Top 20 GE WVSR1060A Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

Load size switch bad, or you selected wrong size load.

Bearings are gone

if it sounds like an airplane taking off the main bearings are gone ,no good no moree dump it

It is most likely the timer, you can buy the timer here: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Timer/WH12X10121/824430 or copy and paste the timers model number to ebay to see if you can get one cheaper there.

it could be your timer on the machine has gone out. If you have moved the washer and now you are experencing the problem there could be a reset switch that needs to be checked. On my top loader mine was doing the same thing after moving it, tipping it over to carry can get it off level, check your owners manuel . If the timer is out that can cause it to not cycle and not agitate or spin. Check the leveling issue before ordering a timer. Good luck

Under the agitator is a drive block (number 310 as shown here). The agitator snaps on to it. Inside it is splines. Since the drive bell is plastic them splines will wear smooth and as a result she won't agitate. Grab hold of the neck of the agitator and snatch it off OR loop a belt under the agitator and twist a wooden handle around till the agitator releases. Then remove the drive bell and replace that puppy.


Service manual, video and more HERE If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Here is a video to show you how to open the washer.

hello there





Although there are a few leaks common to all brands, most brands have leaks that are peculiar to their design. GE, Whirlpool, Maytag, and others all have common and well-known leak areas. After reading this section, see the chapter about specific brands for details.
A common "leak" zone is not a leak at all; the wall drain backs up and overflows onto the floor. This is commonly misdiagnosed as a leak. It can be difficult to diagnose; the problem may be intermittent. Depending on how badly the drain is clogged, there may be a little water or a lot, or it may only overflow every second or third load. While diagnosing a leak, do not be too quick to write this diagnosis off.
If you suspect that your drain is backing up, but you can't quite ever be there at the right time to observe the overflow, try this: wrap some toilet paper around the drain hose just above the wall drain pipe. If it backs up, the paper will get wet. Even if you're not there when it happens and the paper dries out, it will have crinkled up, and you'll know your drain's backing up.
If it isn't the drain, run the machine with a full load. Without moving the machine, get right down on the floor and look under the machine with a flashlight. Try to find the general area where water is dripping to the floor; front or back of the machine, left or right side.
Open the cabinet and look for mineral or soap deposits where there shouldn't be any.

Trace the deposits in the natural direction of waterflow (against gravity or centrifugal force) back to the source of the leak. Fill the machine again and run it through a cycle or two. Be patient; use your eyes and your brains. There is no magic, easy way to detect a leak.
The usual places are:
WATER VALVE: The guts of the fill solenoid valve sometimes will corrode. You may see water leaking from, or rust on the top of the solenoid. (See figure G-7A) Since the valves only open during a fill cycle, this may appear as an intermittent leak. The solution is to replace the valve.
PUMP: Usually from around the pulley seal. Some washer pumps have a hole that allows water to weep out when the seal starts to go bad. The solution is to replace or rebuild the pump.
BLEACH DISPENSERS: Bleach is VERY hard on plastic parts. If the bleach dispenser gets old and brittle, it can crack or break off, and the flush water can leak out.

Figure G-7A: Leaky Water Solenoid Valve

GE Answer Center®
1-800-626-2005
Monday - Friday: 8 a.m. - 10 p.m. ET
Saturday: 8 a.m. - 7 p.m. ET
Closed Sunday.
Be sure to have model# and serial# available before calling.

GE Answer Center®
1-800-626-2005
Monday - Friday: 8 a.m. - 10 p.m. ET
Saturday: 8 a.m. - 7 p.m. ET
Closed Sunday.
Be sure to check the MODEL # and SERIAL # on your machine BEFORE CALLING. Good luck

Hi,
If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4617986-washing_machine_not_pump_or_spin

If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing Machine not draining and or not spinning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4784376-front_load_washing_machine_not_draining

heatman101

This is a common failure. The teeth on the knob have worn off. If you pull the knob out you will see a small clip that can be pulled off this will release the knob. Usually both pieces of the knob need to be replaced. For diagrams and illustrations enter your model # at www.appliancehelponline.com

I think it might be the lid switch. as you can see it can fail mechanically and electrically. To get to the lid switch you remove the front panel firstthen you can remove the top and access the slid switch.
Use this training manual If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4617986-washing_machine_not_pump_or_spin

If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4784376-front_load_washing_machine_not_draining

heatman101

Most likely the transmission seal.
This is not too much to have repaired.
Look at about 4 hours labor plus parts of $25 or so.
It will vary on your part of the country.

Thanks!!
2

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you with that...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4617986-washing_machine_not_pump_or_spin

heatman101

If there is a bolt to loosen under the dispenser remove it and see if you can pull up the entire agiator. If so, the drive hub is the problem and needs replacement.

There must be two vents going into the interior of the dryer, one is the intake (where the hot air comes from), the other is the outtake (where the lint trap must be). Locate the two vents and see if one of them has anything removable near it (or if the vent itself has finger holes or something that you can grab and pull or slide it open).