/3670/KENMORE-Range-Electric-Gas-L0205184?brand_name_search=79074

Good luck

When you go to take the gave valve loose add some soapy water to the connection if you ain't sure.Watch for bubbles while taking her loose. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

If your talking about the ignitor in the oven, then you need to replace it. Even though the ignitor is glowing, it's not drawing enough amperage to open the safety valve (gas valve). This is a common problem and usually happens over time. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Yes you can definitely use iron cookware on this range without an issue. It is made for all types of cookware. Just make sure you do not drag the pan against the grates, but any cookware would hurt the grates if you did that.

You are definitely safe to use them.

Please make sure you rate my answer 4 thumbs up! Thanks so much for understanding, it would be a huge help to me. I would be forever grateful if you could do this for me. If you still have a question or concern about this problem please just respond / reply to my answer here before rating my answer.

Thanks
Tim

Hello,

Check your home's fuse box to ensure that you have not blown the fuse or tripped a circuit breaker that controls power to your kitchen. Reset or replace the fuse if needed.
Unplug the oven, and then plug it back in. Wait 30 seconds and try to turn on both the top burners and the oven's heating element.
Make sure all top burners and the oven are off. Lift up on each burner's heating element and pull it straight out. Do the same for the oven's heating element after you have removed any oven racks and heat plates. Clean off the contacts on all of the elements with a sponge and check all of the receptacles for debris that can prevent the elements from seating correctly.
Check the elements' contacts for pitting, scars, burns, corrosion, rust or bending while you dry them off with a towel. Replace any damaged heating elements and their corresponding elements on the oven.
Plug the heating elements for the top burners and the oven back into their respective receptacles. Turn each burner and the oven on to ensure that the elements are lighting.

Good luck in solving the problem.....

Hi
Yes the self-cleaning oven will automatically shut off depending on the time you set for the cycle to complete.Below are some more details about self cleaning process.
A self cleaning oven works by allowing the inside temperature to rise to a very high level. It will then stay at this temperature, usually about 1,000F degrees, for the period of time it is set to. This is generally about two hours. Some models allow you to program the time from one to three hours depending on how dirty your oven is.
A self cleaning oven works by allowing the inside temperature to rise to a very high level. It will then stay at this temperature, usually about 1,000F degrees, for the period of time it is set to. This is generally about two hours. Some models allow you to program the time from one to three hours depending on how dirty your oven is.
During this time of high temperatures dirt, spills, and grease is burned off. It is literally incinerated and turned into a white ash. The door locks automatically and cannot be opened. The door will stay locked shut until the oven has cooled down to a safe temperature. This complete cycle of heating up, cleaning, and cool down can take up to six hours

If this doesn't work for you, please comment and let me know, and I will be more than happy to assist you to further resolve your issue.
I will appreciate your feedback and positive rating

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
&^%^e$t

The E1- F5 error is a door lock error.

The control (TIMER) has likely failed in this instance - BUT...

Sometimes when you disconnect power to a range and reconnect it the electronic range control gets confused.
You should disconnect power again for 15 seconds and reconnect and see if that helps.

If it doesn't cure the E1- F5 error hold the bake button in until E0- F2 appears in the display.
This is the error for a stuck button on the keypad and is the way to clear the memory of the electronic range control.

Sometimes these work, but if the control has failed it won't make any difference.

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F2-E1 - Touch Pad (Keypad) Cable Unplugged -
Check the connection between the touch pad (keypad) and control board (clock) to make sure it is secure.
Select the 'cancel' function and wait 60 seconds.
If error code reappears then replace the touch pad, or touch pad and control board (clock) if all one assembly.

It appears your timer/clock has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.


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F2-E0 - Shorted Touch Pad (Keypad) - Check the connection between the touch pad (keypad) and control board (clock) to make sure it is secure.
Select the 'cancel' function and wait 60 seconds.
If error code reappears then replace the touch pad, or touch pad and control board (clock) if all one assembly.

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F90 Maximum oven door unlock time exceeded.
F91 Maximum oven door unlock attempts exceeded.
F92 Maximum oven door open time exceeded.
F93 Maximum oven door lock time exceeded.
F94 Maximum oven door lock attempts exceeded.


1. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Check the wiring between EOC & Lock Motor Micro Switch.

2. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Replace the Motor Door Latch assembly if necessary.

3. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Check for binding of the Latch Cam, Lock Motor Rod & Lock Motor Cam.

4. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Check to see if Lock Motor Coil is open. If open, replace Lock Motor Assembly.

5. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Lock Motor continuously runs - if Micro Switch is open, replace Lock Motor Assembly.

6. (F92, 93 & 94) Check oven door Light Switch - if open, replace Switch.

7. If all situations above do not solve problem, replace EOC.


F90 is a door lock code, Try this...
unplug the range.
wait 1 minute.
turn the range back on,
then while holding in on the oven door.
start another self clean.
wait 2 minutes.
then cancel the self clean.

do not release the door until the door lock light goes out.


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