20 Most Recent GE WDSR2080D Top Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Can't do anything about the one that's smoking. As with most electrical stuff, once you let the smoke out it no longer works.

Mine had the same original problem. Would fill, but would not agitate. It just sat there with a tub full of water and clothes.

I scoured the internet, and came to the conclusion that it was either:
The timer (unlikely, according to most posts I read), or
The motor. The motor in these is a reversing motor - one direction for spin, the other for agitate.
If half the motor quits working, you'd get spin but no agitate or vice-versa.

I took the motor out to take it and have it bench-tested to be sure before I spend the money on a non-returnable new motor. Unfortunately, no one here can (or will) bench-test the motor.

In the meantime, my wife called the retailer where we bought the machine and asked if they could test the motor. They said there was no need - that the control board in the machine probably just needed to be reset.

So far, I have taken off the front panel, taken off the control panel, removed the top of the machine, removed the ring on the top of the tub. Removed the agitator. Removed the four bungee-cord things that keep the machine from rolling over or something. Removed the bell thingy under the agitator. Removed the big nut under that to be able to remove the tub. Removed a plate on the top of the machine so that there is room to remove the tub. Removed the tub. Removed the big tub by lifting it to disconnect the shock absorbers, and disconnecting the drain hose and the air tube that controls the fill level. Tilted out and removed the big tub with the motor frame attached to the bottom. Removed the pulley, belt and motor frame. And removed the motor from the frame. All just to get the motor out to take it to the shop. Who would not test it.

But I digress.

The procedure to reset the control board is this:

1) Unplug the washer.
2) Wait 30 seconds or more. (This allows all capacitors to discharge and make the "computer" forget everything.)
3) Plug the machine in.
4) Open and close the lid 10 times. (The magnets in the lid are the only method you have to "talk" to the "computer.")
5) Run the machine.

It sounded stupid. It sounded like a Monty Python skit, but I did this. I reassembled the machine, and did the reset procedure. The machine worked just fine. Filled, agitated, drained, rinsed, did the spin cycle. Just like a wash machine should.

Makes me wonder about $300 repair bills.

then you need to look at the pressure switch ,,,the pipe to it ?? has no holes on it ?? or you have a doggy water valve?????

Washers start in fill mode as it requires the level of water set to start the agitator mode.. If your machine goes immediately to agitate then I would think that the agitator control module is failed and needs replacement. have an appliance electrician check it out.

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If you can't loosen the nut, you can break it with a hammer and a metal chisel. Tub nut is cheap. Grease on clothes = new transmission time.
By the way, after you remove the inner tub,.... you have to take the entire outer tub assembly out of the washer, flip it upside down, remove the yoke that holds the motor onto the outer tub, and pull the transmission out through the bottom of the outer tub.

Could be a pinched hose going from pressure switch to the tub

Open the loading door, place your hand on top of the agitator and turn clockwise then counter clockwise. If agitator turns freely in both directions and tub sits motionless either your agitator or the coupling that holds it to the transmission will need replaced. Usually it is the coupling but it's easy to tell by removing the agitator and performing same turning procedure on it. If it spins freely it is no good.

To remove the agitator firmly grasp the neck of it with both hands and yank straight up. Inspect the inside of the agitator, the ribs inside can take quite a beating but once they are badly flattened or in some cases nearly completely shaved away then it will have to be replaced. Last I knew this was the style GE now recommends for that machine: WH43X139 . If you see signs of oil say, "Uh-oh." But continue anyway all is not lost.

Next you need to see if the coupler will spin (the most likely cause.) If it spins freely say, "Yea!" because that's one of the cheapest easiest repairs on this machine. That should be a 7/16 bolt that will need to be removed. I use a 1/4" ratchet and socket (No extension) or box end wrench and they usually give no trouble. But they are usually rusty so don't mess around with it. With your right hand apply firm downward pressure on top of the ratchet with the handle at nine oclock. Give it a nice firm bump with your left hand and it should break loose and usually spins right out. If it crumbles under the socket you'll have to use vice grips; no worries, a new bolt will come with part: WH49X10042. With nothing to hold it the coupling will slide right off. If removing because it spun, toss it in the trash, it is not recyclable.

Now you can see the top of your washer's transmission--remember the "Uh-oh?" If you saw a dark film of oil it came from here. But even if you didn't see oil reach down and grasp the splined part and see if it will wiggle back and forth. There should be no wiggle. If you look at the spline part you will see it goes into a slightly larger shaft. Right where it goes in there is a gasket that is not replaceable. If there is oil around it, or if you can see a gap in it, or if the spliny part wiggles side to side the transmission is shot. You can buy them NEW on ebay for $150 and less usually. Part number is: WH38X10002. It is not an easy job but if you've got tools and patience there is no reason i couldn't walk you through it.

But let's say your transmission looks fine and you just want to put that coupler back on and be done with it. Before replacing the coupler it is very important to clean the splines (little grooves) of the part it fits over really well. Each groove will have a plastic spline from the old coupler embedded in it. A wire brush or pocket screwdriver works well; they come out easy just make sure you get them all. Once you are satisfied the splines are nice and clean cover them with a thin layer of petroleum jelly. Place the new coupler on top and give it a twist to feel the splines line up then push down to seat it. Sometimes they seat pretty easy, sometimes not. Sometimes you have to screw in the bolt to get it that last little bit. I've even had to use a succession of longer to shorter bolts to seat them. Regardless, the cleaner you get the splines on the transmission the easier it will be to seat the coupler into place. Tighten the bolt by reversing the procedure to loosen. Place left hand firmly over the ratchet or wrench with handle at three oclock and snug it up then bump it good and hard with your right hand a couple of times. Clean any debris on the bottom of the tub now. Then pick up the agitator and place it over the coupler, but first notice the coupler has twin grooves evenly spaced along it's sides. Likewise the agitator has ridges that fit into the grooves of the coupler. Under each fin of the agitator is a set of ridges, so line a fin of the agitator up with the grooves of the coupler and try to seat the agitator. You will meet resistance if they aren't lined up so just keep trying it will practically fall into place when it's right. You will know when it is seated properly but give it a slight tug upwards just to verify, if it stays in place you are done.

The usual culprit for a washer that will not stop filling is the pressure switch. The switch is located inside the operator console behind the load size, or water level knob (this knob has different names based on the washer model). Before assuming the pressure is defective, however, inspect the pressure switch and ensure the small plastic air hose is still attached to it. It is common for this small air hose to come loose or develop small cracks or breaks. Without the hose installed, the switch cannot detect the appropriate pressure in the wash tub and will not shut off. The result: as washer that continually fills and will overflow. What appears to be a significant problem may only be a loose hose and few minutes of your time. Please inspect the switch, check the entire length of the hose for cracks and make sure the electrical connection(s) are intact and not corroded, then get back to me. I hope this helps you.

PS Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before servicing!