20 Most Recent Kenmore 96422 / 96424 / 96429 Electric Kitchen Range - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Hey D, f1 can be one of three problems. A stuck key pad,test by pressing all the buttons to see if they all make noise, if one doesn't then that's the stuck one. A bad oven temperature sensor, if it's gone bad it will not send the proper temp reading to the control board. Or it could be a bad control board itself. If nothing is working/changing mode it's most likely the stuck keypad. If you're not comfortable working with electrical components I suggest calling your local repair company to check it out. Hope that helps.

Gas stoves are easy, but can be dangerous to try and fix for yourself. If you go to Googles a search on your make and model, you may end up at getting the manual. Sears closed down its stores, and they may have a web site where you can find the manual. Kenmore is a Sears brand, but the stove is made by one of many companies that made appliances for Sears, so careful web searching may help you. I did find your manual by using Google on a simple search, it was the first thing to come up. It looks like you are in Canada by the place i found the manual. Fixya did not let me attach the PDF, but you can see the image I attached of the web search I did. It shows what the manual will look like when you find the link to download it.

In some Kenmore ranges, they wired a thermal fuse in series with the temperature sensor. And sometimes during a self-clean cycle, the fuse will open up. And this makes the EOC (Electronic Oven Control) think that the oven is extremely hot, so it locks the door and turns on the cooling fan. To fix the problem, you have to locate and replace the thermal fuse. Note: In some other ranges, if the temperature sensor goes bad (opens up), you will get the same result. You can test the temp sensor with an ohmmeter. At room temperature, the resistance should be around 1100 ohms. If it's FAR from that, then you have a bad temp sensor.

First try unplugging your range (or turn off your house circuit breaker to the range), and wait at least 15 seconds. Then plug it back in (or turn on your circuit breaker HARD). Wait 15 seconds more, and then check your door. With luck, your oven door hould be unlocked. If not, then you will probably need to call a qualified, experienced appliance repairman.

Sounds like you either have a bad neutral power connection, or else a bad EOC (Electronic Oven Control).

You may have an open neutral (center) wire in your 220V (or 240V) wall outlet (or where the wires go into your range). Your Electronic Oven Control (EOC) and light bulbs operate off of 120V, which it gets from one leg of your 240V outlet to neutral. You surface elements don't use the EOC, but are directly connected (when on) to both legs of your 240V Power. So unplug your range, and remove the access panel to your electrical connections at the bottom back of your range. Make sure the center screw that the white wire is connected to is tight. If that's okay, then the problem is probably in your electrical wall outlet, and you should contact an electrician to check it and fix it.

You have 3 likely causes (in order of likeliness of happening): 1. The bake element burned out. 2. A thermal fuse on the back of the oven cavity has opened up. This is most common cause IF your oven stopped working after you ran a self-clean cycle. 3. You Electronic Oven Control (EOC) is bad.

There should be a button or key on the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) that is labelled "Options". When you press it, you can select several options. When you get to the option or choice you want, press tne Start key to accept your choice. The choices you have are as follows: 1. Select temperature in Farenheit. <-- This is what you want! 2. Select temperature in Centigrade (or Celsius). 3. Turn tones on. 4. Turn tones off. 5. ? 6. ? 7. Turn event tones on. 8. Turn event tones off. 9. Adjust temperature offset (don't play with this!)

From memory, they are heat sensors. If there is nothing on the element, it wont allow it to get to full heat.??

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPC1YgOi2cM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndQU7RtqfRw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RA3Sj0QpwhY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QzhsKBTLrU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iiffhw53-D0 https://www.repairclinic.com/Video/Video-Landing/2936-13/Surface-Element-Not-Working-Electric-Range-Troubleshooting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ihqo1QyYwaQ

press and hold the "Stop/Clear" button for three seconds

If the heating element will fit into the plug socket, the voltage etc. should work out. Same thing if it's wired in.

Unfortunately it'll have to be replaced, buy a used one from a local appliance shop or on eBay, just search for your make/model number & "touch pad", they're not too much and fairly easy to change!

Possible parts for sale on eBay. Sears sold Kenmore ranges, so that is another web site to search if you know how to use https://www.google.com https://www.ebay.com/bhp/kenmore-stove-parts

I would definitely have an electrician come out and check your wiring, fuse box, etc.

I'm including a link to address this if the simple fix I have doesn't work, this link will lead you to other solutions. See the Pictures and click the link if necessary. Thanks and Have a Great Evening! https://homeguides.sfgate.com/clear-oven-lock-mechanism-kenmore-stove-71754.html

If it has a thermal fuse, it would be located on back wall of unit behind metal panel.

Some have thermal fuses and some don’t. Need model #

Ya there is there are fuses in the Kenmore mark 1 . It's an older stove and there located above the knobs to turn burners on if you pop the top open

This could be caused by 1 of 3 things. A weak igniter: test the resistance. A weak temperature sensor: test the resistance and/or the main board. I hope this helps.