20 Most Recent Amana ALG331RAW Gas Dryer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

replace all 3 gas coils

If the ignitor is working properly, it will glow orange. If the gas supply is present, then I would agree with you that the ignitor is the most likely the problem. Hope this helped and best wishes.

HI, the timer is defective. the heating process can be affected if the timer isn't functioning correctly. replace this failed timer asap. this will fix the issue.

Check the following to address this issue


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php Go to this site and put in your model number. The picture I found does not fit your description.

Probably the heater element. You need to pull the back of teh machine off and check the heating element for continuity. If its open then its shot.
These are parts that normally go bad.
Check on ebay these can be had for less than 50.00

REMOVE YOUR ACCESS PANEL AND SEE IF YOU HAVE A BROKEN BELT IF NOT REPOST. ACCESS PANEL LOOKS LIKE IT COMES OF BY 2 SCREWS AND RAISING IT UP AND OFF.

these dryers have wheel like drum supports and the bronze bearing inside them will wear out causing noise. once you get the drum out, look at the belt idler pulley also it too has a bearing and either one can cause the noise.
if you can get inside the unit, and the bearings dont look worn/wobbly, then you may be able to just lubricate them and it should work for another year or two. if you can get new rollers and idler that would be best and should only cost about 15-20 bucks each.

This condition is normally caused by a faulty cycling thermostat. Movement of the timer in the auto-dry mode is controlled by the cycling thermostat. Movement of the the timer in the time-dry mode is not controlled by the cycling thermostat, but by the timer motor.
Below is a link directing you to an enlarged image of the thermostat. You will also find other pages within the website with exploded view diagrams and disassembly procedures, prices and shipping information.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=601359&PPStack=1

Tip: Always provide the complete information provided on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the user’s manual. This will help you acquire a more accurate and expeditious response to your complaint.


If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

Here is the link for the owner's manual, but it doesn't look like much help. Just cut and paste on the address bar of your browser. http://shop.amana.com/assets/pdfs/literature/40125301.PDF
Once you get through looking over the manual, here is how you fix your dryer:

1. Unplug the power plug, disconnect the gas line, and vent hose, and pull out where you can access all sides.
2. Take a putty knife and insert it between the top and the cabinet at the front corners to release the spring clips.
3. Flip the top toward the back making sure the wiring harness to the timer and controls does not get pulled.
4. Take off the access panel toward the bottom of the cabinet, push the belt tensioner away from the belt, and pull the belt off of the motor pulley.
5. Lift the drum out of the cabinet, clean and re-grease the ball and socket at the back of the drum, clean off the surface where the belt rides with steel wool.
6. If the idle rollers turn freely, clean the lint off of the surfaces, put the new belt on the drum and lower back into place.
7. Put the belt back on the motor pulley, put the bottom cover back on, flip the lid closed, reconnect the gas, vent hose, and plug in.

If you found this solution helpful, please don't forget to rank it.

Good Afternoon,
Lubricating would be just a temporary fix. You need to replace the drum rollers. If you think you can do it yourself I'll try to walk you through it. Once the rollers are worn they start squeaking and squealing at a very high pitch. This happens because the roller bushing spinning on the shaft has dried out from the heat. The weight of the clothes in the dryer plus the drum itself rests totally upon these rollers. If you decide to install new rollers clean up the shaft with lite emery cloth then wipe clean. Next apply "High Heat" Lithium Grease to the shaft and inside the new roller bushing, they will last 2 to 3 times longer. Let me know if you need guidance if you attempt to change the rollers yourself.
Have a great day!

Jeff, what you are describing is a drive motor that is locked up. The only cure for this is to replace the motor. This is probably the most difficult repair to perform on a dryer. You will need to have a lot of patience if you choose to proceed.

I looked up the motor for you, it's a part number 511629P and it lists for ~$145.00. That's alot of clams for a motor! And I presume this unit has some years on it, right? Which means that if you replace the motor, there's a good chance that another component will fail soon.

I'm not trying to dissuade you from a repair, I'm just mentioning possible options. But, if you want an opinion on this, mine would be to replace the dryer. I know this isn't what you wanted to hear, but I hope it helps you decide what to do.

If you choose to repair, write back and I'll do my best to walk you through the procedure.

sounds as if the coils atop the gas valve have gone bad, no longer opening the gas after initial lighting,, order and replace them (part number 279834.. yo can aceesthem by removing the front lower panel and using a stubby phillips screwdriver, easy repair for about $25

look under the fornt panel 2 5/16 screws holding it on

Sounds like the timer is going bad and it needs to be replaced. The time is located behind the knobs.
IF my answer has satisfied you please rate. Thank you

generic instructions.... remove screws through lower panel bottom lip, panel lifts straight up and out.
........................or.....................
Use a putty knife to release the front clips (one near each front corner) and pop
the top to view belt.

Need model # for exact instructions

You may have a leg of power out. First turn off the breakers, then back on to insure a good reset. Then check the wiring at the receptacle, then the plug, then the wiring to the back of the dryer. This may be the problem. Have you cleaned the lint tray?

You need a coil kit for the valve.